KLinNBC

The arguments about yellow/white light are many (I like Daniel Stern's papers on human vision and how our eyes function better with selective yellow light) with no definitive conclusion so I'll back off on that issue. Regardless of colour, creating a bright pool of light right in front of your bumper seriously degrades your distance vision. At anything over 20mph distance vision is the priority. Turn the lights off! Agreed! I have a 1.6km (1 mile) long driveway with 7 switchbacks and they are useful in that situation especially because anything over 10mph is suicidal.

Ahhh, one of my favourite rants. In the vain hope of getting all of you driving around with your "fog" lights on here are some basic facts: THOSE ARE NOT FOG LIGHTS!!! Proper fog lights are yellow/amber ONLY for good reason. The frequency of the yellower light (along with the low mount. precise cut-off and wide beam as mentioned by the Wiz) has less diffraction/throwback into the drivers eyes. In truly foggy conditions running good fog lights with headlights OFF will allow you to see better/farther. Also unless you can turn off your headlights the yellow fogs are not much help. What is on all vehicles today is a style-driven, useless thing properly referred to as DRIVING LIGHTS. Originally these were for illuminating the road immediately in front of the vehicle when travelling at very slow speeds. Like off-road situations. In regular night driving that area that they illuminate IS MEANINGLESS TO YOU because you're travelling at a speed (anything over 20mph) such that you've already passed that piece of ground before you can even react to it. If you're looking down at that piece of ground you're not looking where you should be which is down the road in front of you at what's coming!. More importantly, that bright pool of light in front of your bumper causes your pupils to adjust such that your vision for the distance is reduced. So driving at night with those low, white lights on is actually reducing your distance visibility and making you less safe. Not to mention annoying and blinding oncoming drivers. Please, turn them off!

Well, we don't matter very much because... we are peanuts in terms of the big picture. Oh well. Talk to the Aussies who no longer have auto manufacturing in their country. RIP Holden. In any event, wheels are the lest of your worries. I have for many years ignored what came with, used those for winter rims and bought aftermarket for what I really wanted as a look. We are fortunate to have a motorcycle gearhead in the Kootenay who does powder coating well for great prices. I got the 21"rims on my 2016 Sport in high gloss black for $280 Hudson Bay Pesos. Looks the biz.You'd have to go to the mainland but my Experience with Green's in Richmond has been very good. Great quality at descent pricing.

Nothing surprising here, was the same with 2016 Sports: 400A or 401A. The only thing I really wanted in the 401A was the heated steering wheel and that was going to cost me $5800 and I'd get a whole lot of stuff I didn't want. I bought new gloves instead. This has been the case with Toyota for decades, two or three packages take em or leave em. Main reason I don't own a Tacoma: couldn't get heated seats in an Access Cab, only in the 4 door crew... which had the turning circle of a small battleship.

If you're rubbing really hard you can scratch/damage the clear coat. A bug & tar remover (Turtle Wax is good) will probably work but you will need to work patiently and change cloth often. A clay bar will also work wonders but also requires a certain level of skill and patience. Based upon your post here your best choice is to take it o a reputable, professional detailer and pay them to do it. Couple of hours at $50/hr is likely the price. There are no weird trees.

Interesting. Our 2016 Sport did exactly the same thing a week after I bought it, no washing. Simply pulled into the driveway, hit the button and everything shut down... except the engine. Don't recall about the red wrench. I held the button and it shut off. Upon restart all settings were defaulted and the phone link gone. Never did it again so I never posted about it (joined the list months after). I actually wondered if I was losing it, if it really happened.

Like Omar, I'm not saying that a catch can is good or bad. Ford, however, is saying that the oil in the intake tract is beneficial to valve seat life which infers that a catch can to remove the oil is detrimental. First time I ever heard that valve seats benefit from lubrication. I do agree that coking in SOME direct injection engines has been a problem, often a big problem. Whether it's an issue specifically in the EB 2.7 would be good to know.

The statement about the oil in the intake tract contributing to valve seat durability (which Omar highlighted in red) speaks directly to this topic, I believe, in that it says the oil is a good thing so maybe taking it out with a catch can is not a good thing. Appears to be the Furd position.

The deed is done. And the punch line is... Furd once again revised the part story. In the end the glass panel was available, the entire BAMR frame was not replaced. Big props to Nelson Ford, roof looks like it came from factory and didn't cost me a cent.

A few weeks ago the rear glass panel on our 2016 Sport (about 9000 miles on it) cracked and spidered while I was going up our driveway, bumpy at about 20mph. Off to the dealer, inspection and many photos and Ford agrees to cover under warranty. So far so good. dealer orders the glass and... it's not available. The parts catalogue shows a separate rear glass panel with a part number but apparently that's an error. The only way to replace the rear glass is to replace the entire BAMR, frame, mechanisms glass as a complete assembly. Part price over $6000 Hudson Bay Pesos, about $4500 US. Still honouring warranty approval. Whew! Just worried now about the finished repair: will the BAMR work, look proper and will the interior including headliner be as perfect as before? Anyone else have this glass replaced?

I suggest that there are so many uncontrolled variables in a drag strip run that drawing conclusions about engine power from 1/4 mile times is a fools game. Input air temperature is easily measured and subject to only ambient air temp as a variable. A significant reduction in IAT will certainly result in significant benefit including more pressure from the turbos, more timing advance and more power. Incremental improvements for a well-balanced, utility vehicle that provides me with a few grins now and then. This is not a vehicle I bring to the strip or track.

I applaud the enthusiasm and efforts of K and Jim. It seems obvious that the new pipe would provide some positive flow improvements and for $230 I'm probably in. I really don't care about actual definitive quantitative results in regards to 1/4 mile performance, I'm sure it's somewhat better and like I've stated previously: any improvement in IAT temperature and/or heat management is good for this engine. It's not like these guys are trying to get rich selling us snake oil. Looking forward to more when the new IC is incorporated.

I'm with you. Really happy with the Edge Sport, near a Porsche Cayenne S for 100 large (well, Hudson Bay pesos) less and really comfortable, too. But really, If I had the dough I'd own a Stelvio or a RR Velar in a heartbeat. The Edge is awesome value but how many of you, if offered the Edge Sport, Stelvio or the Velar, all for free, would drive away in the Edge?

I want to know actual IAT's, if the drop is near the 70* claimed by UP then I'm in. I know there will be some performance improvement but that kind of temperature drop will yield many other benefits. Heat is the enemy of not just power but also efficiency, longevity and more. The EB engines are pretty stressed out of the box and any meaningful relief of that stress will be worth the investment.

Not necessarily unsafe if installed correctly but can be hard on wheel bearings as the angle of thrust is moved away from the design. Further, most certainly has a detrimental effect on handling as hanging a big weight further out messes a lot with the suspension design. And there's the added weight of the adapters. At a minimum you need adjustable rebound and dampening to compensate but that will reduce the effect, not eliminate or improve. All these factors also relate to the bigger rim trend: metal weighs a lot more than rubber and air. Going from a 21" to 22" rim has measurable effect, going from an 18" to a 24" is nuts if you care about performance and drivability. Race cars of all varieties have small rims and big rubber (sidewalls). There is a reason for this...