Rchalk

I am not sure of the information I found several months ago, but I read somewhere on this forum that the donut spares were two different sizes- - 17" and 18" I believe. That poster said that the 18" rim would fit, so I found one on eBay, and took a chance. I have not, in fact, tried it on my vehicle, and I guess I should. As for wheel diameter and the AWD, it is not the rim size that matters, but the circumference of the tire when inflated. I will measure that when I try the wheel, and let you all know what I find.

I actually spent $100 and bought a donut spare. I trust that more than the original kit, and it was less expensive.

Actually, it is a 2020,ST, but I have only had it about 6 months, and still learning its quirks. For instance, did you know that if the parking brake is applied, touching the accelerator will not release the brake if a door is ajar? Only discovered that one yesterday.

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions. I did not fully understand the difference between lane-keeping and lane-centering, so it is probably the second one that is on. I must have pushed the button accidentally while changing the cruise control setting. When all else fails, read the manual I guess. Thanks again....

The other day, the lane keeping assistant turned itself on, and now it won't turn off. When I press the button on the turn-signal stalk, I get the message on the screen that the lane keeping has been turned off, but it is still on. The lane-edge lines still appear, and the system is still controlling the steering as it normally does. Setting the cruise control to "normal" instead of adaptive does disable it, but setting it back to adaptive, the lane-keeping feature is back on. Since I get the messages on the dash, the switch and its wiring must be OK, and the computer is at least partially responding. It seems to me this might be a software glitch that could be cleared by a full reset, but is there any way to do this other than disconnecting the battery? If I do disconnect the battery, will I have problems with radio codes or other unforeseen problems? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I had a 2017 Edge V6, and it used engine braking, but the 2020 ST I have now uses brakes. Frankly, I would rather change the brake pads more often, and save the wear-and-tear of the clutches in the transmission. It has to be a lot cheaper in the long run!

I have owned two Edges with Sync3, and have tried three different wireless carplay adapters. In every case, there are intermittent problems. Sometimes the adapter boots and connects to the car and phone correctly, but other times, there is no connection to the Sync3 system, and the light on the adapter flashes. Also occasionally the adapter connects to the car, but won't connect to the phone (Iphone 12). Has anyone found an adapter that connects reliably with both the car system and an iPhone? I would appreciate any suggestions or recommendations, as I am very frustrated with this. Thanks for your interest and help!

For any of you who hate the single-tone horn, here is the answer: The horns are made by FIAMM, and a quick search on Amazon brings up this: Amazon.com: FIAMM 7201622 OEM Dual Horn Assembly, GM/Chrysler/Ford : Automotive This gets you both horns, and a wiring harness for $28.00 - much cheaper than the Ford dealer. They come on a bracket for a different car, but that doesn't matter, because the bracket in the car is made for dual horns. I removed the left-hand headlamp, installed both horns on the existing bracket, hooked up the wiring harness and replaced the headlamp, all in about 20 minutes! Piece of cake, and now it sounds like a"Real Car"

Never mind - found a YouTube video showing how to replace the horn. Thanks.

I have been looking all over the engine compartment, but can't seem to locate the horn. I expect it's just me, but can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks.

On a hot day, I pressed the MAX-AC button, and as expected, the system went into LO temperature, Max fan, and recirculate. However, when I pressed AUTO again, it went into heat mode, HI temperature, and blew hot air out of the dash vents. This only happens occasionally, while most of the time it returns to the settings from before pressing the MAX-AC. Any thoughts or comments? Thanks.

Thanks for the info.

I noticed this module, just sitting loose in the compartment, but connected by wires to the vehicle, under the rear seat on the left. Looks like an "afterthought" in manufacturing. Anyone know what it is? Thanks

Thank you for the suggestions. I am also curious about glare-free high-beam is. I don't see any setting with that name...

In my recently-acquired ST, if I drive with the normal startup conditions, the auto-dimming headlights work really well - in fact much better than the 2017 I had before this one. However, If a manually dim the lights, for example when approaching cross-traffic waiting at a stop sign, then the lights stay on low-beam. If I then manually select High Beam, the lights don't dim when approaching another vehicle. My question is how do I restore to normal automatic mode once I have made a manual selection? Thanks for any assistance you can offer.

The 2020 ST I bought a few weeks ago, I just discovered, has no spare tire. Instead there is an extra storage tray of sorts which doesn't seem to fit correctly, and holds the floor panel up about 1/2 inch from where it should lie flat. Is this normal for the ST? There is a jack and wheel lug wrench..... I have the performance brake package with the 21-inch wheels. Should I have gotten the inflator/sealer kit as well?

New to the forum. I just bought a 2020 ST, in "Rapid Red" with 28K miles on it ($25,800 - good deal?) which has the 401A package and the Performance Brake/tire package. When I look at the order list, it says the car should have heated steering wheel, but on the window sticker it does not, and the car does not have this feature. Can anyone explain? Also would like to know of any recommended maintenance items that might not be clearly covered in the owners manual, and any general suggestions about operating the vehicle. Thanks everyone - I am looking forward to learning more about this fun car!

At somewhere around 50,000 miles, my Edge suddenly has excessive noise from the engine. It is most severe around 2200 RPM, and increases while working harder, such as climbing a hill. There is a "HUM" at that engine speed, which seems to be where something is resonating, but at all speeds, there is a very mechanical-sounding noise whenever the engine is working harder, such as accelerating from a stop. Engine performance seems normal, and transmission behaves OK. I have looked at exhaust mounts, and as much as I can at engine and transmission mounts, but can't see anything obvious. Anyone have any suggestions? I could create and post a recording if that might help...

I have noticed a clicking noise at the right front corner of the car (2017 3.5L) if I start up from a stop with the wheels turned about half-lock to the left. Does not occur on right turn from stop, and seems only to be noticeable when cooler temperature, below 40-45 degrees. I have checked the obvious like lug nuts. Is this a sign of an impending failure of a CV joint or similar? Is there a lubricant I should be checking? Thanks for your help.

I have a 2017 Edge with factory HID headlights. I am at 5 years old, and 70,000 miles. I read that these lamps do lose some brightness over time, and I have no way to measure that, so I am looking for others experiences or recommendations as to whether I should replace the bulbs at this point. Opinions or observations? Thanks.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. However, the situation I describe is not a function of ambient lighting. I live in a rural area, with winding, 2-lane roads, and on those I experience almost instant high-beams when I meet an oncoming vehicle. The high-speed response is on a 4-lane divided highway, with very little traffic in the evening, so many times it is completely dark. I am well aware of the effects of lighted signs, etc., that may mimic headlights or taillights. Thinking about this, I will have to check if it is affected by traffic behind me. I suppose a small amount of light could be reflected by the inside of the windshield, and find its way back to the camera in the mirror. thanks again.

I have a 2017 Edge Titanium with auto-dimming HID headlamps. I have noticed that a lower speeds, the high-beams activate almost immediately after passing an oncoming car, but at higher speeds like 65-70 MPH, it takes almost 4 seconds. This seems counterintuitive to me, as faster, longer visibility is more important at higher speeds. What are your thoughts?