Mikula

made a video, hopefully this helps you http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24176-solved-noise-or-rattle-above-40mph/

If you guys are getting some noises or rattling seemingly from underneath your vehicle, this should solve the issue. This topic has been touched upon several times, and for some people it is hard to understand how to solve it without seeing what we're talking about, so I made a video to help out. The noise started about 4 months into ownership, and sometimes it would be noise above 30mph, sometimes not until 60mph, but it was a common theme... ANNOYING. The problem is the 3 small buttons or pins on each side that hold the under body cover in place. Hopefully this helps someone!

Post #5 shows you the plastic "buttons" underneath the car that rattle at higher speeds (usually 45mph or above) The quickest way to solve it is to stick something between the button, and the bottom cover. I used a thick tie wrap (zip tie) and cut a small piece and stuck it in there. Then I found a better solution... An old metal hanger, or some insulated wire (like a 14ga wire from a car stereo. cut a piece about 1" long, and bend it around the "button. It'll fill the small gap, and hold it in place better to stop the rattle. I may have to get under there and post the video to show what I mean

What will these require (aftermarket) for install. not talking gaskets and such, just supporting mods? BOV, Intercooler, throttle body, maybe tstat? obviously we'll be finding the weak points as we go, but for the initial install, what are you guys thinking?

Keep in mind, there is not much overspray when using dip, so you don't need to go crazy on the masking part of it. good luck!!

keep us posted on what kind of results you see with this one. I've got my eye on one if they are worth the pennies!

May I ask why you are removing it? Plasti-dip is a great tool, because you don't need to remove the emblem at all. Just tape a square around the emblem, put your coats of plasti-dip on it, remove the tape after the last coat. let it dry, then just peel it away. Any small areas that the plasti-dip gets into can be removed with a toothpick. no hassle of getting the emblem off and back on again. do NOT put anything over the plasti-dip. it defeats the purpose of the plasti-dip and usually messes up the finish. I live in central texas and use plasti-dip quite often. 20k miles on my harley and my front forks have been plasti-dipped the whole time with zero issues. I had the wheels plasti-dipped for approximately 11k miles and they still looked great when I finally took the plasti-dip off. With that being said, after that period of time, the dip wasn't "peeling" like it was supposed to. to fix that issue, i sprayed 2 more coats on top of the previous coats, waited for it to dry, and it peeled no problem. here is a how to, showing you that there is no need to remove the emblem:

Don't send them SQUAT! Send it to me instead!

It was a viagra joke... and I was asking about the guy from SSI, isn't he the one that is just a real a-hole to everyone?

I've heard so many good things about garrett cores, I'm eager to see what you guys are coming up with!

seriously, what is that guys deal? he seems like a real piece of work.

You're not slipping little blue pills in the tank, are you? It was suggested by someone else, figured I'd ask

Intercooler may take .7 tenths off the 1/4 mile? come on now... that might be a stretch! any idea on what the wait time is for their intercoolers?

any longer than that, you would have needed to call a mechanic!

No doubt his car is running those times... but you're missing the point. most of us are still in the 13's My best is 13.12 with: 100+ octane No rear seats, no spare tire, no jack, no carpets or anything in the rear whatsoever, no passenger seat, custom 2.5" exhaust, lowering springs I get no wheel hop, and the video from that night appears that I had no tire spin off the line. Larsen was the closest one behind him for a while there, running an unleashed tune, springs, better intercooler, and a whole bunch of seat time. I'm just not seeing why the rest of us are that far behind him. I've been racing for years... nothing fast or fancy, just doing it because I love it. mostly bracket racing. never wanted to be the fastest, best, greatest, or a record holder of any kind.. but curiosity is getting the best of me here. when you say "custom tune", that would change things. I was under the impression it was the same LMS 100 octane tune they send the rest of us.

how did you smoke your headlamps? just normal tint?

what was the DA there today? -1500?

They are evidently missing my best on there at 13.12 @ 103.5 and I'm pretty sure chris larsen has a 12 second run under his belt. It's listed on dragtimes, and I posted my slip to their fb page. I'm just no cool enough I'm still having a hard time believing what 037 says. pulling times that are almost a half second faster than most, with fuel and springs. Every time I ask him, all i get is "join the FB page"... which i did, and found no useful info except where it said "mods that help it run consistent"... whatever that means. there is definitely something.. weight reduction, wheels/tires, or something going on here. I mean I know SOMEONE has to be the fastest... but we're all running the same vehicle here, and 4 tenths of a second faster seems like we're not getting the full story. 4 tenths of a second on a 12/13 second car is somewhere near an additional 30-50hp. I don't think cool ambient air and a good DA is netting .4 in the 1/4. The rest of us are pulling hair out trying to get to 12's Now Leo, if you want to keep your secret a secret... by all means keep that on lock down, but don't go acting like its just gas and springs.

I'd be interested to see how RP fared amongst the others. They have been my go to for years. I put their schtuff in every hole of every car i've owned

That might explain why I'm having a hard time calculating how many gallons are left in the tank when I put octane booster in there. I'll have to do it the old fashioned way. Fill it up completely, reset trip and fuel economy, then fill again when the light comes on and see how many gallons I actually put into it. I wonder if it calculates miles to empty from fuel economy average from the day off the lot, or from the tripometer, or the actual fuel economy gauge that you can reset. Maybe It is programmed from the factory at a certain gallon amount left, say 2.5 gallons, and you're on your own as to what kind of fuel economy you get from there.

Lucky for you, the cheapo "chrome" valve stem caps at your auto parts store is the right size to fit into a .45acp, but they look funny being a different diameter than the stems. I'm cheap! that's why I glued my own in there! that is $10 in gas I can stick in the tank and beat up on some unsuspecting "muscle" cars

insurance won't cover that sort of thing? I mean, I'd say I'm mechanically inclined to fix most anything.. but when mother nature comes around screwing my stuff up, I call jake at statefarm and have him fix me up. *Side note.. I have no affiliation with any insurance company. In fact, I think state farm can go suck eggs. If you are still inclined to fixing it yourself, I would try removing the door panel first, and get a better visual of the internals if you can't get your hands on a diagram or anything.

What brand? I've been thinking about getting some from this company: http://drivebright.com/home/

Bringing posts back from the dead, are we?

Update: After installing mufflers (Magnaflow 10416) it sounds EXACTLY how I wanted it to. It sounds the same at idle and wide open throttle as it did before the muffler install, and now the in-cabin drone has been significantly reduced! at 80mph on the highway, the exhaust is quieter than wind/road noise, but you can definitely hear the exhaust note. However it is no longer: 1) Bone rattling 2) that ugly frequency what a relief. If anyone takes this project on, I recommend both a resonator, and mufflers. You'll be happy.