snmjim

Not much difference, other than a little more of a growl...

As promised... However, at this time we only have the Dyno sheet & gains HP/Torque analysis to provide, just waiting for a good DA day to post Qtr time slips... Xtra & 037 thanks for your patience! :happy feet: :happy feet: :happy feet: 2016 Edge Sport Before and After Dyno Tune Sheet.pdf 2016 Ford Edge Sport HP & Torque Comparative.pdf

As far as exhaust signature same here. However, if your one of those who like that blow off valve sound it can be adjusted to sound off earlier but remember it's a "BLOW OFF" valve therefore your dumping valuable performance pressure..

For that batch it has sailed. However, key word here being "THAT BATCH"... If you go back into this topic string (Post #48) for the manufacture (ADDCO) POC: John and give him a call he may be willing to produce another batch if you can generate enough interest to meet his minimum Qty number.... Recommendation: to Gen up enough interest you should include soliciting the Face Book Edge community in addition to this Forums...

Would definitely appreciate the Pics & a DIY Eval of the quality, form, fit, function!

FYI: when you go to: www.weathertech.com/ford/2016/edge You will receive the following notice: "No-Drill MudFlaps are not available for your 2016 Ford Edge".

Anxiously looking Fwd to your Eval of the quality, form, fit, function!

I'm in the market for functional quality custom fitting mud flaps as well. Please keep us posted as to your findings... FYI, Early on we found that the Ford optional molded mud flaps for the front or maybe it was the rear, not sure which ones, would fit but I wanted a full set. Hopefully since a year has passed you'll have better results...

General Turbo replacement Pics Ref post #299 in this topic string...

Rear Turbo replacement Pics Ref post #299 in this topic string...

Front Turbo replacement Pics Ref post #299 in this topic string...

Awesome ride man & so love the color! Thnx 4 the Kudos, we try our best to support the platform & owners. Thnx so much for reposting our front & rear step-by-step DIY PDF that we initially posted of which the forums site broke and we've misplaced in our files and have yet to find it for reposting...lol Thnx to you we'll be able to update the broken PDF link in the initial post. We really appreciate your support...

Thnx redlancer 4 the support. We've emailed Admin about the broken PDF link who sent us direct to the site owner, of which theres been NO response 4 Wks later. Just one more thing with this site that's demotivating our efforts.

Patience people we just got back from National Speed in Richmond, VA who did the Dyno Tune. We trailered the car down per their strong recommendation and SpecialK had the honor of doing the 125+ mile drive back of which he was able to achieve 30 mpg at 65-70 mph from an Edge Sport that just exceeded 400 whp!!! Dyno sheet soon to follow in addition to track slips once we manage to get there. We still have a few more horses to squeeze out of her without opening the motor by simply upgrading the HPFP of which we hit that ceiling. In addition...wait for it...National Speed has agreed to work with us to develop & fabricate down pipes, hi flow & Catless and stock them as a rotable shelf stocked item. However, this will not go prime time until they're finished Dyno testing the value added. BTW, those who elect to harass SpecialK & I about our R&D and development efforts will only ruin this labor of love benefit for everyone else. I say this because we are at our limit with the lack of appreciation from the few on this forum & mostly FB.

We posted a DIY Doc of which it is highly recommended against dropping the entire rear subframe but instead one side at a time in an effort 2 retain alignment. BTW, we didn't have 2 drop the exhaust, it wasn't N the way...;-)

Agreed for some and I so wish that applied here but not in this case...

Time to get back on topic & let the cat out of the bag... The modified Turbo change out has taken place and the following is intended as supplemental Info to the Ford Factory Service Manual (FSM) and not a Do It Yourself (DIY) replacement Inst. If you follow the 2016 Edge Sport FSM to the letter, of which we tried, it will only accurately cover the removal of the Turbos themselves however, accessing them is a whole nother beast and definitely should ONLY be attempted by the experienced Tech/gear head with a complete tool inventory and preferably a lift, at least to do the rear Turbo... DO YOUR HOMEWORK FIRST using the FSM, your going to need it!!! Logistics: Use the Ford FSM to ID all required O-rings, gaskets & hardware per the following... O-rings for Turbo coolant lines (x2) and oil lines (x2) per Turbo (x2 Turbos) Turbo oil line screens/filters (x2) Gaskets for Turbo to head and Cat to Turbo (x2 Turbos) Attachment locking nuts for Turbo to head and Turbo to Cat (x2 Turbos) O-rings for Front A/C lines Drain the following fluids or you will be working in a slippery pool. BTW, no matter how well you drain any of these fluids your still going to have pockets of fluid break loose as you lift & lower the car and tilt the motor, so have your drip pans at the ready... Anti-freeze (Ford only) PTU (Ford only)...WARNING: use the wrong stuff and all it takes is one drive to condemn it... Transmission (Ford Only) Helpful hints: - Remove passenger side CV shaft and clam shell bracket and housing for added access to rear Turbo. - Remove drive shaft for access to rear Turbo. - Remove exhaust Sys from Turbo down pipes back for access to rear Turbo. - Remove all cold air tubes & boost tubes for Turbo access. - Remove the RMM to enable you to tilt/rotate the motor from the bottom front using an exhaust jack screw stand to increase accessibility to the rear Turbo. - Vacuum a/c in preparation to break a/c lines in order to remove cooling table as an Assy. - Remove the front fascia and cooling table as an Assy (a/c condenser/Trans cooler, radiator & fans) to access the front Turbo. - Put new O-rings on all Turbo lines and counter bend hold down tab where hold down bolt goes. - Keep all old O-rings, gaskets & hardware until car is tested, you may need to use an old o-ring like we did after cutting one in half because we were to forceful during install... - Seat all Turbo lines (O-rings) flush by hand first before tightening the hold down bolts. Easier said than done, it's all about lubricating the o-ring, being flush and firm steady pressure in areas with little room. Note: when removing the lines be very careful about where you leverage the tube, bend one and realignment will be difficult. Wedging it off it's seat improperly can damage the sealing surface. - Be very careful with the top nut on the exhaust to Tubo flange stud, we spent 30-60 min trying to unjam a one way ratcheting box wrench that became wedged between that nut and the o2 exhaust flange seat casting on the rear Turbo... - Remove o2 sensor on top of rear Cat to gain access to the top exhaust to Turbo flange nut. - Pull front Turbo and Cat as an Assy due to a/c compressor clearance. - Before Turbo reinstallation...install the one feed line that's on the back side of the Turbo, sandwiched between the Turbo and block, or you will be unable to access well enough to achieve a tube seal after the Turbos attached. Also do this for the back Turbo top line. - Put your Batt on a maintenance charge . Ref front Turbo Pics = post #308 Ref rear Turbo Pics = post #309 Ref general Turbo Pics = post #310 .....

$150

Most of everyone's answers are on page 3 post 48. We put a lot of time, effort & $$ into our R&D & write ups to make life easier for all of you but our efforts are in vain if your not reading them.

2016 Ford Edge Sport AWD on stock 20" wheels = 4460 lbs

Being the R&D platform, design team and having the first bar SpecialK & I would have to disagree with the urgency but do agree with installing the locks. However, note that as of today we have been thrashing our platform fairly abusively at times and have yet to find evidence of the bar making any contact in its tight tolerances with the Elect brake calipers or the springs. Yes, we have ordered locks as well but only as a logical precautionary measure... BTW, the tolerances change significantly when the car is on the ground and has been rolled out to level the suspension before measuring...;-)

Manu, please put this post in the "Ultimate" build topic so SpecialK can add it to the list...thnx!

When you figure out the lateral locks let us know, i'm interested...