Mikula

i bought an emblem overlay (off ebay) to cover the front and rear emblems. they work really well depending on what you're looking to do with it. mine say... well lets just say I used a 4 letter word that sounds like duck, and I used the ford script. matte black background, gloss black letters. its a nice conversation piece when guys at the track notice while trying to figure out what kind of vehicle it is (because it is otherwise debadged)

i use the torco which is nearly the exact same thing. i removed all the spare tire stuff for weight reduction.. of course that funnel was with it! track prep may be the issue with my 60' times, but i never have anyone to go with me to take a video of launch to see what is actually happening. on the street when i did a few test launches i noticed i get a lot of wheel spin out of the front wheels and none out of the rear. I assumed the AWD was smarter than that with traction control off

maybe i missed something. what does KR stand for?

WAY better for cornering! myself, i like the straight lines. BUT, I found out a few days ago that these edges oversteer, not understeer!

do you think a "fin" or some sort of chin spoiler type thing might direct some more air toward the stock intercooler and give it some more breathing room? i used to have one on a mustang to keep the radiator cool. something like this:

i don't know where you get these charts from but thank you! that is quite an insane jump in temps. real world is quite different than when they have a fan pumping air into it on the dyno.

a little tip about handling. most car manufacturers have your tire pressure in a very low range for "comfort". check the side of the tire. find the max psi number. take off 5-10% and fill your tires to that. you'll notice your handling is much better. my 20" say 51psi max. I keep them at 44lbs or so and the ride isn't as "soft" but the handling is improved. looks like your rear camber is like mine.

I figured i'd spin out of the hole so i kept the launches at 2k-2300 or so. not sure about the fuel blend. I bought torco octane booster to bring it up some, but left the funnel at home. stupid mistake!

any more luck with this? after yesterday at the track, i feel this issue is just destroying power under higher boost. the v3 tune was worse than the v2 tune at the track, and i think this is the major issue. cx racing makes a bunch of intercoolers and i know i could make something fit, but i don't know what size is in ours. anyone have Length, width, height and in/out size of it?

i've got 7k on the clock on mine. the guy definitely didn't know what he was doing. after looking at those specs there is no reason i should be that far off. maybe i just need to suck it up and take it to the dealer.

error on my last post. the DA of 1642 was in fact for my 13.56 run. best 60' has been 2.04 and that was with the v3 tune. all my runs have been between 2.04-2.07 60ft times on either tune

i paid 35k for the sport with 000026 miles on it.. so i'd say no. but mine was a 2016

i also have springs. 200lbs of weight reduction. yes I am in texas. conditions were relatively the same. DA for my 13.39 on the v2 tune was 1538 DA for the 13.82 on the v3 tune was 1642 I was fully expecting to get much closer to 12's, and it was quite a disappointment. i was expecting 330ft and 1/8 mile to improve (after looking at their dyno sheets) but that wasn't the case. slower in all aspects, not just top end

I was impressed with "seat of the pants" on this tune. I was very unimpressed with my time slips. Interested to see how other peoples times compare once they get out there and start tracking this newest tune. on v2 of their 93 performance tune i ran a best of 13.39@101.65 today on their v3 93 performance tune... garbage. 13.92@94 13.82@97.49 13.56@99.65 (after the sun went down) am i the only one seeing a decrease in top end power (opposite of what they were originally claiming with v3 tune) my 60ft times were nearly identical between v2 and v3. everything else from that point and beyond was slower, time and mph.

nick, my "after" rear camber is worse than your "before". i wonder if mine being AWD makes a difference. I'd like to see your other guys printouts if you find them!

After installing my springs a week ago, i went to get an alignment today. when i initially researched, a lot of people said i would not need any camber bolts. that being said, the guy doing the alignment said they got it as best they could, and i still have about 2.5* negative camber in the rear. that's pretty out there as far as i'm concerned. front is about 1.7* negative. anyone else have specs like this? or is this alignment guy a maroon?

and there he is! nothing to feel guilty about. i don't have the mod. but i know how many people have pouted on this site on other threads that i knew the select few would show up and whine

doesn't drive bright have the HID kit that will make them nearly the same color when your regular lights are on also? they sell a 6k color which should be close. that being said, i don't need anyone saying how bad of a person i am because HID are not designed to go into halogen housing blah blah blah blah merry christmas

i'll give you credit where it is due. it's an impressive run for our mini van ... but that guy was 1) a terrible driver 2) fighting idiots on bicycles the whole way (that idiot part is my opinion of course)

does livernois sell tires? because they could make good money off of people like me, blowing the rubbers off with this new tune! with traction control off i took a slow motion video to see how it would launch and how much it would spin. footbrake to 2200rpm and the front tires spun the first 10ft, rears only spun a little (2.5ft or so). gonna take some time getting used to new launch rpms thats for sure.

i got out when i could. it was 78 today.

oh, and the most impressive part: at 2500rpm v2 tune- 260ft lbs v3 tune- 390ft lbs

did that include an alignment and a full body massage from 2 asians? think of it this way, most shops charge about $100 an hour labor, and they'll charge 4 hours labor. roots is spot on.

hp numbers are pretty similar to what we had in v2. the curve on the dyno sheet looks comparable in either one. the tq curve however is quite different. it would appear that torque comes in sooner, lasts longer, and is higher just about anywhere above idle. looks like we'll have over 300ft lbs to the wheels from 2250rpm to 5900rpm (vs the v2 tune at 2650-5600rpm) i emailed them monday about the new tune, and still haven't received it. i can't WAIT!

Your best bet is to just call a dealer. they have the info you need. have your vin # handy. you might even have better results stopping by in person, they tend to take people more seriously. the rear subframe i used the impact gun and ran it down same as i would my lug nuts. not that its the technical way to do it.. but that's what i did.