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My car has lots of mods so I cannot speak of how the TB effects a otherwise stock car. I was happy with the OEM TB when my car was stock and had no need to change it. As akirby said Ford optimizes the TB size for balanced power and to match the other intake components. I know that the TQ is up, not just by my but but by the way the tires break loose . All I have to do is punch the throttle ( not all the way open ) and the tires will break loose from 20 to 50 MPH easy. I want to record this somehow. We will see ?

This is good news as the PTU can and has had problems with heat in the past. I am happy that Ford knows this and has addressed the problem. Now if ford would only drop in the 3.0TT with 400+ HP and add a duel clutch transmission I would trade in my car pronto. As Ford is dropping cars and moving into Trucks, SUV and Crossovers it only makes sense to add performance to the crossover / hot hatch line of vehicles to stay competitive in this new market strategy.

This is a very important part of the install. Now that the new TB is installed and the old memory has been erased, start the car and let it idle for 15 minutes. Make sure that all accessories are off , no radio headlights anything. Do not disturb the car by opening the doors or windows. just start it, get out of the car and let it run for the full 15 minutes . During this time the idle will re-calibrate and smooth out. After the full 15 minutes take the car for a test drive, just drive it normal not hard or baby it. This will let the transmission reset the shift points of the car. After I did this my car ran much smoother. Some of the NVH in the cabin I attributed to the RMM at idle was just rough idle. This trick smoothed out the idle completly. The new TB works great and it is just what the car needed. It runs smoother and has more power than ever before. I believe that the new BBK 65MM TB complements the Comp Turbos, UPIC and the RamFab Pipe, it is just what the Dr. ordered.

Now just bolt in the new 65mmTB with the four 8mm bolts. Attach the control cable and push down on the red locking tab. Reattach the hose and tighten the hose clamp. Hook up the negative battery terminal and put on the engine cover. It took me around 45 min to this job. It was super easy to do.

Now use a 8mm wrench to loosen up the 4 bolts on the TB. I got them all broke loose then I took out the bottom bolt closest to the firewall first as it is the hardest to get to. After removing the OEM TB make sure the "O" ring is in place and clean before installing the new BBK 65mm TB.

Next unplug the wire harness. Lift up on the red locking tab then remove the plug.

Locate the throttle body and loosen the hose clamp, then remove the hose . The clamp will stay attached to the hose as it is designed that way .So just loosen it up and remove the hose.

The first thing to do is remove the engine cover and then remove the negative battery terminal. Touch the negative terminal to the positive terminal to discharge the memory capacitors . This will allow the system to relearn the idle and the new throttle body curve.

I just completed the install of the BBK 65 Throttle Body on my 2016 Edge Sport. The BBK 65mm Throttle Body is on the right . Stock 60mm is on the left.

A couple photos of the install.

15% is over twice as dark as mine @ 35%. 35% is as dark as I dare go, you can still see into the car .

Just had the front windows tinted with 35% Nano Ceramic tint. DUB-R tint is what I chose because of the way it keeps the IR and UV out. I compared different manufactures tint samples over a heat lamp and this DUB-R Nano Ceramic tint was amazing at keeping the heat out. As the roof of the car is glass I had the BAMR tinted as well with 70% just to keep the inferred and UV out as much as possible . The summer gets very hot here in So Cal and I could tell the difference compared to the tint I had removed. The cabin is more comfortable and the AC works better now. I no longer feel the suns heat on me through the glass. http://www.dubirtint.com

Finally got around to installing the JLT catch can today. The install is super easy and quick, it only takes a few minutes with basic hand tools. It took me around 15 minutes because I had to R&R the Strut Tower Cross Brace otherwise it is a 10 min job. Having the hose pre cut to length with snap on connectors makes it super easy and neat. The finished install looks OEM except the JLT logo is cut into the bracket. If the JLT logo was not there you would never know it was a aftermarket item. I gave it a test drive and everything check out fine. I will report what it catches after 1,000 miles. For cost, ease of install and OEM looks the JLT catch can is hard to beat. I can also restore the car to stock for smog inspections just as easy and fast. The peace of mind it gives protecting the heads and valves is worth the price alone. It is a good fix for a basic design flaw by Ford.

Gave it more gas and took it to around 5,800 rpm, it has much better top end than ever before and pulls hard all the way. I still haven't just floored it off the line yet and let it shift at red line. Or held the brake, let the turbos spool up and give it all she's got. I am taking it slow until I can get some feedback on the dyno.

I just got my car back from GAS and one of the first things I noticed was more NVH in the cabin at idle. I had the CP_e 60 Duro RMM installed and although it is not bad it is noticeable. It does take away from the Edge Sport's super quit luxury cabin at idle. Don't get me wrong it is not that bad the moment you accelerate off idle it goes away. If you are not experiencing wheel hop then you don't need this part. If you have experienced wheel hop then the CP_e 60 Duro RMM is the way to go. It will cut your times and save driveline parts from damaging shock loads.

My car is fixed up like new and I had a chance to drive it a little. When putting around in stop and go city traffic there is no difference at all. I was just cruising at around 30 mph and decided to open it up a little . I punched it to 3/4 throttle, it down shifted and broke the tire loose. I accelerated to around 50 MPH with the tires complaining all the way. Seat of the pants say it is as strong with the stock tune as it was before the mods with the V3 tune. I have yet to run full throttle I am going to baby it until I can get it on a dyno and know it is safe to run wide open.

Mods to my 2016 Edge Sport 1. Salvaged 2016 Ford Edge Sport 2.7 EB Turbos - Car Part .com 2. Salvaged Turbos rebuilt and modified by Comp Turbos ( Compressor Wheel spec. ) Stock - 6 blade cast 40/51mm. Modified Intake, hogged out to fit 11 blade 44/57mm CNC billet Wheel. It now has faster spool up and makes max boost at lower RPM. 3. Comp Turbos, Turbo blankets 4. Ultimate Performance Intercooler with Garrett Core 5. Air intake Hack on grill 6. Muffler heat and sound shield wrap 7. Custom Performance Engineering Rear Motor Mount, 60 Duro. Reduces wheel hop. 8. RamFab Cold side IC pipe 9. A-Fe drop in Air Cleaner 10. 3.5 inch Quad chrome tips 11. MRT Axle-back Mufflers 12. Rotora Street Challenge Brake System - 6 pot - 380mm X Drilled front, 4 pot 350mm X Drilled rears 13. H&R progressive lowering springs - Tire Rack 14. Michelin Pilot Sport 4S 265/40 R21 Summer Tires 15. Custom Dyno tune by J.R. Granatelli @ Granatelli Motorsports Oxnard, CA 16. Custom CNC IC grill. Opened it up for more airflow to the IC 17. Strut tower cross brace 18. Reflective Tape inside doors and rear hatch. Visible only when open. 19. Custom design wrap 20. Nano Ceramic Tinted side windows and BAMR that helps to reduce interior heat. 21. 4K Dash Cam with a polarizing filter 22. Reische Performance 170* Thermostat 23. BBK 65mm Throttle Body 24. JLT Catch Can 25. NGK-6510 - LTR7IX-11-ECO Spark Plugs One step colder than stock gapped @ .029. 26. ADDCO rear sway bar 1.250 inch with Whiteline locks 27. TurboSmart Kompact Shorty - Dual Port TS-0203-1081 Blow Off Valve 28. Custom made fiberglass Sight Shield for cooler air intake with less restriction. 29. 0>60mph... 4.65 seconds from a dead stop..... With a one-foot roll out like they do in most car Magazines 4.29 Seconds, 1/4 mile in the 12's

The links do not cost very much and are easy to replace when installing the new bar.

I've got parts. I am going to set the bar on the stiffest setting... When they are made and delivered that is. Then my car can go away for another week or two for what should be a one hour job.

If it is not one thing it is another it has been a full month and I am still waiting. The performance work is done. The warranty work is done. But my car was vandalized and suffered some minor damage. The hood wrap and a dent in the hood is the worst of it there is some scratches in the rear trunk hatch , some scratches and small dents in the drivers door and the headlight wrap was messed up as well. about $3,500 worth. Some people are haters so don't take your custom bitchen' car into the barrio.

Turbo Mania :happy feet:

One more to go, ten or more have signed up but so far only 9 have stepped up. If one more will step up then production can begin by Monday. If no one steps up. Well ............ everyone will be SOL. Come on people don't let this opportunity pass by.

John has my info