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Everything posted by NoDTMF
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On the the Facebook group a member bought mud flaps from China. So I order them, they arrived, here is a sneak peek...I hope to put them on this weekend https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Splash-Guards-Mud-Flaps-Front-Rear-For-Ford-Edge-2015-2017-sport-version/312044726751?hash=item48a750a9df:g:gaUAAOSwoddaWa-R&vxp=mtr
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Yeah...well remember I dropped the complete subframe, that probably had something to do with it. But I haven't heard of anyone lucky enough to get it in-spec using either replacement method. Next up is mud flaps that are supposed to fit the Sport trim. we'll see.
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Hi all, Finally took the Edge in for alignment...about a month later after my self install of the springs. Front was not too bad, rear was out.
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Hi all, Finally took the Edge in for alignment...about a month later after my self install of the springs. Front was not too bad, rear was out.
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Well,I went re-read the notes to see if I missed something. In the Fusion forum I did find these tips (that echo my experience) from one of the guys that did the install: Rears: -lowering subframe is more tricky than alluded too early in this thread. -passenger side was tough. Exhaust keeps it from dropping enough. Gotta muscle it. I also had to loosen drivers side subframe bolts to get spring out -driver side subframe drops easily. Much quicker. Do this side first. -remove splash guards covering Torx 50 and front subframe bolt. I didn’t. Harder to work around but possible. When I got to the stage of loosening the the driver's side bolts I just took them out. I remember worrying that I might bend the bolts when one side was hanging significantly lower. I have been driving it for a couple of weeks and will take it for an alignment, so we'll how far out it is. It feels fine. If I had to do it again, I would remove the exhaust from the hangers and drop both sides. No forcing of anything required. But you need at least 2 floor jacks and a bottle jack (and Bourbon)
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hmm thats odd. Yes used your docs! Not sure how you did it one side at a time. Also not sure that actually helps/hinders alignment, both sides were removed. I put zillions of marks all over to help in the re-assembly. I go for an alignment check next week!
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LoL..
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will do. here are some other tips You need to remove the top shock mounts of the rear shocks or the subframe won't go low enough because the shock will limit its drop.. You should take the exhaust off the hangers and let it hang lower. Otherwise the sway bar rests on the exhaust stressing the system when trying to get the springs out. I found you have to fully disconnect both sides of the subframe...hence completely disconnected. I used 2 floor jacks to support, lower and raise. Once the subframe is hanging, your 1st thought is "how the hell am I going to get it to line up." (That's when I broke out the Bourbon) Oddly I think the springs force the alignment when jacking up the subframe. The service manual say the rear subframe Torx bolts are to be torqued to 76 ftlb. Mine weren't on that tight, and when tightening that just seemed too tight for those bolts into the frame. I stopped at 60 and used blue loctite. EDIT Misread the manual, Torq is 41 ftlbs! I wrote down all the torques specs except I have to find them.
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Hi All, I just did my own install on 2017 sport of HR springs and Adeco sway bar. I will publish some tips on the install and include torque specs as well. The above torque spec for the Strut top nut is wrong...it is like 90ftlbs or so...I will check later. I think the plate bolts are 26ftlbs...again I need to check when at home. Anyway the ride is stiffer, and the handling much better, mostly because of the stiffer sway bar. I ran the sway bar for a week before doing the Spring install Some quick tips are on the FordSportEdge fb page
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Any of you guys weighed your Edges? I weighed mine today...4780 that seems heavy, but I do carry tools and stuff. Any idea how the Granatelli tune would compare without the physical mods to the other tuners out there? I realize that is a nebulous question, but we have seen LMS and Unleashed compared on the strip....
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2016 Edge Sport (G2) Front & Rear Sway Bars
NoDTMF replied to snmjim's topic in Brakes, Chassis & Suspension
awaiting the arrival of mine. We need new bolts for the bushing mounts? -
Comprehensive List of Possible Forscan Mods?
NoDTMF replied to ben senise's topic in Accessories & Modifications
Also another thing Ive seen in the tuning software and not in the forscan codes is the setting to leave the grill shutters completely open all the time. I set mine to open all the time. Ford says the shutters are for gas mileage. I got ~22 mpg on a 200 mile trip this weekend of freeway drivway at various speeds and cruise control. -
Cool thing is you can log with that. You can even see how well you brake boost by simply logging the RPMs....
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Comprehensive List of Possible Forscan Mods?
NoDTMF replied to ben senise's topic in Accessories & Modifications
It doesn't work that way. HP Tuners somehow figured out the memory location for the gear indicator. I bought the HP Tuner hardware and Unleashed used HP Tuner hardware to tune me remotely (I has to do like 80 WoT runs) So I can see the menu to enable the for Drive ,Sport, Sand, etc. Unleashed just uses HP Tuners to change the parameters. Did LMS give you the Forscan codes? It seems this setting is in the ECU, not seen many Forscan codes for that. -
On Ford Edge Sport Facebook page there is a some logging comparisons, it shows LMS boost higher than Unleashed. But boost is affected by so many things so it probably isn't statically relevant. Just thought I would mention it.
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I emptied my JLT Catch Can today after 3000 miles in sunny California. I got about 7 ml. I have no idea why this would be illegal in CA, it a closed system, it probably just needs to be submitted for approval.
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For most accurate logging I use HP Tuner on a PC or nGauge. But there are a number of apps using a wireless OBDII dongle that will give you some logging info. The problem is they are very coarse in their data collection. SCT also make a nice monitoring device.
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My Unleashed Tune will go into 6th if just driving on the freeway and constant speed while in Sport. All this is tunable. You can ask the Tuner to turn on the gear indicator as well to see what gear it is in for both Drive and Sport.
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Comprehensive List of Possible Forscan Mods?
NoDTMF replied to ben senise's topic in Accessories & Modifications
So I wasn't looking at this thread for a while. I did not try all the mods, I was just posting ones I had seen. -
Ford to offer SmartLink OBD add-on for pre-17 models?
NoDTMF replied to RedEdge16's topic in Accessories & Modifications
Trying to delete a post by mistake -
I have Unleashed tune, the max boost for me occurs when the transmission shifts, roughly 21psi. That is because the RPMs lower while the turbo is still spinning high and creates a peak condition. My operating boost is around 18psi. RE: Seeing just under 21 PSI max boost When do you see that occurring?
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yeah, my test track is a slightly uphill merge lane. Also I had nothing tuned in my transmission and I see some odd things. Attached is a graph and you cans see the Torque converter slipping, or something on the 2nd to 3rd shift. Also in this graph something else happened, the shift from 1->2 happened to early (~5100 rpm)...why? (in Sport mode, Traction control off) Does anyone have an LMS tuned log they could share. Be interesting to see the shifts.
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Is this the end of any FORScan mods?
NoDTMF replied to tk2fast's topic in Accessories & Modifications
So, If Ford were to sell a "consumer package" to replicate Forscan, would you buy it? (I probably would) Also what does this mean for the Tuner hardware like LMS, HP Tuners, SCT etc? It seems to me there is some reverse engineering going on there as well? -
The the 20+ is peak boost when the engine shifts...the rpm's lower but the turbos are still spinning. If that peaks too high you will get an over boost condition code. The IAT's are high and I guess that is why some are replacing the charge pipe and IC. Somewhere in the 2.7 engine section is some data on with a aftermarket IC.
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hi, What I was trying to do, was add a in-line low pass filter. I did some frequency sweeps and it seems that everything under 300 Hz is sent to the sub. I think that is where the muddiness comes from. I disconnected the sub just to hear it things sound. It was better, but the all the speakers receive full range as well. I would prefer to cut-off all the speakers at about 150 Hz, maybe less and send that to the Sub. I gave up on the inline filter because of the low impedance sub, like 2 ohms, which makes the LPF design and tolerance quite critical. Basically I have given up doing anything for now. I assume with after market sub you can set you cross-over which should help.