Mikula

i don't see ford putting any more power in this crossover. which is a shame, because i'm a hot rod guy, that needs family room. however when i'm at a stoplight you will see my trying to run every civic si and wrx i come across. unfortunately they don't even realize this fancy minivan will get up and go.

no information from lms. email from them said "You are putting more HP and TQ to the vehicle and the computer isn't sure what to do at first. We can always soften the shifts up for you. You have a pretty common strategy code with your vehicle and we haven't seen any other issues that come up with shifting besides what I suggested earlier." well i was under the impression from the original instructions that the shifts will seem hard until the computer learns driving habits. can't imagine that taking more than a few weeks and 1300 miles. at this point, not really impressed with LMS customer service like everyone else is. no one else seems to be having this issue with a 93 performance tune.

tuned it 2 weeks ago. going to call them tomorrow and see whats up

93 performance tune from LMS. now i know they give you firm shifts, and i love them. but this isn't "firm" this is a "bang". every time i get in the vehicle, the first few 2nd to 3rd upshifts are a lot harsher than any of the other shifts. its only the first few, like it has to warm up a bunch before they even out some. 3 minutes into driving it, they are fine.. just wondering if this is happening with anyone else before i call the boys at lms.

for the record i can say after getting it done today that 20% is spot on. they use "johnson" window films and from the outside you can't tell a difference. slightly different hue from the inside, but its hard to match "tinted glass" to "glass with tint"

i think the 2016 sport is darker than the previous body style. 20% seems to be the way to go. the place i stopped at assured me 20% would be about as close of a match i could get

anyone at all? also, did you drop one side at a time in the rear or drop the whole thing?

damn that looks good. mine arrive monday and i'm planning on installing them myself.

uploaded the performance tune first and took her for a spin. literally, just a bunch of wheel spinning when you turn the traction control off and punch it. best money i've ever spent on a vehicle (under $1000 anyway) my question is, did you guys notice much difference between the 93 performance tune, and the 93 aggressive tune? my seat didn't feel any difference between the two. though i'm sure on paper it might be noticeable?

now you're just blowing hot air

i'm in texas, i thought muffler borers were only in the northeast due to the moist climate up there?

to the guys that did the work themselves, i know about dropping the rear subframe for the rears, but for the fronts, is a spring compressor all i need? any tips or tricks would be appreciated!

2016 sport, wanting to get my front side windows tinted, and i want them to match the rear. anyone know what will accomplish this? i think with the windshield shining so much light in i'll have to go darker than what the rear is, would that be a correct assumption?

just laying under the back my 2016 sport and noticed two small holes on either side of the muffler (bottom side). does everyones have this? they are probably 1/8" to 3/16" in diameter and i can clearly see streaks of carbon that has come out from there. looks like they are supposed to be there, just as much as i'm thinking they shouldn't be there? maybe i just never looked at any of my other vehicles.

the rear bench is 15.2lbs, the passenger side with seat motor is 30.6lbs, and the driver side double seat section is 59lbs. total weight savings in seats alone is 104.8lbs. I've also removed the spare tire and jack, but did not weigh those. so to the guys trying to get into the 12's i sure hope you've taken the seats out! i don't really know why i'm waiting... just pretending its going to matter in the long run! i've also got my lowering springs on order, should be here soon. Edit/Update: weight savings: Spare Tire 39.5lbs Jack 9.5lbs Good for almost 155lbs of weight loss

well here we go. besides the sync 3 still not being any good for my tastes, the one thing that I immediately didn't like about this car was the fact that the rear seats did not completely fold flat. not only that, as an avid drag racer in my old foxbody, one of the first things i bought was a rear seat delete kit. now 12 years later, i figured I can apply this to my new "mommy car". I only care about 2 things, cars, and my dog. with that said there was no way she was getting a front seat, so i've decided to build a platform in the rear. here is the thing... I don't ever carry passengers, but if i do have family in town, i needed it to be easily removable. secondly, with all of the camping/fishing trips we take, i needed it to be sturdy. and lastly, I plan on getting the LMS tune as soon as i pass the 1000 mile mark on the odometer, so i needed it to be lightweight! so, out came the seats. fairly simple task, the bottom of the rear seat comes off by pushing down and rearward, then pulling up on it. next, my seats have the automatic fold down thing going on (which i'd never seen before) so i also had to pop off the connectors. 2 on the driver side, one on the passenger. afterwards, an 18mm socket popped the nuts off and the two sides of the rear seat come out individually (thank god). I really need to weigh them to see what my actual weight savings would be. here is everything removed I had to come up with a way to support the rear of the platform. since i was keeping the stock spare tire cover, my platform had to be built to butt up against it, but it had nothing to support it. So i decided to use the stock seat bolts that remained in the vehicle. I cut a 1" galvanized tube, and welded a flanged nut into it (for it to work on the seat bolt it needs to be 12mm x 1.75). it just so happened that the nut fit almost perfectly inside the tube, and so i hid the nut inside, and welded the flange around the outside... i left the tube long to start, so when i test fit the platform, i knew how tall to cut it to make a perfect fit. next i had to measure and make the platform, as well as a cutout for the tunnel in the center. fairly simple there. used some plywood, and some sturdy shelving angles that i found at home depot. they were $1.19ea so i grabbed 4 of them so i could hold the two pieces together at a 90degree angle and let the glue set. here is a shot of the underside of that: after test fitting the piece in the truck (without the tubes) i determined the height of the support tubes and cut and installed them on 2 of the seat bolts... they threaded right on with ease, no tools required! now i had to make sure the thing didn't slide around under accelerating, turning, and braking. so i decided to use the posts as a "locator" for a "pin" to lock it all into place. kind of like a little nipple so to speak. I used a smaller diameter tube that fit perfectly into the top of the support tubes, and screwed that into the main platform. the easiest way to do that was to put the two pieces together in the vehicle, set the platform on top of it, and then mark the holes. afterwards, just pull the platform back out and screw it in on your marks! now i was ready to test fit and everything went well. I went to the fabric store and picked up some outdoor furniture fabric. figured it would hold up to the abuse better than the felt type material they use in the rear hatch area. started in the front and stapled it down, then worked my way to the rear pulling it very tight as i went. the wife was certainly a help during this process. here is 2 shots of it all upholstered. finally dropped it in there and everything fit perfect! if i could do it again i would do a few things different. I would probably put a felt type material over the top of the sturdy material (for aesthetic purposes only) and i would go thinner on the plywood. i went 15/32 and probably could have skimped a bit more for better weight savings. currently I do not have any "sides" on it, so you can see all the stuff underneath, but I have 2 reasons for this. 1- it would be a lot more difficult to get in and out without scuffing up your door panels and such, and 2- it acts as an extra storage area, which i eventually plan to use as a long gun storage space. current plan is to just hang some of my extra fabric there so it looks good when the doors are opened, but here is a shot before i do that... so that was my fun time this weekend! sorry it was so picture heavy. hope you enjoyed it!

not good enough... might want to try these instead http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3401/overview/

I'm wondering the same. with the exception of nick, the pictures i've seen are all with the 21" wheels and i'm running the 20". not sure what the tire diameter difference is between the two.

I just picked up a set of H&R springs, i know some of you have been trying to find some online that are in stock. got them from raceconsultingagency.com for $244 for anyone not interested in waiting 2-3 weeks at tire rack.

just got the paperwork signed for a new 2016 edge sport, should be picking it up friday. been an old foxbody mustang guy my whole life, and a drag racer at heart. can't wait to pick this thing up and start putting some money into it!