roots57

Mine is the 3rd case of rear shock failure on a gen-II Sport w/ H&R's. It has just under 13k miles on it, probably like 8k-9k of that with the lowering springs. Its leaking, hasn't failed completely, but I'm wondering if I should go with the KYB OEM spec version instead of the Motorcraft ones. They can't be any worse, maybe they will even hold up better. They are less that $50 each and the install is pretty simple if you have the tools.

my Rotora brake kit went in last weekend. I've never driven a car with a BBK so I don't have anything to compare, all I can say is that this one works really well and it sure is fun being able to stop so easy and so short. Now the bad news, one of my rear shocks is leaking. Mark down another case of Edge Sport with H&R springs having a broken rear shock. Luckily they are fairly cheap and easy to put in, this is a DIY job for sure. Nick, I remember this happened to you too, what did you get for a replacement shock, did you stick with motorcraft or go with KYB or something?

I think all of the Gen-II's have this issue, I do too anyway. I pull off the bottom section of the rubber molding every once in awhile and use the power washer to clean out the sand and dirt that gets packed into the track. The first time I noticed it I was really surprised how much debris was jammed in there. That's not a bad idea to put something in there like a bit of grease to prevent rusting, eventually the sand and debris will wear down spots to bare metal. Must be worse in areas with a lot of rain/snow.

The forged aluminum calipers is where most of the cost comes from. Its night and day cost difference if going with a full kit compared to just upgrading the rotors and pads. The pedal feel is awesome, its pretty effortless to stop now. The biggest difference I can feel so far is the initial bite. They still aren't quite fully broken in yet either, especially the rears, another few days of driving and they should be at their best.

I think that air scoop is only on the 2.0 EcoBoost models, my 2016 Sport has a much different underpanel config. I like the idea of having vented air cooling the PTU.

Yes I got the standard BBK, rotors, calipers, sst braided lines, and EPB bypass module. I basically have the same kit as the Webasto Edge and Xtra, only differences are that I went with slotted rotors and his are drilled, and I went with a different caliper color. The true red calipers would've looked weird against the deeper ruby red paint. I wanted a color that would stand out a bit, but not be obnoxious like yellow or lime green would probably look, so I went with the light blue anodize finish. Front - 380mm Slotted, 6-Pot caliper Rear - 350mm Slotted, 4-Pot caliper

Its not a cheap mod, that's for damn sure! But considering that it costs upwards of $4k-$8k retail for a good set of big brakes on all 4 corners, I got a decent deal, $3700 all in. This includes the insane California state sales tax and installation. Rotora is the only company that makes a bolt on BBK for the Edge and judging by what other comparable kits cost from StopTech, Wilwood, AP Racing, etc, what I paid is very reasonable. Brembo's are usually considered the gold standard for brakes depending on who you ask, but they are ridiculously expensive, especially if doing all 4 corners.

Rotora BBK installed. Don't mind the filthy car and even filthier wheels, I'll wash it and post some better pics this weekend. Plus they still need some miles on them to finish the break in before I can really comment on them.

It seems that EcoBoost engines do provide exactly that, economy and boost . . . just not at the same time. You get to pick which you prefer with your driving style.

To get those hard hitting lows, its all about linear displacement and thats why standard depth subs (as opposed to shallow mounts) can provide that, especially when you get to 10" and above. The Xmax on a 8" JL W7 is still like 0.75" or something ridiculous. On a lot of the shallow mounts Xmax is like 0.25" or less and that just doesn't move much air. Hence why I'm trying to squeeze the deepest possible mounting 8" sub into my enclosure. Its already at a disadvantage being only 8" in diameter. Anyways, thanks again for the info/pics.

Thats a good point. I've had success saving $$ doing things like that before. I remember needing a big 1.5 farad capacitor for my amp back in the day and the brand name painted ones at the stereo shop were like $100, I got a 1.5 farad capacitor from an electrical supply house that had a better rating for a fraction of that. The only thing it didn't have was a fancy logo painted on the outside.

you're the reason all the $26.99 Mobil 1 is gone lol, I was hoping to get more after I realized this deal probably wouldn't last long but when I went back for more it was gone...I've never seen it this cheap before, a Mobil 1 oil change for just over $32 including the filter is about as good as it gets.

There should be plenty of inexpensive options on tirerack in 20" if you just want new wheels, try ebay too if you are willing to go with used and save $$

Speaking of mods...I'm getting my Rotora big brake kit installed this weekend...6-Pot 380mm slotted fronts and 4-Pot 350mm slotted rears...pics to follow.

I picked up two of the $5.33 Motorcraft filters last week, got a case of Mobil 1 oil for $26 too but that sale is over now. Since the drain plug has an o-ring, I'm gonna replace it every couple of changes also. Its like a geyser when you pop the drain plug, it almost overflowed my catch basin, the center hole in the top could barely keep up with the drain flow. From now on I'm going to look for the 5 quart jugs first, so its easier to transfer the used oil back into it for recycling, instead of filling back up 6 individual quart bottles.

You can also have them powder coated in any color/finish you want for around $150 per wheel. If you are ok with the wheel design and size, this is probably the way to go and the finish will last, its definitely cheaper than buying a whole new wheel/tire set up. You can vinyl wrap them too but as long as you are set on the color/finish you want, its better to just have them powder coated for the durability. Professional vinyl wrap cost vs powder coat cost is in the same ballpark. Plasti-dip is the cheapest but don't expect it to be very durable, vinyl wrap either.

Any word on your sitch? If you end up winning a lemon law claim, would you try for a replacement Sport, or you gona take the $$ and run?

They make one for the Gen 1 also, its probably easier to install too, maybe it doesn't require cutting the underside panels

I'm pretty sure Sylvania is a subsidiary of OSRAM, same company

Get yourself one of these: http://vanguardoffroad.com/cars/ford/edge/15-18-ford-edge-front-bull-a-bar-bumper-protector-guard-s-s.html

Just finished a full tank of fuel to calculate the MPG vs the displayed value and its about 1 MPG lower than the display so far. I'll keep the calculation going for a couple more tanks to get a more accurate value, but its a bit disappointing. I even used the same gas station and same exact pump to eliminate that as a potential variable.

Yes, I was thinking the same thing, offset them so the outboard tips are slightly shorter, that would look really good. That way they would probably line up more with the curvature of the bodywork in the corners.

Still the stock exhaust right?

Ordered the 8oz can of 3M primer 94 and some more carbon fiber film to do the side skirts this weekend. Also ordered an empty paint pen with an 8mm wide chisel tip as a convenient primer applicator. I agree with you Nick, I think the carbon fiber vinyl looks way better than the plain textured plastic, I'll post some pics when I'm done, but the primer is essential on this plastic substrate if it's going to last. Probably attempt the rear splitter at some point to finish the look, but it may require doing inlays so it will be a challenge for sure. The front splitter wrap survived a power wash today at least.

Nice, that looks better than I thought. Did you have to cut away the original bezel brackets to clean it up? Is there enough room to move them over towards the middle slightly more so that they are perfectly centered?