roots57

I've had my front bumper cover off a couple of times now too, I can show you exactly what to remove next time we meet up if you like. Its fairly easy once you know the sequence. The toughest part is the bolts holding the bumper cover to the fender, only because its a really tight space. I bought a couple of special tools for getting in there, so its easy now. No problem lending them to you, or just helping you. Nick is who I asked for tips for my first attempt, and leaving the middle screw along the top for last is a good tip and it allows you to slowly lower the front end down. That Ford procedure document is pretty good, but Nick is right, I didn't remove the wheel well liners completely either, just the screws towards the front.

I have an average of -2.2 degrees of rear camber, but I'm not that concerned with it, I like the handling of it, and it counters the wear of my fronts. I remember the guys at the shop I had install my springs saying the same thing, no rear camber adjustment. It doesn't give you a warm and fuzzy when you have to show a mechanic things like that.

With the camber bolts, are you trying to get rid of the excessive negative camber in the rear caused by the H&R's? I noticed that my rear tires have worn biased to the inside edge (to be expected with over 2 degrees of negative camber). My fronts are wearing the more to the outside edge so rotating them as needed should ultimately work out pretty well for getting the max life I can out of these Atturos.

You get those Michelins mounted and balanced yet?

You should bring a jack stand with you so you can jack up the car and place it on the jack stand, that way you can re-use the jack to support and/or adjust the height of the lower control arm in order to line up the bolt holes when putting in the new shock (this was the most difficult part). 17mm socket and ratchet wrench for the upper shock mount bolts. 15mm box wrench for the lower shock bolts. 15mm box wrench and vice-grips for the nut that attaches the upper shock mount to the shock post. Vice-grips and adjustable wrench (or two vice-grips) to remove the aluminum press-fit ring so you can swap the bump-stop/dust shield to the new shock. When you only jack up one corner of the car, the rear anti-roll bar will keep the lower control arm from dropping enough for the spring to fall out. This is because the opposite side gets compressed quite a bit from jacking up one corner of the car and the anti-roll bar transfers some of that compression to the other side. I had to push the control arm down in order to spread the mounting holes apart far enough to insert the bolts. Watch this video of a MKZ rear shock replacement, its the closest I could find. Just disregard all the steps for the electronic damping wiring. Otherwise its the same procedure. The only other step not shown in the video is removing the press fit ring on the shock post, but thats super easy. Here's a minimum requirement tool list: 2-ton jack 2-ton jack stand 17mm socket/ratchet 15mm box wrench Vice-Grips (2x if possible) Adjustable wrench ...and the tools required to remove the wheel of course.

Thanks bud, I'm going to do something different on my hood soon, not sure what yet. I like what you and a couple others did with the middle portion wrapped, so I may do something similar, but with my own twist to it. I'm probably going to remove my front plate too, I hate it on there, I'll just throw it in the corner of the windshield when needed. I was watching cars go by the other day and counting those without a front plate and it doesn't look like they take that rule very seriously around here, I saw so many cars with no front plate in just a couple minutes. I'd also like to change the grille to black honeycomb at some point, similar to the ST or Vignale grille, there are some Chinese made Gen-II honeycomb grilles for sale on eBay, but they want like $350 and I'm skeptical of the quality/fit. I've been trying to find a Vignale grille from the UK but so far no luck, I can't even figure out what the part number is. The carbon fiber vinyl on the black textured plastic is holding up well so far, thanks to the 3M primer 94. It actually comes off really easy too with a little 99% IPA

Replaced my rear shock and finally had time to finish the carbon fiber vinyl on the side skirts and give her a proper wash...still disappointed in the lack of shock options tho

that's about the same as I paid. Replaced the broken one last night, only took an hour. Back in business for now. The only weird part of the process was switching the shock boot/bump stop onto the new shock. There's a small aluminum ring that is press fit onto the top of shock post about 2" below the threaded tip. You have to clamp onto it with vice-grips and rotate it free in order to swap the boot onto the new shock. Anyway, I'm documenting all the important dimensions, mounting holes, min and max travel, etc., hopefully we can find another alternative that works.

They all do this. The weather stripping is further up in the door jam so the lower part gets dirty pretty easily. You'd have to get creative by adding your own weather stripping or something in order to fix this problem.

Good idea on the new shocks, my left one blew out completely the other day, hydraulic fluid all over the ground, now I have to drive all slow and careful over bumps or it bottoms out against the bump stop. Wont have time until Sunday to replace them. Where did you get your replacement shocks? Maybe ask the guys at GAS if they can point us in the right direction for a performance shock that might fit our Edges!

I called them too, didn't get very far...with KYB either. the Edge sells consistently at about 130,000 units per year so I don't get it either. I'm really hoping to find an alternative that is built tougher and that I can make fit.

Came out to my car this morning and the rear left shock has now completely failed, there was hydraulic fluid all over the ground, at first I thought it was brake fluid, thankfully not. Glad I ordered the replacement shocks already, should be here by Friday so I can replace them both over the weekend. I am really going to do my best to find an alternative to the Motorcraft shocks, its only a matter of time before this happens again. There's got to be something that will fit with minimal modification. I'm going to measure and document all the important dimensions of the OEM replacements before I install them so I have what I need to find a better alternative.

Take a look, I think you need the following parts, HC1, HN1, and HS1 (hardware for the 6P013 Air Shield) HC1 is the Clip and it is part number W718150 HN1 is the Nut and it is part number W702438 HS1 is the Screw w/ Spring Washer and it is part number W702413 Should cost you around $10.00 in total for one of each item

This probably won't work or look quite right without some custom body work done. Even if you can manage to mount the Edge fenders, front end, and hood, the fenders probably wont align or match the MKX doors. I totally agree with you in that the Edge Sport front end looks better than the MKX, especially the Gen-II's, the MKX front end always looked like a giant birds beak to me (the Infiniti QX80 does also). Its probably less of a headache to just trade in the MKX for an Edge Sport unless you have some $$ for custom work you are willing to part with.

I came very close to buying them from Rock Auto, they were one of the only other places that had them in stock for a decent price

I always place a couple of rubber washers between the plate any the car that I put each screw thru, it keeps the plate away from the paint and prevents any vibration noises.

Apparently they did do some different stuff to the ST suspension. I saw somewhere that the ride height might have also been adjusted, although its probably minimal from the looks of it in the pics I've seen. If they fit, I'm certainly ok with trying them out.

I just listed the part number and price of what I paid for 2 rear shocks on this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23866-brake-kit-works-great-but-rear-shock-is-leaking/ So far, it looks like a decent price is about $50-$60 each and as of now Motorcraft is the ONLY replacement option. Calling the local dealership directly, they quoted me $90 each, so don't go that route. Even Summit claims to have them for $57 each, but then at check out it says "special order item, when you complete your order, we will order it from the supplier" (probably directly from Ford) so you wont get them right away. Most of the big dealerships have their own websites that you can usually order from. I used Ford Parts Unlimited this time.

Looks like KYB does NOT make an OEM replacement after all. I've been looking into this for a few days now and I'm fairly certain Ford Motorcraft is our only option for shocks (front or rear). They sell like 130,000 Edges per year these days in the US alone, WTF? I may have to take this to the next level and find something myself that I can make fit, even modify if I have to. Just needs the right length, damper rate, and travel, but nobody lists this info so it will take some digging. I'm not going to be very happy replacing shocks each year if this keeps up. *UPDATE Just ordered two rear Motorcraft shocks from the Ford Parts Unlimited website. $125 all in, my local AutoNation Ford dealership wanted $90 each. Just so everyone knows, the P/N for the AWD 2.7L Sport rear shock is ASH24657 or F2GZ18125F (no clue why there is two part numbers for the same exact part) also, the live chat lady from parts.ford.com told me that the difference between ASH24656/F2GZ18125E and ASH24657/F2GZ18125F was that one is for FWD Sport (Nick H.) and the other for AWD Sport. This appears to be correct.

Nice, those are supposed to be awesome tires, no more squealing around those s-turns like the scorpion verdes. They are supposed to look really good too, laser etched sidewall design. Have you looked at your rear shocks to make sure they aren't leaking too?

I think it was only Mikula that was disappointed in them, and not in their performance, for some reason his ride height difference wasn't the same as everyone else's (it was less and also uneven). Everyone else seems to loves them, including me, I'm more concerned that my rear shock is leaking after 12k miles.

Fords part numbering system doesn't make a whole lot of sense, there are multiple part numbers just for the rear shock for my car with no explanation as to the differences. I'm getting so frustrated trying to find what you would think to be a very simple part with multiple MFG's to choose from.

Bad news, I just got off the phone with Bilstein, I just couldn't accept that they seem to make replacements shocks for everything BUT the Gen-II edge, not even the lower trim models. And they just informed me that we shouldn't expect them anytime soon either. They do, however, seem to at least have OEM spec replacements for all Explorer and Escape models AND the Fusion, so I don't get it. It would probably be as simple as adjusting the ones for the Fusion to the proper length the Edge takes. sfbluenote - I know how that is, I live in a complex as well, but with subterranean parking with zero light. Luckily I have access to my office building on the weekends with a bay door I can pull into.

I put about 8k-9k on them before the leak was noticed. A lot of vendors seem to be out of stock too, so I wonder if this isn't just a result of H&R springs, but a more general problem that is just amplified by them. I'm hoping to find another OEM spec version other than Motorcraft to try out instead, but that isn't as easy as you would think. A lot of online stores don't seem to carry Gen-II Edge rear shocks at all, or they are out of stock. If anyone finds a decent source, please let me know. I want to replace mine in the next week or two, its only going to get worse. The good news is that they only cost $50-$60 each and can be replaced without having to pay someone to do it. You don't need any special tools, other than maybe a jack/jack stands. After I do mine, I'll post a write up with pics for the less experienced, hopefully it will save you from having to pay a mechanic for two hrs. It always sucks when the labor costs more than the parts.

The Rotora tech that installed my brake kit noticed it, otherwise I probably wouldn't have noticed anything until it started making noise, or just completely failed. I'm gona order new rear shocks today, probably going with the KYB replacements, maybe I'll have better luck.