vega

Oh, I got you. There is a round clip ring on the end which locks it into place. Usually, a pry bar will get that end out but use caution not to go crazy cause there is a bushing there. If at first you can't remove it, rotate that end like 1/8 or a revolution and try again, move and try again. The lock ring has a slight opening and you are trying to match the small opening with one of the spline grooves. Good luck

Clip removal pliers will do the job.

I've never seen a mass produced one but it may exist. When I needed one for my 2015 roof, I was told by the dealer to seek out a custom shop. That means lots of money. Of course a temporary works, Thule makes one. Just google it. https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle-finder.aspx?hhcat=roof&passmake=Ford&passmodel=Edge&gclid=CjwKCAjw2_LcBRBYEiwA_XVBUyr6Sy8d_qq8g69apKH_BqoYoNrfzUmdNy0bCX6LHPrp5Z2QriMr7BoCoxEQAvD_BwE

Yes, I agree. But to get scuff paint off I use WD40 with a rag and go to work. If it's paint deposited from another vehicle, it will come out with wd40 and some elbow grease. Then go on to the other suggestions to shine it up.

Sorry, but third party remote starters are available that use three press start with original fobs or 2015 on up. I bought mine on ebay and for 125.00 dollars and installed it in about 20 minutes with no splicing, plug and play. Examples: https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=2015-18+F150+14-17+FUSION+14-17+MKZ+15-17+EDGE+PLUG+%26+PLAY+REMOTE+START+STARTER+&_id=122475959209&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658

Did you have to remove that right panel that surrounds the original light? How did you remove it? Looks good by the way. One light is too dark and then you put something in front of it and you have no light when the hatch opens. Thanks

Oh, forgot to mention that its better to ge one with plastic edges so you will not possibly cut yourself by mistake.

I use a 10 inch painters pad available anywhere. Just the pad, not the holder. I then wrap the pad with a microfiber towel. I can really get to the bottom without killing myself.

Sorry but I just saw your post. Have a friend near Winnipeg who uses a dipstick heater which has a pretty low current draw and cheap to buy.

Spray only the first 1/2 that comes fully out and only on the side facing away from your clothes. Worked for me.

Agreed, malarky talk from the dealer.

Use Tasca parts for the best and lowest price on these. I just ordered 2 of each of the three for about 10 bucks..

I needed the same and could only get it at the dealer. Sorry, I don't have the part number but just tell them and they will look it up.

I have a 2015 se and put in HIDS, I have never been flashed by anyone and live in a major city. However, I did have to put in capacitors because although they worked when I installed them, they would turn off when I turned on the engine. Just a heads up.

Thanks for the information. Given that these are OEM led lamps, I will proceed with caution and get the kit since it has a controller which should protect the circuits.

No. It's actually for a bike rack and I thought I'd make it pretty with some lights on the cheap.

Hello all, trying to splice in a trailer harness. Working on the left light assembly which has five wires. Black, red, orange, green and brown. I am assuming that black is ground. Can anyone tell me what each is for? Need to pin down the turn signal, brake, and parking wires. I did a probe test with a 12 volt meter but I think the module is giving me weird readings. Any help appreciated. Thanks

Well, I double checked and in my case it counts as a admin key. This was a fully plug and play unit that took less that 10 minutes to install, eight of which was the cover from the steering wheel bottom.

A cheap one from ebay that works with your regular fob, Not too bad very limited to the same range as your fob.

Thank you for the information.

Does anyone know if installing a remote start counts against the administrative key count? I have three keys as admin keys. I also have installed a remote start. When I tried to add a key, the car said it had 4 keys programmed and that is the limit.

Conductive test of the CA or CCA is the ONLY way to really check. I'm shocked at the number of NEW batteries at fault.

Wow, anything is potentially grounds for denial of a claim. Just as bad as an insurance company when they lose the bet. That's why I wait until all warranties are expired before I fiddle. Thanks roots57

Here's a picture of this connector. still a mystery. I might just have to get my meter out and see what going on there. Just wish I had a male connector to attach with pigtails.