tmarsh

Yes, further up on this page.

Update- I checked in forscan from my above post for the FCIM. 7A7-01-02 was correct, xxxx-x2xx-xxxx. Confused, as it wasn’t working and everything else is correct in other modules. I changed the 2 to a 0 which is backwards from what the guy said. And it worked! I now have the menu options back. Tested, set to auto for climate and seats and it is working. For the record, it didn’t matter what I left the heat on when I got out, auto or manual. The seats and climate did not turn on until I pushed the start button when I got in.

Ahh yes I do remember a TSB now that you say that. Did some quick digging now that I have time. FCIM 7A7-01-02 xxxx-xXxx-xxxx needs to be changed from 0 to 2. I’ll give it a go later.

Tried the IPC config. Disabled and enabled all of these and no change.

Hey guys. I thought j had asked this somewhere awhile back, but can’t find it if I did. I starting to use the remote start here in MI and remembering a problem I have. When using remote start, the climate control doesn’t run. Heated seats don’t turn on. I can enter the remote start menu and change duration and check system on or off, but climate control and seats are grayed out. And I get nothing but a warm engine, frozen windshield, and cold ass when I get in after 15 minutes. Anyone know the location in forscan?

Hey guys. I have code P1450 from the PCM on my 2015. “Failure to bleed up fuel tank vacuum”. And very hard to start after filling up with fuel. I used forscan to check that the purge valve on top of the engine is operating, and also the tank vent solenoid in the evap canister. The solenoid is opening and closing. The purge valve, I removed and with no power I cannot blow through it. With 12v applied I can blow through. But, the other piece attached to the purge valve, with that attached I can only blow a very small amount through before the flapper inside shuts. Is there a common fix here? Or something I can check before taking to dealer?

No info yet. I plugged in and checked the programming and it had been changed back to the original 2015 ABD. So I changed it back to that of the MkX where I know it worked great. Temps lowered some, but still I feel nothing on the seat back. Noticable difference on the bottom though it gets colder quicker, and fan speed is noticeably higher. My next step is to pull up the upholstery and make sure everything is connected going into the seat. I’ve been on vacation so haven’t done much.

Here is my readings after work yesterday. 92* outside, over 100* in the car for sure after sitting in the direct sun all day. Took screenshot 15min into the drive. I seem to remember last summer my backs were somewhat close to the bottoms. And could actually be felt.

Yes! That is what I was looking for! Thank you. I thought we had talked about it, but I thought it was through PM. I’ll read through that again later. I do have a spare assembly for the seat back I had ordered awhile ago off ebay for cheap. It does work. And if I remember right even out of the seat, plugged into the SCME, the temperatures were close to the one in the seat with the ductwork. Off your notes: 1. This isn’t the case. I can feel the intake tube pulling in, and have lukewarm air coming from the exhaust tube(which also tells me the TED isn’t receiving much power. The air Would be warmer if it was). I don’t have kids, so the backs of my seats don’t get kicked or anything. So they shouldn’t be broken! 2. Before reading through our other thread, I believe that’s what I did with a little extra tweaking to some of the data I found elsewhere? I’ll read through it. 3. I took a reading this morning. Not really acccurate as it was 65 outside and the interior was also cool, but still the backs are higher. And the entire passenger seat is hotter which is weird because it was running without an occupant. Here are the numbers from this morning. 90* here today so when I leave work I’ll get another.

Bringing this back to life here. I noticed the other day my seat backs stopped cooling again. I have the full kit for the intake and exhaust, and had had them cooling almost as good as the seat bottoms. I had made forscan changes to the SCME, which GREATLY improved the cooling of the seat backs to almost the same temperature as the bottoms. With forscan, you can actually choose to read live data from the SCME (seat climate module E) including the fan speed and temperature of the TEDs. My seat bottoms will cool off to around 65*, and before the seat backs would not be far behind at roughly 68*. They worked great. And obviously I never shared that information with you guys, my bad. I should have, because now I need it again myself. I had made forscan changes in other areas recently, jacked it up, and had to reload the ABD back to stock. Which completely killed my seatbacks again. Im noticing now with the forscan app, the seat back TEDs don't get any cooler than 85* almost like they aren't even functioning anymore, like maybe Ford finally gave up on the cooled seats and turned off the setback TED in their latest ABD update?? Calling Omar302, lets figure this out. I had a few ideas I might look into tomorrow. First. Ive been searching like crazy to find the data for the SCME that I changed to raise fan speed and lower the TED temp. It wasn't something I screwed with on my own, I definitely had a spreadsheet in front of me and thought I saved it on my computer but didn't.. I want to say it was in an F-150 or Explorer forum. Ill share when/if I find it. Second. The seat bottom works very well. If i remember right, it's fan and TED are larger than the seat back fan and TED. Meaning its more powerful. I thought about taking the passenger seat bottom and testing it in the driver seat back to see if it improves after finding the SCME programming info. Or, swapping the connectors from back to bottom, and bottom to back. I myself care more about the cold from the seat back than the bottom. And they both work the same on heat mode, so why not? Third. I had thought about pulling the two pins from the seat back TED (GY/VT and WH/VT), and powering it separately from say the 12v outlet, with a PWM knob to control current and temperature, while monitoring temperature with the forscan app. This will most likely throw a DTC for it being disconnected, and also a DTC for out of temperature range if I can get it cooler than normal by supplying more current.. Worth a try under supervision I think. Having messed around with TEDs for other projects, I know they can get much hotter/colder than this. These are being held back quite a bit. On heat mode, forscan shows both TEDS reaching the same temperature (I forget what number, something in the mid 100s) so it can do it. The SCME is not supplying the same current to the back as the bottom in cool mode.

Yes, exactly. I no longer have the ability to tell the climate control and seats what to do during remote start. What is annoying, is now they do nothing. Even with auto as the last setting when I turn off the ignition, when I remote start the climate control doesn't turn on at all. It won't let me load a picture, but its on the left screen in settings>vehicle>remote start> and the options for climate control and seats are greyed out.

Question guys. I haven’t done any forscan mods in awhile, but I just noticed this. Yesterday I drove to work with the windows down, so climate control off. Remote started before leaving work to have the AC cool it down. Got in the car and the climate control was off. Now I usually have it set in the IPC menu to have the climate control and climate seats on “auto” rather than “last setting” during remote start. Went to change it back, and it’s greyed out in the menu. Anyone know where to re enable it?

I thought this too, not the case. The BdyCM controls voltage to the turn signal, there is no inner workings to the headlight assembly. The parking light wire in the headlight connector is only for the side marker. The turn wire goes straight through to the turn signal bulb to supply it with the two voltages for marker and turn.

I looked into this, but found out that the trailer light module is not there. According to the service manual, the trailer light module is located in the passenger rear quarter panel, above the cargo area light. I looked, all the wiring is there, but not the module. I didn't look into getting one, I had already wired in my own trailer light wiring to the factory plug location so wasn't too concerned about it. But since the rest of it is there, if you plug in the module I don't see why it wouldn't work without any extra programming.

Thanks for that one Omar. Just what I needed for my new switchback signature bezels to work like switchbacks. Because the front turn signals are 2-wire instead of 3-wire, any time that bulb was on (even in marker/dim) it would cause the switchbacks to be amber. ] It also looks better this way with the headlights and my new foglights on, without the turn signal on. Will post pics later.