Mikula

I just stated in that post.. i left the funnel at home!

That's an interesting thing to note. I will have to try that out, but i think traction control defeats the purpose then in my case. once slip is detected, doesn't it add brake pressure to the slipping wheels until the slippage has ceased? basically what i'm saying/asking is, with traction control on, it will detect traction loss and will use braking pressure to "slow me down" so to speak until there is traction (no use to me) and with traction control off, it won't be AWD, but you'll have all available power to the front wheels with no braking/traction control interference. either way, i'd prefer to mash the gas and have all 4 wheels have the same power where the thing just goes until you take your right foot off the heck yes pedal. I'm confused by your post a bit. I'm footbraking, not riding the brake while i accelerate. please elaborate for the dummy in me!

Strange issues you're having, scott. i get way better than advertised mpg on the highway, and my hwy driving is the 85mph roads here in texas. and thats with the 2.7 engine. also, i was thrilled with the stereo in this thing. coming from my bmw with the harmon kardon system i was quite impressed with the ford system. sully i agree with the rattles. unacceptable to have so much noise in a brand new vehicle. i managed to pinpoint mine and eliminate them, but i'm more of a DIY guy than a dealer person.. I've never had a good experience with a dealer.

if i would have known the awd wasn't like awd that i'm used to, i would have just gotten the fwd version. footbrake with traction control off and the front tires spin while the rears do nothing. guess i shouldn't have assumed anything, or maybe done more research on what it actually meant.

i do agree with your statement about the injector.. but keep in mind, just because the cylinder is misfiring intermittently, does not 100% mean its not a gasket issue. i say this because i had a cylinder that would intermittently misfire on a 98 4runner. car would shake, not accelerate, jump all over in the rpm range. then sometimes it would clear itself up, other times it would clear itself after i let it sit overnight. for whatever reason the plug would do its job some of the time, other times it was as worthless as a dead cylinder.

i like the look of them, and so far no issues or complaints. easy to clean/vacuum

forget the navigation on these. ford needs to do some more thinking beyond what they've done.. because it as absolutely awful. i tend to always print out some google maps before i take a trip, and if they are wrong, or i get lost, navigation helps me get back on track. otherwise, it takes me the LONG way most of the time (and yes i've checked the settings) welcome to the forums!

Well it took me 8k miles.. but after i beat up on an STi today.. the wife shouts, "that's right b*tch, you got beat by a boat" and it hit me.. I'm calling her (not the wife.. but the edge) The Black Pearl

personally, if it was me, i would pull plug 5 and swap it with a different cylinder. if #5 throws a code again, you have it narrowed down substantially. if #5 shows no signs after some mileage, then just get a new set of plugs and gap them properly. i was only mentioning a tune because ford loves to deny warranty claims based on any extra-curricular fart you do with a vehicle

I would definitely check other plugs and see what they look like. might tell you if its fuel quality, or running hot/lean. but in my opinion and my (not so) vast knowledge of automobiles, you shouldn't be having to put coolant in. wife bought her car brand new, i've been her oil change "specialist" since she got it. just flushed her coolant at 80k, but only once had to top it off, and that was last year at 65k. that's in central texas summers as well. i hope it isn't tune/exhaust related, or I will also be in for a treat in a few miles. I'm wondering if the tune or computer accounts for the exhaust pulling more air out and adjusts the a/f ratio. do you happen to have any tool or app or something to monitor air/fuel while you're driving it?

I usually say that is oil or fuel related but being only 1 cylinder is strange. any other engine i'd say the head gasket has an issue in the area of that cylinder, possibly letting coolant into the cylinder, but i don't know exactly how this motor was engineered. hell, i just learned the damn thing has an internal waterpump, so maybe someone else can step in here to help. did you pull any other plug to see if they look like this? or only the one that currently had the misfire? remind me again, is it tuned or stock? and what kind of mileage?

pour me a glass of something strong, maybe i'll see it if i go cross-eyed

i'm staring right at the mofo and i could be blind here, but i swear it doesn't say it. is someone messing with me? haha

the 2015 model is faster than the 2016 model according to motortrend. they've stated the 2015 model is lighter (109lbs) and faster.2015 model 0-60 at 5.7 1/4 at 14.3. the 2016 model 0-60 at 6.2 and 1/4 mile at 14.7. unfortunately i don't have statistics for the 2017 or 2018 model. i've been trying to figure out for quite some time how these guys are getting 12 second time slips and I can't get close. and that is what i've discovered after some digging also, i don't trust motor trend, because whoever signs the bigger check gets the bigger praise. you can slap an "independently tested" sticker on my butt cheek, that doesn't mean its valid.

my manual for '16 sport says nothing about using higher octane. recommends at least 87. doesn't once state or recommend to use 91 or higher. i just do because.. well.. habit i guess. Boooooooo!! Hissss!!

that mechanic hasn't driven one with a tune on it, or else he, too, would say screw the warranty!! ok all jokes aside I have not one time used anything but 93 octane since the moment i drove it off the lot with 26 miles on it. mostly because i've always been more concerned with detonation than coking, especially since i'm in texas and its got a turbo (or two). what i've learned over the years is that every single situation is inherently different. exact same mods to exact same vehicle with different results. or "ford sucks, i had one blow up on me" to "well i had the same vehicle last me 7 million miles". do what you feel is good and go with it. if mine blows up at 15k miles and no one elses has blown up with the same mods, then i was the unlucky one, and i'll sleep in the bed i made. after it has been tuned, yes, it could void the warranty if you take it in and theY check to see if it has been tuned. but yes, you can flash it back to stock before you take it to a dealer. same goes for a catch can (or any other mod for that matter). most mods can be switched back to stock, and no harm done to the warranty. though some of us aren't as mechanically inclined as others, which could pose a problem. this place (and most car dedicated forums) have some good people giving you their real world experience with things. take it with a grain of salt, and realize no 2 situations are identical. That said... BUY THAT EDGE SPORT, BE IN THE COOL KIDS CLUB WITH US, AND BEAT ON IT!

Took it back to the alignment shop today to see if he could adjust my rear camber some more. I learned a few things. 1) the guy is an idiot. said there was no rear adjustment. i went out there and showed him where the adjustment was. he proceeded to tell me it would adjust the toe also, and that he liked the toe where it was, so he didn't want to touch it. that is not entirely true. yes adjusting the camber would slightly adjust the toe, but it still would not have been out of spec. but i'm not in the business of arguing with a rookie, so i will take it elsewhere to get it adjusted. 2) my first alignment was about 150 miles after the H&R springs install. after comparing that printout, and this printout (after having driven it for 900 miles after springs were installed) they settled more than i expected. My previous camber reading on the rear left was -1.48. after the spring settled it was now at -2.29 to those that say the springs don't settle, they are obviously wrong. maybe not all springs settle, but mine sure as hell did. also, i was told camber bolts were not needed in the front. however I will say this. If you would like your camber to be adjustable, and/or closer to 0.0 definitely buy the camber bolts from specialty products, part number 81280 for $25 on amazon. now i'm not an advocate of running 0.0 degree camber, but i wanted mine to be around -0.5 and there wasn't enough play to get there. with the camber bolts, i can actually get positive camber out of the front. and they were so cheap, i'd recommend to anyone to buy them and put them in while you're doing the springs. not like its any extra effort, you already have everything apart and the bolts removed. just swap it into the top strut bolt position and you're set. previous front reading was -1.5* and i had him bring it to -0.7 which was worth it to me

sometimes technology is not a good thing! We have nearly an identical rollover rating as a ford fiesta. these are damn fine performing crossovers!

Engineers run hundreds of tests to determine what intervals to do any service. engine especially. Ford would not want to give you a false number that would cause a premature engine failure, as that would look bad in every aspect of purchase/resale/etc. my service manual says 10k miles or whenever the oil life monitor instructs you to do so. with all that mumbo jumbo being said, i will ALWAYS change my oil every 3500 miles or so. Royal Purple full synthetic went in at 3650, and i just did my oil change again at 7525. maybe its habit. maybe i'm paranoid.

when i first saw the thumbnail, i thought you put some turf down on the platform as a permanent thing!! That would have been epic.

injector may cause it to act like that. usually i say plugs or coils but obviously you've already been there. since you apparently already have good spark, I start checking fuel next. then go to compression checks.

everyone is different. I enjoy projects like that. I was a welder/fabricator for years, and just recently started to try working with wood. it was a saturday project that i'm 100% sure my dog does NOT appreciate. like your pup, i'm sure she could care less! side note though, if you ever build a platform, don't cover it in a waterproof outdoor material. sounded like a great plan at the time. give it a little gas from a red light and she slides all the way to the hatch no matter how much she tries to dig her nails in. learned that one the first week!

yes that should all be good. maybe i just got a slow one from the factory!

now THAT, is a weird setup. I'm sure it serves its purpose. damn those engineers!

water/antifreeze in the oil is almost always a head gasket. if they drained the antifreeze and didn't fill it then i'd say they are liable. if all they did was the belt, i don't see it being related. if it overheated it could have very well blown the head gasket. weird that you have no batter power though. almost like the alternator wasn't working either.. which is belt driven. slippage in the belt? like they put the wrong size on? strange series of events