bronxbomerss2

Well it's confirmed. Drove her back and forth all day today without one issue starting up! What an odd situation this one turn into but thank goodness I stumbled upon it--persistence sometimes pay off! Thanks all for your help and suggestions!

well I may have just solved the problem (hopefully). On a last ditch effort I wanted to check the ignition starter switch to see if perhaps that was loose. Well lone and behold I noticed a blue blinking light under the drivers side foot well. I thought that was odd. I clicked the button and it honked the horn as if i was locking the doors. I pulled the trim paneling off and found a little black box. Digging even further I found spliced wires into existing OEM wire runs. I pulled the box and it has a logo that says "Pursuit" and I quickly googled it and see it's an aftermarket alarm system. I bought the car from the 2nd owner private-party so he made no mention of that to me. I disconnected the system and she fired right up! This was immediately preceding a no start! I can't find a part # but it appears many of these systems have a starter disrupt feature; which explains the no start dispute my many attempts of trouble shooting a non-issue! I'm guessing after a certain period of time the system restarts which allowed me to start the car. Fingers crossed this was the issue!!!

No crank. Just completely dead. But this morning I tried and it fired right up. I havent vacuum tested the EGR valve but I plan to later today.

I just performed voltage tests on the battery, starter, and starter relay terminal and all came back 12.74 V as they should. This tells me the starter is receiving the necessary power to operate normally and the starter is brand new so I know that can't be the culprit. My suspicion would be a faulty relay (didn't test it yet but did swap out blower motor relay to compare and both failed to start the car when it wasn't running), ignition starter switch, or something else electrical I haven't gotten to yet. Any other opinions are welcomed! If i can't get this figured out by tomorrow I'll have to give it to the dealership to diagnose as I'm mentally exhausted from this one.

Okay so I was able to start the car just now and I let it idle for about 10 minutes. No rough idle or trouble codes. Shut the car off and try to restart it right away and it won't turn back on.....I'm at a loss on this one.

If the EVAP Purge Valve was failing wouldn't it throw a DTC? If not, would it do so when I'm able to get the engine running? Like I said i can usually get it to start up by waiting an extended period of time; around 15 minutes or so typically does the trick. I have no CEL and have scanner and came back with no codes when I ran it early today. Just curious if the EVAP would cause a no start versus a hard/rough start.

Im hoping someone can help before I have to take the car to the dealership. Out of the blue the other day my 2007 Edge SEL wouldnt start after getting gas. It was a no crank no start. Fuel pump primed and usual and I couldnt hear any audible sound from the starter. After about 10 minutes and numerous attempts the car finally fired right up without hesitation. Drove it home and tried to start it again and after working again I tried a few more times and on the 3rd or 4th try it wouldnt start again. I had the old/ordinal starter tested at autozone and it passed. Wanting to eliminate the possibility of an intermittent starter I replaced it despite my gut feeling. This is my wifes car and she uses it daily to take the kids around town so I dont want it causing issues. Ive used the other key and tried putting the car in neutral when this happens to get it to start and still nothing. Tried wiggling the key in the ignition to see if it was a starter ignitin switch issue but nothing. Im not very good with electricial issues but I suppose it could be a relay issue maybe but I pulled the old starter and all wires and connectors looked near new. This is a California car all its life until it was brought to Illinois last year so there is absolutely no rust or corrosion on any part of the body or undercarriage. Any additional thoughts would be appreciated. Also it appears the PATS system doesnt appear to be an issue either.

good to know Mac. Took them off and put the strut mount in the correct orientation; perpendicular to the bottom of the strut and it turned without issue. Took it to get an alignment and wasn't to far off but still needed some adjustments. All is well now and I'll continue to monitor the quality of the struts and shocks. It's not my daily and my wife uses it once or twice a week to get groceries and get the kid around so I'm not all too concerned considering the price/quality of the product. Your videos are great so keep 'em coming!

Mac in your video of the 2008 Ford Edge you used Monroe OESpectum shocks so not sure what you mean by not using Monroe parts but either way I'm going to take off the struts again tonight and take another look at it. When it's off the vehicle is there a way to evaluate the strut mount for movement?

I should also note I didn't back off the 10mm for the springs as Ford calls for. I just found a service manual and see that was required for both the upper and lower spring ends. Also, when installing the mount there was no arrow only an indent on the strut mount. The arrow was installed facing the engine. Ford notes the arrow should be perpendicular to the lower strut mount. These are the only two areas I see issues with when I completed the install. Again, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hello, I'm new to the forum and Edge family and need a quick question answered. I recently replaced my shocks and struts the other day and finally got around to driving it and noticed when the wheel is turned to the left or right the springs sound like they are binding up and makes a loud boiing noise (not sure how to spell that honestly but I think you get the idea). I replaced the shocks and struts with Monroe OESpectrum shocks and struts along with the Monroe strut-mate mount. Everything went smoothly and I reused the bump stop and upper and lower spring cushions. The strut mount didn't come with the upper rubber spring cushion so the old one was used and was in good shape. The only issues I had was getting the strut mount bolts tightened down to the tower without destroying my hands. After about an hour I got it all buttoned up. Come back the next day and see about 3-4 threads exposed on the strut mount and re-tighten the nuts back down (how does this happen?) do struts need to settle? Anyhow when I turn the wheel I can hear the springs bind. Did I perhaps over tighten the strut mount to the tower? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.