Rchalk

Today the "Service Engine Soon" light came on, with no noticeable change in performance. A free diagnostic at O'Reilly Auto Parts returned code P046, EVAP System High Purge Flow. The description says "Code P0496 indicates that the Evaporative Emission System had high purge flow for a predetermined period of time" Can anyone tell me what caused this, and of an owner-repair is possible? The local Ford dealer says probably 2-3 hours labor, plus parts. I'd sure like to avoid this bill if it is something simple to repair or replace. Also, how do I reset the code to determine if the problem is recurring or one-time? Thanks for any help anyone can offer. Richard

I am not sure of the information I found several months ago, but I read somewhere on this forum that the donut spares were two different sizes- - 17" and 18" I believe. That poster said that the 18" rim would fit, so I found one on eBay, and took a chance. I have not, in fact, tried it on my vehicle, and I guess I should. As for wheel diameter and the AWD, it is not the rim size that matters, but the circumference of the tire when inflated. I will measure that when I try the wheel, and let you all know what I find.

I actually spent $100 and bought a donut spare. I trust that more than the original kit, and it was less expensive.

Actually, it is a 2020,ST, but I have only had it about 6 months, and still learning its quirks. For instance, did you know that if the parking brake is applied, touching the accelerator will not release the brake if a door is ajar? Only discovered that one yesterday.

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions. I did not fully understand the difference between lane-keeping and lane-centering, so it is probably the second one that is on. I must have pushed the button accidentally while changing the cruise control setting. When all else fails, read the manual I guess. Thanks again....

The other day, the lane keeping assistant turned itself on, and now it won't turn off. When I press the button on the turn-signal stalk, I get the message on the screen that the lane keeping has been turned off, but it is still on. The lane-edge lines still appear, and the system is still controlling the steering as it normally does. Setting the cruise control to "normal" instead of adaptive does disable it, but setting it back to adaptive, the lane-keeping feature is back on. Since I get the messages on the dash, the switch and its wiring must be OK, and the computer is at least partially responding. It seems to me this might be a software glitch that could be cleared by a full reset, but is there any way to do this other than disconnecting the battery? If I do disconnect the battery, will I have problems with radio codes or other unforeseen problems? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I had a 2017 Edge V6, and it used engine braking, but the 2020 ST I have now uses brakes. Frankly, I would rather change the brake pads more often, and save the wear-and-tear of the clutches in the transmission. It has to be a lot cheaper in the long run!

I have owned two Edges with Sync3, and have tried three different wireless carplay adapters. In every case, there are intermittent problems. Sometimes the adapter boots and connects to the car and phone correctly, but other times, there is no connection to the Sync3 system, and the light on the adapter flashes. Also occasionally the adapter connects to the car, but won't connect to the phone (Iphone 12). Has anyone found an adapter that connects reliably with both the car system and an iPhone? I would appreciate any suggestions or recommendations, as I am very frustrated with this. Thanks for your interest and help!

For any of you who hate the single-tone horn, here is the answer: The horns are made by FIAMM, and a quick search on Amazon brings up this: Amazon.com: FIAMM 7201622 OEM Dual Horn Assembly, GM/Chrysler/Ford : Automotive This gets you both horns, and a wiring harness for $28.00 - much cheaper than the Ford dealer. They come on a bracket for a different car, but that doesn't matter, because the bracket in the car is made for dual horns. I removed the left-hand headlamp, installed both horns on the existing bracket, hooked up the wiring harness and replaced the headlamp, all in about 20 minutes! Piece of cake, and now it sounds like a"Real Car"

Never mind - found a YouTube video showing how to replace the horn. Thanks.

I have been looking all over the engine compartment, but can't seem to locate the horn. I expect it's just me, but can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks.

On a hot day, I pressed the MAX-AC button, and as expected, the system went into LO temperature, Max fan, and recirculate. However, when I pressed AUTO again, it went into heat mode, HI temperature, and blew hot air out of the dash vents. This only happens occasionally, while most of the time it returns to the settings from before pressing the MAX-AC. Any thoughts or comments? Thanks.

Thanks for the info.

I noticed this module, just sitting loose in the compartment, but connected by wires to the vehicle, under the rear seat on the left. Looks like an "afterthought" in manufacturing. Anyone know what it is? Thanks

Thank you for the suggestions. I am also curious about glare-free high-beam is. I don't see any setting with that name...