Edgingage

I believe having seen that type of visors on Japanese vehicles. Maybe check with a Toyota dealer (for some reason that make is what comes to mind...) If I see them again I'm going to post the make here. If I can reach the owner I'll ask and post.

Hello Todd: Thank you VERY MUCH for all your helpful answers. I almost kindly ask akirby which tool he'd suggest for me buying to specifically test coolant dilution (I don't have any tools to test coolants). Todd, thanks again: the dealer refilled it with fluorescent green (C)VC-5. According to the info provided in another thread (thank you folks), later confirmed by Ford Canada, green VC-5 is not compatible with any Edge model. That's why the dealer went ahead and replaced it again at their expense; this time with the correct (C)VC-13DL-G. Again, thank you very much.

First of all, I really thank you all for your concerns, advise and opinions. I'm going to explain what my real concern is: In another thread, I asked for advise regarding a wrong coolant "my" dealer put in. After quite a few emails back and forth, and Ford Canada involved, the dealer agreed to put the correct coolant at their expense (it was their mistake). Now, when that happened I wasn't sure (I didn't know) the type, the procedure, and not even the great importance of the correct coolant AND the correct mix (I learned those things after I posted my question in this great forum). Because if the dealer got it wrong several times (by their standard procedure) I thought it shouldn't be that important. But THANKS to you folks I learned a lot about coolant (still learning) and got the strength to put up a battle with the dealer that I "won" (not really). So, according to all the valuable info I've been getting here since that dealer-coolant event, I figured out that the dealer got it wrong four (4) times at once: how is it possible that: 1- they refilled using the wrong coolant (I could get it wrong; but how come the dealer can get that wrong?) 2- they refilled with only one 4qts-jug of concentrated coolant (do the math: 4 qts of coolant diluted in 8 qts of water is only a 33/67 coolant/water dilution) 3- they did only one (1) drain and then refilled it with the above mentioned (4 qts of concentrate + water to fill up the 11.7qts system) 4- they used tap water; yes, tap water to dilute and refill. So, the above is their SOP (Standard Operating Procedure). Of course I don't know how many water pumps have gone bad around here over the years; I have no access to those records... Now the real why I was thinking to add more concentrated coolant (hence my original question): When they finally refilled with the correct coolant, they told me they "did the process three times". Do you folks know which "process", how they did it? Me neither. I can only assume that they did it wrongly once again because that's their SOP. So this time, for the whole three-times "process", they used only three (3) jugs of 4-qts factory pre-diluted coolant. Great! (you would think) But I'm not really sure. Why: - what did they refill it with after the first two times they drained it? Tap water only? Or 1 jug of prediluted coolant + tap water in the first two refills? I don't know (they didn't want to describe what/how they did it) - did they drain and refill with tap water twice and then drain and did the final refill with 3 jugs of factory prediluted coolant? That may be great; I just don't know. And... what about the tap water trapped in the system after they drained the third time (IF so they really did it three times; I don't know). They normally drain and refill only once as per their SOP. In summary (and really sorry for my rant), I don't really know what proportion/dilution ended up in my cooling system. The best I can assume is that it ended up with almost 3 jugs of factory prediluted coolant to complete the 11.7 qts of total volume with the tap water trapped in the system. That's why I wanted to know how beneficial will be to add more concentrated coolant to the system. I'm thinking to remove the mix of prediluted coolant with trapped tap water from the coolant bottle, and then add the same amount of concentrated coolant in the bottle (several times) until the whole jug of concentrated coolant is in. I think it'll be a little bit better than what is right now in the cooling system. What do you folks think? After all the above details, if you think what it's currently in my coolant system is good enough to leave like that, just let me know by all means, please. Again, really sorry for my ranting frustration (with "my" dealer ) I think I also asked in some other thread if anybody knows the approximate volume remaining trapped in system after a drain. Thank you all for your great advise and opinions; I really appreciate them all. Sorry again for my lengthy writing.

Thank you Handfiler!

Hey folks: Is there any harm to the cooling system to run it all in only concentrated antifreeze/coolant, without any water dilution? Water is an oxidant (corrosive) per se. Coolant/antifreeze has also anti-corrosive additives. I was thinking that the less water and the more concentration of anti-corrosive additives per total volume in the cooling system the more protected the system would be. I know it'll cost a little bit more money (around 30% more), but would this better protect the system against failures, particularly better protection against water pump failure? Your opinions and advise are always very welcome, please. Thanks in advance.

Hello Znow and all Thanks for all your answers! I have the Canadian version CTek It has all the same smart features, except it's way cheaper than a CTek here (CAD $68.99). Same thing with the BA7: I have the Canadian version: it has all the exact same functions with the exact same software and hardware configuration except its casing looks different, and a little cheaper (CAD $62.99). Charger pictures attached. And I have one (hopefully last) dummy question about work with batteries: I've always read that we cannot disconnect/remove/replace the battery without a tender to keep the current/power to avoid/prevent computers/system from resetting and then having to get everything reconfigured again. Questions: - Is this true? - What memory settings exactly do we risk losing and having to reconfigure again if we don't use a tender to remove/replace/disconnect the battery? Radio "pre-sets"? - If we risk losing some memory pre-sets (other than radio), then we need to use a charger/tender to keep the current going in the car. Then, I would like to know what the order of steps is to connect and disconnect things (charger/tender, battery terminals/cables, other accessories?). For example, connecting the charger before disconnecting the battery: does it not double up the current (12V battery + 13V charger) in the car now that both (battery + charger) are still connected together before the battery cable (positive or negative?) gets disconnected? I have lots of doubts myself about the proper steps and order to connect/disconnect/reconnect charger and battery in the car. Sorry for my ignorance... The reason for my question is because, as you can see, I think I bought the tools I need to change the battery myself. However, yes, my battery was just changed by the dealer (for the above reasons I was chicken to do it myself) but I still plan to add some accessories and eventually I'll have to disconnect and reconnect the battery again. I just would like to make sure about the proper steps. And yes, I've seen quite a few YT videos, but some people disconnect the positive first, other ones disconnect the negative first, some people reconnect the negative first, other ones reconnect the positive first, ...and I don't know who is right or wrong, or maybe the disconnect/reconnect order doesn't matter? That's why I would like to ask in here instead of following who knows who's YT video is correct... Hope you folks wouldn't mind my questions. Thanks again for all your advice. It's ALWAYS greatly appreciated.

Hi folks: A few years ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W kindly posted a chart showing how the water boiling point increases as the percentage of coolant in water increases (see chart below, please). I know folks down south are more interested in the effects of the high temperature, but some folks up north are also interested in the effect of the low temperature . The amount of coolant/antifreeze in water is directly proportional to the water boiling point (the higher the amount of coolant in water, the higher the boiling point of the mixture), and also inversely proportional to the water freezing point (the higher the amount of antifreeze in water, the lower the freezing point of the mixture). I wonder if somebody can give us a reference to a similar chart about Freezing point of water / antifreeze mixture. Thanks in advance.

Coolant repaced by dealer at their courtesy. Thank you very much folks for your valuable info.

No, the dealer didn't reset the BMS, nothing; upon request this time they sat the cable connections all the way down the posts and sprayed some lube on top; I still see the greenish corrosion deposits on the connections... Good enough I guess. Znow, if you're not sure, with all respect I'll then take your advise on the side of caution... I wouldn't want to use my vehicle as a guinea pig lol. Do I REALLY need TO HAVE the ignition on?.. Also, when you say "make sure to leave the ignition on (engine off) for the duration", do you mean: - not accessory on, but ignition on (with all those dash lights and chimes on?) - for the duration: I usually leave the charger overnight, is it OK to leave the ignition on overnight for the reset purpose? I've heard/read that having the keyfob out of reach for more than 8 hours will reset the BMS. I do this quite often, like 3-4 times a week at least, as I parked more than 100m away from my movement area at work. Edit: Oh, a good chunk of text was cut off when I pressed submit...; I'll type it again below: A while ago in another thread Bac2010 determined that my battery has 62.5 Ah capacity. The smart charger's manufacturer recommends that "a good, safe rule of thumb is about 1/10th its Ah capacity". Based on both info, I bought a smart charger that charges 7A @ 14.4V (it has a choice to charge 1A at the same voltage), can provide constant power supply at 13.0V, and can recondition at 15.8V. Just in case this info may help you determine if it can do what you suggested once we figure out how much current is drawn with the ignition on. Now, meanwhile, for me to get ready I need to ask a kind of dummy question: I usually hook the smart charger negative clamp to the bolt attached to the strut mount, behind the fuse box, please see attached picture. Please let me know if that location is suitable to be used as negative/ground connection for the mentioned purpose. Thanks in advance folks.

Hello folks: Still dealing with the dealer and the contamination with the (C)VC5 they put in my cooling system. Tomorrow they'll do "something" but they refuse to let me know beforehand what they're planning to do. I've asked many many times with absolutely no one answer, other than "we're going to use (C)VC13DLG; bring it in tomorrow" (thanks). I should have asked you folks before but I got that answer from them today and this question just came to mind after being so worried for not knowing what they're actually going to do: Does anyone know (even approximately) how much volume of coolant (L or qts) keeps trapped in the cooling system/block when you just drain it? According to the User's Guide for the 2011 Edge SEL the coolant system takes a total volume of 11.1L (11.7 qts). Thanks in advance, folks.

Yes, I'm thinking about contacting Ford Canada; thanks Ron. The thing is if I graciously decline the dealer's offer, I don't know how much damage the car will have if I keep running the car until a suitable resolution might be reached with Ford Canada (I don't expect Ford Canada to pay immediate attention to a 10 years old vehicle with 125K miles on it ). Then if I accept what the dealer here is "offering" me, Ford Canada may consider the matter resolved. I'm kind of stuck in between two rocks, if you know what I mean. Reputable independent service place.. Hum? Well, I don't want to make it sound/look too difficult, but I've already tried before 4-5 different places over 25 years. The problem here is that most places (I haven't tried them all) here have significant turn around (low pay). You "stick" with a guy for a while and then after a while that guy is gone; the next guy does things "differently" (it shouldn't be, I know). ...But it's definitively time to look around once again. You know what I really think: many, way too many people just drop off their vehicles for service and then pick them up and drive away without checking (I found that out because I checked, and asked what they did; and then when I received a childish answer I consulted with you folks; how many people do that? That's how the dealer "gets away with murder"). Then when something fails (like the water pump, for instance), people say it's Ford's fault. I honestly don't think it's always Ford's fault, at least not regarding the vehicles design and functioning. It's the enforcement of the correct and appropriate maintenance which are in limbo, and then things fail... But anyway... I'll be on the hunt... Anyhow, no more responses from the dealer today. I'll keep you guys posted on the development, if interested. I thank you all once again for your advise and support.

I asked them; they told me they use tap water as their regular standard operating procedure. If I don't accept it they won't do it. I even went further to ask what type of procedure they do. They told me they do drain and fill twice (not flush because some engines have had some hick ups after real flush...). But then I asked them how they do two (2) drain & fill with only one (1) jug of 4L concentrate. I got no answer. I explained to them that 1 jug of 4L concentrate at 50/50 dilution would make up a maximum of 8L of diluted coolant. How they did two (2) drain & fill with only 8L of diluted coolant if my vehicle system takes 11.1L of engine coolant. I got no answer... Now I'm going to refer to what they are saying regarding the coolant. Read below, please: Basically, they're going to do one drain & fill procedure as if replacing with the same coolant type. If the coolant system is contaminated with a non compatible coolant, I don't think the same one drain & fill procedure should apply. They're going to contact Ford hotline to consult if the CVC5 used in my car is compatible with the CVC13, as they say the CVC5 is the newest and more advanced coolant Ford has. They know it reads CVC13 replaces CVC10 but that there shouldn't be a problem if they used a coolant better than recommended... Now I'm going to refer to the last message I received after I told them I'm not accepting that: They will email me when they get an answer from Ford Canada as the backward compatibility bulleting doesn't mention the incompatibility of the CVC5 in my vehicle. They set me up to "flush" the coolant again on their expense if necessary. That "if necessary" kind of throw me off; I don't really know what they mean... They haven't answered yet one my questions on how they got two (2) drain & fill with only one (1) jug of 4L (4 quarts) of CVC5 concentrated coolant at 50/50 dilution with water if my vehicle system takes 11.1L (11.7 quarts) of engine coolant. If they did only one drain & fill, that concentrate volume in that total volume is more like a 30/70 coolant/tap water; if they actually did two drain & fill with only one 4L jug, then that dilution is more like a 15/85 coolant/tap water... I also mentioned that Ford Motorcraft instructs a 50/50 dilution with deionized water, not with tap water. I have no answers to any of my questions; I've asked them twice today already... Thank you all in advance.

Thank you Ron as well. I just asked the dealer if they also sell distilled water (just for me to check what they use to dilute the antifreeze/coolant), and they told me they use tap water to dilute antifreeze/coolant as a regular standard operating procedure. I guess at this point it'll be better to have the correct coolant even diluted with tap water than a contamination with diluted light green (wrong) coolant in my system... Anyhow... I also asked them in this case (that they contaminated my system with light green coolant) if they'll do just a drain and fill twice or an actual flush and fill twice. Still waiting for an answer... Oh boys... Thank you all.

Update: Dealer is sorry for the confusion, apologized for the inconvenience and will take my car back to make this right. I want to thank this great forum, and specially DaMiFo once again for the very valuable and timely info. You literally saved my car so, thank YOU!

Hello again Damifo and all: I have another question, if you wouldn't mind, please: it's regarding the invoice and charge from the Ford dealer for the requested cooling system flush: they told me they'll drain and fill twice. However, the invoice/charge lists 1 part CVC 5 antifreeze for $23.99 (parts total). My question to you is: does anyone knows if this amount (1 CVC-5 for $23.99) corresponds to one drain and fill or two drain and fill as they told me they'll do. The reason of my question is that I'd like to go "full force" with my claim/complain and I would like to know how I can check if they actually do one, two or (I may request) three drain and fill. How can I know/check how many drain and fill they do? Is there a way for me to know? Thank you all in advance. Edit: I think I'm going to try to obtain that info from the Ford dealer parts dept. If they give me the price per unit and how many liters of water to be added per unit I can figure it out, as my vehicle system uses 11.7L (11.1 quarts) of engine coolant. Thanks folks.

Damifo, thank you VERY MUCH for your comments, info and references. I have the same concern about my town dealer: don't know or don't care? When I brought the car this last time, he did tell me that they drain & fill twice; who knows if it's true but he also told me it's about 1h charge for labor. For safety reasons, customers are not longer allowed in the shop so I can't witness it... I'll get back to them; I foresee a long battle... Thanks again for your valuable info and comments.

Hello again folks, I just got a response from the dealer explaining that the Specialty dark green concentrated coolant (service part CVC 10 A) is no longer available and that they used the Premium light green concentrated coolant (service part CVC-5) now recommended for my Edge (built in Mar 2011). If someone else could please confirm it will add peace to my mind. Thank you all in advance. PS: the "C" in front of the VC is for Canada; it may be the same product as just the VC (my guess, but I could be wrong) Antifreeze_Coolant_Usage_Chart.pdf (ford.com)

Happy New Year folks: I know coolant/antifreeze topic has been on and off over the years, but the dealer got me confused once again and I'd like your opinion or advise, please. Some background info first: About three years ago, as the vehicle was new to me then, I requested the dealer to do a coolant full flush, and they agreed. When I picked the vehicle back (and I asked if they did the full flush) only then they told me they "couldn't" do the full flush and they did just drain and fill, even though they previously agreed and also recorded in the service invoice: "engine coolant flush and replace coolant with anti-freeze part CVC 10 A (CAD $47.99 + labour). When I opened the hood the new coolant color was a very dark green. I knew nothing then (no much more now anyway lol) and I just assumed the dealer knew what they do... This week, after 33280 km (around 20K miles) later, I took it to the dealer and again requested a full flush. The service advisor this time recommended "not to do a full flush because some engines have had some hick ups..." (his own words). I couldn't argue and agreed to drain and fill only. When I picked my vehicle back, this time they recorded in the service order: "cooling system flush with anti-freeze part CVC 5 (CAD $23.99 + labour). I asked him how come the coolant was much cheaper this time, he told me "oh, it's a concentrate, they just pour it in and dilute it with water..." OK I guest (to myself). When I opened the hood, this time the coolant color was translucent/transparent light green... We all know why we do earlier coolant changes, right?; therefore I'll greatly appreciate your opinions and advise on my paramount questions to you all: - Should I be concerned that they changed the coolant color from dark green to light green? - should I have any other concern(s)? I know I always write too much trying to explain it all, but please feel free to ask for any further clarification. Thank you all in advance.

Hello Enigma and all: Well, I didn't measure the exact temp at the time I was measuring the CCA, but I did it in my attached garage which at this time of the year the ambient temp is between 9-13 C (48-55 F). Hope this is good enough... Talking about the garage: unfortunately I'll have to postpone any further actions/tests on my battery until further notice as one of my garage door's tension springs snapped and the door is inoperable for now. TG the car was outside when this happened! Thank you all for your suggestions and advise. Stay tuned.

Hello folks: Thanks Ron and Znow for your inputs. I'm going to use a smart charger as a tender to fully charge it overnight with the ignition on, IF that's ok. Please let me know if not appropriate. Also, should I first turn the ignition on and then connect the smart charger or the other way around, or it doesn't matter which one is on first? I not only don't know much about battery/electricity stuff but I'm also pretty paranoid about leaving a smart charger connected all night long with the ignition on in the attached garage (fire hazard?). I'm also having some gas fumes/smells after fill ups, ...and I just filled up today (I already got advise about the gas smell in another thread; thank you folks...) Good to know that I should use the largest piece of mass (battery terminals) to test it (I didn't know that; thank you). As a matter of fact, I had mentioned to the dealer that the positive cable was not seated properly all the way down the post (it was left high up) and I can't clamp the positive post directly ( I also mentioned to them that the terminals were not cleaned off old corrosion and other deposits or debris, nor any protective sprayed on the new battery terminals). I'm going back tomorrow (today) and they'll look into that. Oh Ford dealer... I've never reset the BMS before... Things that I don't know how they work kind of scares/concerns me... but I'll do so. Thank you all.

Happy Holiday Season folks: 2011 SEL here. Dealer installed a new (6-month old) battery BXT-65-850 on mid month. I measured the CCA just after installation and it was reading 856 CCA (I was pleased). Ten days later I measured it again and it was reading 826 CCA (I wasn't so pleased...). My question to you folks: is that a normal, expected performance in a brand newly installed battery? Or it is a sign or indication of something else being or going bad? Should I claim something to the dealer? My driving is considered SOC (special operating conditions): short commutes, just so you know. Thanks in advance for your time, comments and suggestions, always very appreciated.

Kid trained! He beat the time lol. Now, he asked me a curious question that I would like to pass it on to you: if I have the car key, it's not supposed that I also have the keyfob in my possession? (I'm taking the car key out of the keyfob). What is the alarm for then, what's the alarm's purpose if I'm opening the car door with the car key?

Yap, I never thought about that situation (keyfob battery dead); and I knew the only way to start the push button car is with the keyfob in the slot inside the arm rest. But I didn't know I have only 12 secs to do so before the alarm goes off lol. Time to train him to beat the time! lol. Thank you both.

Hi folks, 2011 Edge SEL here: My kid had a small issue the other day when driving my car with the other ("his") key, like once inside the car a warning message popped up reading "key not detected" (or something along those lines). He was able to fully operate the car without any problems anyway, but it made me realize it's time to "teach" him a few options he would have with this car thanks to the technology Ford incorporated on it. Anyway, before showing him, I wanted to try myself, just to make sure I was not going to "look bad" if something doesn't work at the time I was showing him. One thing I wanted to mimic is the case scenario if the key fob battery dies (and he doesn't know or doesn't remember the keypad code, and I am away from my phone when he calls to ask me, ...the worst possible case scenario where everything that can go wrong goes wrong...) You got the idea. So, I took the hard/cut key out of the key fob and placed the key fob far away, out of range, to neutralize the intelligent access (no key close by), then I inserted and turned the hard key in the door key slot: the driver door unlocked (great!), but immediately I can hear like a timer beeping from inside the car still with the door close (like in all movies when a car bomb is about to explode lol) And sure enough, when I opened the door the ...alarm went off! ...and I couldn't, didn't know how to silence it. So, I grabbed the key fob, close by Ah!, I forgot to mention: it's a push button start (no key slot to start the car). So, if that happens in real life (battery dead dead in the key fob), how do you guys solve that issue. Of course, the push button won't work because the key fob battery is dead, correct? (I didn't try that; the alarm drove me crazy!, I couldn't think lol). I know once inside the car you can place the key fob inside the arm rest specific location and then press the push button to start the car, but those "few" seconds feel like a century when the alarm is honking non stop!!! lol Honestly, I was VERY surprised when the alarm went off; I was NOT expecting that to happen. TG I was just "rehearsing" before showing my kid ...how it works. lol Any lightening solution? Or something is not working properly in my car? ...Or I did something not quite right that triggered the alarm?.. BTW: I don't have that issue (alarm going off) when I open the door after unlocking it with the keypad code... (probably of course...) Thanks in advance, folks.

Hello WWWPerfA (and all): Thank you once again for your time, directions and advise. Now I know where to look/check closely next time I fuel up. Million thanks! The smell comes for sure from around the rear part of the vehicle. It seems to me like it smells stronger from around the fuel cap side. I'm going to try to further narrow down the location for the smell. I haven't gotten yet any check engine pop up or any other warning in my dash board/cluster panel or in the Information section. I haven't noticed either a vacuum noise from the fuel cap (I'm going to pay close attention next time) or have had a shut off gun when fueling in. As such, I'm going to leave the solenoid valve replacement down in my check list, as well as the filler neck, but I'm going to check first on canister and vent both hoses. If I don't find them plugged, I'm going to replace the solenoid valve. I'm going to eventually replace the EPV in the engine compartment firewall as well; I think I can do those now that I know what they are and where they are lol (thank YOU!). From the video, it looks to me like the canister/solenoid valve are located on the same side of the fuel cap. Please correct me or confirm if you can. I don't know how old that video is, but that car looks awesome at the bottom! Mine is all rusty, Canadian winter roads are car killers! I just had to replace the rocket panels because they didn't pass the annual safety inspection (MVI). Maybe this could be another "hint" to narrow down where/what the problem may be... My goodness, how many "little" things to keep a car running... Kudos to car engineers, ...well, actually, kudos to people like you! Thank YOU!