Edgingage

Although I'm really sorry for the lost of your pump and the amount of work to rebuild the front end, I'm very happy to hear that my car is not even half way there yet.  Peace of mind?  Maybe lol.

No, on the contrary, Ford wouldn't want to use him in their ads, Ford would like to disappear those videos from the net!, he's actually "killing" Ford main business: selling new cars!! Lol

Thank you Mac for your tremendous work and information, you're the one keeping me going on my 10-year old Edge, hopefully turning 11 soon ? ?.

Only 7 years old at the time he started to deal with the dealer, months ago .  Weird...

Lol, let me have a laugh Jeff K (with respect).  It's just because I had a similar question about four years ago and I got a similar answer: it IS there lol.  "But where?", that's your question.

Well, it's very hard to find it first time from the top of the engine bay (forget it), it's really hard to find it that way unless it has been already moved from its original/factory storage location, if it's still in its original location from factory (if it hasn't been previously used/touched yet).  Once you do find it first time then you'll be able to continue locating/tracing it from the top of the engine bay.  But to find it first time you will have to crawl under the car (that's the only way I could find it after expending days looking for it from the top lol, reading the user's manual, reading Haynes book, even posting a question in other part of this great forum, and still couldn't find the info for the location).

So, rise the front of the car on ramps (you could rise only the passenger side if you want), get underneath with a good flashlight and set your mind ready to spend some time down there, IF needed lol.  Unfortunately I didn't take pictures when I found it (sorry) and I'm currently recovering from a recent heart attack and double bypass so, I'm still very limited in the physical activities I could do (i.e., not even driving yet ).

Here is the first fun part: once you put the car on ramp and crawl underneath (remember to engage parking brake, shuck the opposite rear wheel and all other pertinent safety measures to get underneath the car), find the engine block (as a reference start) and look along the chassis frame, the heat cord should be tightly tucked against the frame, look like if you're looking for something that it's supposed to be hidden, really hard to find ON PURPOSE lol.

Once you find it (you will, trust me), here is the second fun part: there's no much space where you can run that cable around to the front of the car.  So, before you actually start sweating bringing that cable through the front, first think where exactly you want to have that plug, and then work its way towards where you want to place it.  I had A LOT OF FUN placing the plug through the lower grill right underneath the front plate holder lol.

Good luck!

I agree with you, something is better than nothing; I'll see if Ford's Parts salesperson agrees lol.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Hi folks:

I think I'm probably going against the current, or against the trend at this time as most people are going with black, stealth, gun powder and similar color/look for rims.  But I'd like to replace my 18" grey stock rims with 20" shine/bright chrome wheels.  I looked at Tirerack and also at Canadawheels (cheaper shipping but I don't seem to find a spoke pattern I like (very few options available for 20" chrome).  I also looked at Detroit wheel and tire but they sell refurbished/reworked/repaired wheels (anyone has experience buying from Detroit wheel and tire?).

Is there any other place I should look to find 20" chrome wheels for my 2011 Edge SEL?  Any suggestions or directions are appreciated in advance.

Last year I had to redo the rocker panels in 2011 SEL.  So definitively an area you should soak it up.

Oh, thank you omar302.

Does that work for the 2011-14 YM, (without fordscan)?!

Or maybe first just recharge the battery and see if the problem resolves.  Then you'll know for sure it's the battey.  Otherwise you may replace the battery prematurely and not solve the problem

Did you change the transmisión fluid (right when you bought the used vehicle)?  It's due @ around 125 000 miles...

Cory, I had found some same/similar on Amazon when I got your reply at better price than drive brights (around 1/3 total price including shipping).  I haven't installed them yet.  Wish me luck

Thank you folks.

Hi Enigma:

Thank you for your question. The only reason I'd like brighter signature lights is for matching the color of the headlights.  I do agree 110% about the hazard it represents the lights that some drivers put at front, I don't get why some do that...  I'm not one of them and will not be any time soon, if ever.

Thanks again for your question.

That's the 10th thing in my list when looking to buy a car.  If it doesn't have it I walk away lol, even though it's not required where I live it MUST have a front plate frame.

...Everybody is different ?.

Good idea.  I'll try that, ...after the snow storm going on here.

Thanks Omar! ?.

I said it, Canadian Ford (st)ealers...

On 3/5/2021 at 6:16 PM, enigma-2 said:

...

As for rustproofing, I've never had good luck with these services. In-fact, I actually believe that they make the situation worse. I have a 2009 MKX and zero rust. (Other than the driveshaft and suspension parts). I just run it throjgh the local car wash once a week. Washes off the salt and dirt, major cause of rusting.

...

Glad to hear your experience.  I have had the same bad luck: after many rust "proof" treatments car all rusted out.  I just had to redo both rocket panels after many Krown treatments...  No luck for my cars.

In her case, the problem is not the warranty, she had it; her problem is the Ford stealer.  If she buys a new Ford she'll be faced with the same ...overcharged extra bills, unfortunately.

Hello Omar and all:

I just mounted a new set of gas struts for the hood.  I could replace the ones for the cargo lid.  However, how can I make sure that's what's preventing the lid to go to its max?  I wouldn't want to replace the cargo lid struts ...and still keep banging my head lol.

I know by now I shouldn't bang my head on the cargo lid; however, it still happens often enough.

My 2011 SEL, when the lid opens automatically by any of the intended means (driver's push button, lid push button or key fob button) it reaches a maximum height of 66-1/2" (measured from the ground to the lowest interior lid point).  But then I can push the lid by hand farther up to 71" (another 4-1/2" up) which diminishes my frequent head-banging noticeably.  However, once I close and open the lid automatically again it'll travel to its "original" previously set automatic height again (66-1/2" from the floor).

Does anyone know if it's possible to set/reset the cargo lid height to automatically travel to the same maximum height reached by manual push up?

Please help me not banging my head anymore

Thanks in advance.

Enigma, I got it now!

I really and greatly appreciate all your time sharing your knowledge and "spelling" it all out for me.  Thanks a lot!

Best regards!

On 3/1/2021 at 8:47 PM, enigma-2 said:

...Full brightness for 70%, off for 30%. Thats how they run my DRL on my MKX only I think it's 50% for DRL).

Enigma, thank you VERY MUCH for you reply and explanation.  You answered my main question; thanks again.

If you wouldn't mind to please excuse my lack of electrical knowledge, could you please explain, spell for me what the above really mean?: "...off for 30%."  I don't think they're ever off with the engine running...  And to be honest, I don't even know/understand what "duty cycle" is (engine, alternator, ?).

But again, you DID answer my main question (full 12.6V all the time) and I DO appreciate it.  It's that "70% duty cycle" (of what?) plus "off 30%" (lights, which lights?) what leaves me in limbo; I'm puzzled (my lack of knowledge, I know).  I'm sorry.

But I now know what I wanted to know initially; thanks again.

Enigma, thank you very much for your reply.

That's why I think I also read but I wasn't sure if that's regarding luminosity.  So then I could interpret it as that the signature "fog" lights will operate dimmed at 12V x 70% = at 8.4V?  Is my interpretation correct?

Please let me know.

Thanks in advance.

Znow, thanks for your reply, I appreciate it.

I realized my OP above was not clear; I just corrected the wording in my OP above.

My question (as stated in the tittle) is regarding the power (voltage) getting to the vertical signature "fog" lights when the car is running during daytime as these lights function also as DRL then, but at reduced luminosity.

Do you (or anyone else) know what voltage is powering the vertical signature "fog" lights when they're dimmed (while the car is running)?  Luminosity is reduced; my understanding is that that's because the voltage getting to them is reduced.  My question, what I'd like to know is: What's the voltage getting to the "fog" lights when the voltage is lowered during DRL and therefore their ("fog" lights) luminosity is diminished as a result of a lower voltage getting to them?

Thanks in advance.

Please delete post; wrong thread, sorry.

Did you try in the 2015 forum?

https://www.fordedgeforum.com/forum/79-2015-edge-mkx/

Just checking...

Hi folks, 2011 SEL here:

We all know that, during daytime, with lights knob selected to automatic, the headlights AND signature/vertical/"fog" lights dim while driving.  I've heard/read some comments stating the signature "fog" lights go to 50% and other comments stating they go to 70%, but it's not always clear to me if they're referring to luminosity or actual voltage.  Does anyone know what's the actual voltage these lights dim at?

In other words, and specifically, I would like to know what's the minimum operating voltage the signature/vertical/"fog" lights get when operating in dimmed mode.

Your info is very welcome and greatly appreciated in advance.

I took a shot at this car (sorry for my quick crappy picture).  Vent visors WITH chrome accent!

I had never seen them before.  Had anybody?