Mikula

i wish i had this kind of money to spend on wheels!!

worth it? I've been chasing horsepower in vehicles since i was 16. hp gain per $$ is amazing with these tunes. maybe i live a sheltered n/a v8 life, but for $600 and gaining 170ft lbs of torque.. yes. worth every dime. the first time you foot brake the thing and it pulls the wallet out of your jeans, you'll be glad you pulled your wallet out of your jeans. get it? after talking to scott today, they have had confirmed runs in the 12's with their v3 tune.

chris is that a custom intercooler or something we can buy and modify to fit?

only had 2 runs that day, messed up both runs. (one had traction control on, the other wasn't in sport mode) spun quite a bit out of the hole, track prep wasn't that great. had two guys ahead of me in line blow a diff, so waited in staging lanes an hour for each. anyway ended up 13.39. the slow mo video shows my tires blowing off on that run. i'm betting on that tune on better track 13.10 or so once i get my 60ft time down

Winter? i've never heard of it?

maxpider kagu mats for me. better looking than any other i've ever purchased (actually i posted up here about it a few months ago). The weathertech i had in my 4 runner warped after some time, and never fit right after that. the other thing i don't like is the plastic cheap look. these maxpider i have now look incredible and hose right off should you spill anything on there.

count me in as usual! I wonder what the overall gains are though. On the first video I watched that they posted, it said: Stock: 225hp 254tq Tuned: 329hp 369tq now on that new video it says 312hp 423 tq hmmmmmm

like nick said, they may need to settle, but i find it weird that they are so far off from one side to the other. I would assume they'll equally settle and still end up 3/4 off from each other when all is said and done. fingers crossed that they level out though. and nick, tint those front windows fer christ sakes!

before you go, take measurements on all 4 corners from a few places. i measured from the lip of the rim to fender, and ground to fender. also when you take it to the shop, be absolutely sure to tell the technician that in order to do the rear he must drop the rear subframe (one side at a time). a lot of installers don't realize this, and what would normally take 30 minutes per side, takes 4- 5 hours. i'd hate to see someone have to pay for that kind of labor! better yet, just print him the instructions (thanks to snmjim) and give them to the guys doing the work. they can be found here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22579-h-r-sport-springs-on-g2-edge-sport/page-7 POST #132

Finished the install yesterday. They were fairly easy (except for the part where my top hat split in two, revealing the bearings inside, and the flat washer fell out and got covered in dirt and.... oh well nevermind) After finishing i measured the drop. 1.1" in the rear (both sides). the front dropped 1.25 inches on the driver side, and .625" on the passenger side. at this point i wasn't sure if it is a quality control issue or what. so this morning, i got back out there bright and early, pulled them out again, made sure everything was correct, and reinstalled. same outcome. nothing seemed wrong after yesterdays test drive. no weird sounds/pops/creaks. yes, they advertise "average" drop (1.2" front, 1.6" rear) but i'd say 1/2" less in the rear, and 50% less than advertised in the front isn't what i'd consider acceptable. anyone else have similar results? Maybe i'm the dummy for purchasing these for "look" rather than "function"

yep. it's great for emblems. it looks okay on wheels, but you can tell its plasti dip on larger surfaces like that. when you peel it off, it almost feels/sounds like a balloon. kind of latex like. does not harm paint or other surfaces. When i first bought my bike i wanted to see what it looked like with blacked out forks/primary cover/ and weels. and then i plasti-dipped the speedometer and emblems in white. i loved the look. kept the plasti dip for almost 2 years before finally peeling off and having emblems/wheels/speedo powdercoated. forks are still dipped to this day (3+ years later) I cannot attest to how difficult it would be to peel off after this extended period of time, but from what i understand, before you attempt to peel, you can spray another coat or 2 on top of your previous work, let it dry, and it makes peeling it a breeze. the tape is harder to peel off than the plasti-dip is. so that tells you how easily it comes off if you change your mind on another note though.. just de-badge that thing with some fishing line and goo gone, buy one of those blackout emblem overlays so no one knows its a ford, then once you have the lms tune, surprise some people down the 1/4 mile and they'll be wondering wtf minivan just dragged their ass

with plasti dip you don't need a knife or any fancy prep work. just put some tape around the emblem (maybe an inch away from the letters) and spray your coats of plasti dip. pull the tape after your last coat. when it dries, peel off the remaining plasti dip where you don't want it. a toothpick helps lift the corners of it for easy peeling between letters and such. not tedious at all.

bringing this back up... any more information as to how it was misaligned? i assumed if the bolts aligned all would be fine.

Ok I finished the fronts. my passenger front side sits 3/4" higher than the driver side (ground to fender). not sure if they will settle with time, but its quite noticeable as of right now. anyway, i didn't take off the wipers, but for everything else, here are the tools required: Flathead Screwdriver (for pushpins if you are removing the plastic wiper cowl trim) 8mm (for the screws holding the lower plastic tray) 13/16" for lugnuts 10mm for the brake line bracket 6mm hex for center of sway bar end link 18mm for sway bar end link nut 24mm for strut to spindle nuts*** ***Note that these bolts must be removed by taking the nut off, not by spinning the bolt head side. they have ridges/splines that keep them in place on the spindle. hammer (for smacking out the spindle mount bolts) 13mm for strut tower bolts 21mm for strut nut for top hat removal simple!

answered my own question. dealer said 26 ft lbs

anyone have torque specs or where to find them? the only one i'm actually concerned about is the top nut on the front strut. those springs are so much shorter than factory

To add a bit of information for the lazy mechanics out there, here are the tools needed for the rear (will update for fronts once i tackle them either today or tomorrow) Flathead Screwdriver (for pushpins) Wheel lugnut removal- 13/16" Brake line bracket bolt - 10mm socket Plastic cover - 7mm socket (with long extension for passenger side) Upper strut bolts - 18mm socket Subframe bolts - 24mm socket Subframe Torx bolts - T50 After walking back and forth from garage to driveway, I decided to post this info to help! 1st side took 50 minutes not knowing exactly what to do, and making constant trips back and forth! , 2nd side took 30 minutes. so they really are a quick job, especially with that write up!

a lot of people will forever be thankful for that info! well done

i do not know for sure... but there is no way this v6 sounds that good in cabin. i'd be absolutely shocked if they didn't pump sound in under full throttle. on the other side of the argument, why would they pipe in sound on comfy crossover? i hope someone has an answer

it depends where you live.. which is why the blanket statements found in this thread by some are inaccurate. in texas, they are legal if it is your tail lamps only, and they cannot remain flashing. 3rd brake light flashing is breaking the law. also, they cannot alternate flashes, they have to flash at the same time.

replacing the stock resonator with a magnaflow resonated x pipe (pn 11385) will tune up that buzzing (if you ever get so inclined)

i didn't intend to make it sound like it was "okay". endangering other drivers is (in my opinion) often different than annoying other drivers. If a brake light is annoying, it means you saw it, isn't that the point of someone installing these? i defend these because i ride. i have one on my bike. if it annoys every driver, i'm fine with that. if 1 person hits the brakes because they notice the flashing, then It did its job. I don't get into fender benders on my motorcycle. i get pushed into the middle of an intersection and run over.

i wish! i still have a flip phone!

pics or it didn't happen!!