roots57

Quote from above: "The biggest thing, and I think it is due to the 20” setup, is I find the car wanders a lot. You have to always be on the wheel. Anyone else notice this? All these other vehicles I drive are so better a staying put in the lanes. Even the sprinter on a windy day!!! Ahhh, hey, first-world problems! Cheers all, Bruce." Mine does this too sporadically. It seems to be a little worse with these Atturo tires compared to the P-Zeros (my only complaint with the Atturos). I am going to have an alignment done soon to see if this is a contributor or an actual difference in the tires.

I'll start tracking mine manually for a couple of tanks and see what I get. Now I'm curious to see the difference. I figure two full tanks should give me a decent enough sample size for an accurate calculation.

Mirrors dripping long after a wash is pretty common on most vehicles. One thing I do that helps is I really try and flush all the soap out with the power washer so that its just water that drips. Drilling vent holes in the bottom may help some but I doubt it would completely eliminate it. I have used a proper air compressor with a gun nozzle to really blow all the water out which worked pretty well. Even then the occasional drip happens, just have to wipe it off before it dries, if you can catch it in time. The air compressor is great for detailing the interior too, it gets all the dust and tiny debris out of the seams really well.

Might have just been a crap film. If you already have decent experience with auto films, it should not have that problem. Some of the top brands I know of for PPF are 3M, Hexis, Avery Dennison, Vvivid, and Oracal. Did it say the brand on the backing paper or anywhere? I know there are a lot of cheap no-name brands of auto films all over the internet. After I remove my avs aero-skin (one corner is lifting off) I'm hoping to try PPF instead and hopefully I don't have that problem too. Or I may trace the profile of the avs guard and do it over in black vinyl. It wont have the same level of protection as the avs, but should be sufficient to keep common road debris from damaging the paint.

Finally had success lightly tinting my tail light lenses after 2 failed attempts with wet apply film. The Gen II's tail lights have got to be on the top end of the difficulty scale because of the crazy curves and spanning middle section. Vvivid's dry apply tint film is way easier to use for super curved surfaces. I must say my wrapping skills have gotten so much better, just takes time and practice. I've saved hundreds of $$ doing it all myself though. After blacking out all the chrome and lightly tinting all the other lights, the tails stuck out like crazy. A lot of people hate tinted light lenses because they believe it defeats the purpose of lights, but with the light output of HIDs and LEDs these days, losing a tiny percentage of light really makes no meaningful difference IMO. With the light tint film everything is still plenty bright.

Figured this would be a good thread to post this on. Has anyone seen the Euro spec Vignale edition Edge? Particularly the honeycomb grille? I also really like the fog lights. Heres a pic:

Certainly looks like a reed sensor, which is just a magnetic switch used for all kinds of things, mainly alarm systems. Is there another component that it aligns with when the hood is closed?

If you want a summer performance tire and don't want to pay $200-$400 per tire, Atturo makes a 22" tire that may fit your wheels. I have them on my 2016 sport with 21" wheels and I love them. Coming off a set of Pirelli P-Zeros before the Atturos, and they are very comparable in performance. Atturos should run you about $500 all-in for a set of 4 and they come in 275/35 and 275/40 (and a couple more wider sizes) in 22". I've had mine on for a few months now and I'm buying them again for sure. At that price point they are very worth it. Atturo is aiming only at the off-road and SUV/light-truck performance tire market. You do have much more to choose from in 22" though, since virtually all tire mfg's have 22" options these days so you may just want to go with a more well-known brand. I found Atturo out of necessity since barely anyone makes a 21" tire in general, let alone a 21" performance tire. But just because they are not well known does not mean they are shit tires. They are actually a good looking tire too, nice big outer edge tread blocks that look great. They received almost universally positive reviews.

I rented the latest model BMW X3 a couple months ago and I was so disappointed with it. I am a huge BMW fan, but this thing seemed like it was merely rushed out to fill the market need without paying any attention to the details that most BMW models are known for. My biggest complaint was how bad it handled and how unbalanced it felt, especially at highway speeds. It was also way under powered (albeit the entry trim level) and the interior was uncharacteristically cheap for a kraut sled. I bet you would also be disappointed in the X3 if you value the way the edge drives. I'd take my 2016 Edge Sport all day, I missed it the whole time I had the X3. I'm sure the X6M is a different story...if I only had $120k to spend. So far I'm one of the Gen II Edge owners who have not had any real issues to speak of (knocking on wood) so I cannot knock the build quality of mine. I also live in SoCal so the cold is never a contributor to potential problems. I agree with your opinion on the edge tranny, its very plain and outdated and it does take away from the cars potential. This has pretty much been the opinion of most owners/reviewers of the gen II edge. I'm sure I'll be jealous and want the new tranny when it comes out. The only other real performance complaint I have is the brakes. IMO they are way too small and weak for a vehicle of this size/power and they fade on me all the time. I've read a lot of posts with people having problems with the pano moon roof, I think this summer I will go thru the cleaning/lube procedure.

The "bulge" version of the Gorilla Acorns is what I should have bought. The ones I did buy last year are the correct 14 x 1.5 thread and 60 deg angle, but they are not flared. They still work, but the bulged conical area matches the factory lugs shape. At some point I need to replace them. Damn things are like $75 per set of 20 though! BTW the Gorilla part number for the black Acorn style locking lugs for the Gen II Edge is 96643BDX, the ones I currently have on that are not flared are 71643NBC.

I'm assuming you have the 3.5 liter NA engine and not the 2.0 liter EB? I'm surprised you get that much of a discrepancy between the computed MPG and calculating it yourself using the oldschool method. 2.5 MPG difference is a lot!

I think they are comfy seats. The suede looked/felt a bit delicate to hold up for the life of the car, so I thought it was a good idea to add the extended seat protection warranty that is good for 96k miles I believe. Especially a good idea I thought with having a 2yr old. If something happens to the seats, they will either repair or replace under the warranty. My biggest complaint would have to be the lack of lateral bolstering, but its only noticeable when really pushing it thru corners. The heated/cooled features are a huge win for those who hate how hot black leather can get in the summer sun.

The Sony system in my 16 sport is awful, especially marketed as a "premium audio system" imo. Eventually I'm replacing the majority of it. All the speakers, sub, and amp. I'm sure just replacing the speakers would be a decent improvement, but I want it to be much more than that. The digital signal processors they have now make it so you can add aftermarket stuff and still retain all the factory voice/sound features. The only part I don't plan on replacing is the head unit.

The 2.7 engine alone isn't the problem, its the pano moon roof. But you are correct, no oem roof rails for a pano roof equipped edge.

I doubt they could base a warranty denial solely on a discrepancy in the ignition counter, it looks like they just use this as one potential indicator that, coupled with some other things, could be used to determine aftermarket tuning was done. That was one question I had, does it reset with battery disconnect or not. If so, its a pretty easy argument to say it wasn't from flashing an aftermarket tune, but from doing something simple like changing a bulb, or installing a dash cam. Neither are something disconnecting the battery is even necessary for, but at least its a plausible answer you could have on the ready, in case they challenge you on it.

Did you buy the PPF knifeless tape also? I know 3M currently makes a bunch different types of knifeless tape based on the application. Because the PPF is thicker than regular vinyl, the PPF knifeless tape has a stronger cut filament material that can slice thru the tough PPF. Good luck!

I saw that one way they check for evidence of engine re-calibration (tuning) is to compare the ignition counter to what should be consistent with the cars mileage/age. I'm assuming that each time you flash the PCM with a custom tune, or return it to the stock tune, it resets the ignition counter. Maybe there is a way to spoof the ignition counter and set it to a specific number? Maybe as part of the tune itself, or using FORScan? That way you could generally keep it consistent with what your car should have for an ignition count, regardless of how recently it was flashed. I guess it would be pretty obvious evidence of an aftermarket tune if your car has 15k miles on it and the ignition counter is only at 25.

The only one that kinda surprised me was that if you have an aftermarket exhaust, like the MRT axle-back system and one of your turbos goes out, there's a good chance they will deny the warranty claim. The rationale is that it alters the back pressure, which can over spin your turbo. Not sure how much truth there is to that.

anyone know what the engine oil operating temperature is in the 2.7 EB, or any of edge powerplants? shouldn't it be slightly higher than coolant temp, maybe by 10-15 deg? under normal conditions of course.

Stumbled across this today. Good info to see how and what they look for, and how they attempt to identify and document your performance mods. Anyone see this before? Its good to know this stuff if you are modifying a factory warrantied vehicle. https://ford.oemdtc.com/GSB/G0000128.pdf

If you are doing it yourself, you are probably better off buying a 12x60 piece of clear PPF and cutting it yourself with the PFF knifeless tape and a razor. There's some good videos on YouTube that can give you great techniques on how not to damage your paint at all.

Thats good news. Maybe a little market competition will start bringing the performance tire prices down a bit for this 21" oddball size

So the 7440 bulbs that come stock are single filament bulbs but they serve a dual purpose, as a detail in low voltage and as a flasher by pulsing it with higher voltage. The 7443 bulbs that are dual filament will still fit but if you simply replace the stock 7440 bulbs with regular 7443 bulbs, only one filament will be used (I think). To get the switchbacks to work you just need to get power to the white side all the time and as long as it is daylight out and your blinkers are off, the white will be on. Then when you put on your blinker, the circuit built into the LED bulb will turn off the white and flash the amber. Then about a second or so after your blinker is off, the white will light up again. The reason it only works as switchbacks during the day is because at night the DRL H15 bulbs go off and your main headlamps come on. I tapped the power wire to the DRLs to run the white side of the switchbacks so when they go off, so does the switchback feature. The ones I bought seem to be holding up nicely and looked like they were made out of decent materials. The only thing I changed was cutting off the resistors. Chose to go with the forscan route to disable the hyperflash instead. Just couldn't find a decent place to attach the burning hot resistors and it seemed like a fire risk. Plus part of the reason I like LED bulbs is because they use way less power. The resistors eliminate that benefit. If you end up doing the switchbacks and you have any other questions, let me know. Mine have been functioning just fine for the better part of a year now. I love the look of the icey white detail light instead of it being amber.

You can always buy one of these custom fit sub enclosures called the Stealthbox that JL Audio made for the Gen I Edges. The best part is that they upped the sub diameter to 10" and it bolts right on in place of the stock enclosure. I wanted one really bad for my Gen II Edge, but when I contacted them, they said that as of now, they don't plan on doing one for the Gen II's. Lame. I think MTX may have made one for the Gen I also, but I can't remember. http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-stealthbox-ford-edge

Good to know you guys were able to supply your own oil. I still have a few free oil changes left that they threw in when I bought it, but I still want to switch to Mobil 1 now, even if my dealership doesn't sell Mobil 1 by chance. I can get a 6 qt case on Amazon for like $35 or so.