roots57

no removal of components is needed for the Gen-II rear emblem, just a heat gun/hairdryer (or even a hot day) and some fishing line, you basically just cut thru the adhesive with the fishing line, the warmer it is the easier it cuts.

JL Audio makes this "Stealthbox" for the 1st gen Edge. It's basically an enclosure that will take a 10" sub and directly replace the factory enclosure. I wanted one for my 2nd gen Edge, but unfortunately JL Audio has no plans to make one for the gen II. Its a bit expensive at $650 but does save a lot of aggravation. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13694376/JL-Audio-Stealthbox.html?tp=113

Thanks for staying on top of this. I just returned from a long vacation and was hoping my bar would be close to done by now. At least we're not being billed until they ship. Another couple weeks isn't a big deal for this.

window tint film is designed to be applied to the inside surface of the glass.

With illegal tint, its luck of the draw, the legal limit is usually not enough for most peoples liking. I just tried to match the front to the rear windows as close as possible, I've done this on all my cars and have never gotten a ticket (knock on wood). I've certainly heard of others getting fix-it-tix though. Almost all the cars I see here with aftermarket tint are too dark, and in SoCal there are tons of cars like this. Safety in numbers I guess. For the most part, its probably a ticket they give out if you are being an A$$ to the cop and he/she is looking for stuff to add on. The first thing I always plan to do if I get pulled over is roll the windows down all the way, be polite, and hope they don't ask about them, or my lack of a front license plate

If you are dead set on going with 20" OEM Edge wheels, I bet you can find someplace to do an even swap if your 21's are still in good shape. There's places that will even powder coat them in whatever color you want first. You will also be saving lots of $$ buying 20" tires from now on, the 21's are really pricey in comparison.

I bought my 2016 Sport new with the 20" wheels on all-season tires, then bought the OEM 21" wheels with P-Zero summer tires about a month later and I noticed a pretty significant difference between the two. The ride was much more comfortable on the 20's, but I prefer the handling of thinner sidewall summer rubber at the cost of some ride comfort. I also lowered it with the H&R's. These details really just come down to personal preference. I can get away with it in southern California where the roads are in decent shape and its always sunny. If I still lived in the northeast, I'm sure I'd be wearing the 20's more, at least thru the winter. TPMS modules are the same for both.

you might still be able to get one, I'd call right away though, our orders are supposed to start shipping soon.

You can get them from Amazon Prime for $124 each with free shipping, and then also buy the service ad-on for mount/balance. This basically lets you use a local tire shop based on zip code to install them by pre-paying the fee, which is usually about $16 per tire. If you go this route, you are looking at $560 all in. I've got about 7500 miles on mine now and they are still in great shape (I'll post a tread wear picture later today). They are a bargain at that price and I will certainly buy them again. At this rate, I'm expecting to get about 20k out of them. Not much by normal standards, but considering I only got about 8k out of my p-zero's, they are lasting way longer. I drive super aggressive and would go broke buying p-zero's every 10k. Other than wear, I really can't compare them to the p-zero's because I haven't done any canyon runs with the Atturos, but so far there is no reason to not buy them again. I did notice that the p-zeros handle a little better in the rain though. Anyway, here's the Amazon ad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A7EX0SW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_15?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (don't mind the picture in the ad, its some Hankook off-road tire and not even close to what they actually look like) Here's after 7500 miles:

ready for my new rear stabilizer bar and links...

I'm sure you would have to wire them yourself, although thats not too difficult. There are a few aftermarket options for those lights, the OEM ones are almost $300 each ($600 for both).

They only cost $20 each, $44 shipped. Your OEM links will probably be ok if you don't push it. But keep in mind that the new bar will apply substantially more force on the links (especially in the stiff setting) so its probably a good idea to replace them, especially since its so easy and it will save you time doing the install of the bar and links all at once.

I bought the Moog rear links last week also. They certainly look a lot better than the stock links.

Alright fellas...my order has been placed. Looks like another few weeks until they start shipping. John said ADDCO will process the payment when the bar is ready to ship. Once you see that your CC has been charged, it will be about 4-5 business days until its delivered, depending on location.

how do I order mine? UPDATE: I figured it out, page 3. I'll let everyone know once my order is in. I'll call this morning.

They probably just mean that the view is "similar" to FWD in that all is the same except for the absence of a rear diff, shafts, etc.

Maybe check to see if they will make an extra one for Nick, or see if they end up with an extra one anyway. Normally you add a part or two to an order quantity to absorb a loss during fabrication. Worth checking?

Here's a picture of my '16 Sport dash that I took with the drawer assembly removed for documenting the hard-wiring instructions for my dash cam, it appears to be the same snap fit pattern. Although its hard to imagine paying $130 for this little drawer, it does appear that it will just snap right in place of the dummy panel. I remember the entire drawer assembly pulled out fairly easy. I use it to hold an Altoids box with parking meter change, perfect for that. Judging by comparing both pics, it will fit for sure. Maybe try calling around to some salvage yards, could pick one up for way less than $130.

Sounds good, I'm in. Keep me posted.

You can get LED bulbs anywhere these days, just need to know the size. Generally speaking, you get what you pay for with LEDs. I changed out all the incandescent bulbs on mine for LEDs and everything is working fine. The only OEM incandescent bulbs on a gen 2 edge sport are the puddle lights (custom size), license plate lights (size 194), front turn signals (size 7440NA), and the daytime runners (size H11).

If I can put this stabilizer in myself, I'd be interested in joining in on this group buy. Can anyone tell me the general install procedure? I've got a floor jack, jack stands, ramps, etc. As long as its not too intense, I'm in.

The eBay ones surely will not have any mounting points or hardware for the front camera. You will have to find a way to custom mount it. I'm pretty sure the little pop-out spray nozzle is completely separate from the camera module so you may be able to lose that feature to make it a bit easier. Then you just need to find the right spot to put the camera so you can mount it to the raptor grill. It might not be too difficult to figure out. I looked into this myself already. I was considering buying the Euro-spec honeycomb grill from the Vignale edition Edge, but I couldn't find a place to buy a new one, plus I'm sure it would have cost upwards of $800 easily. Good luck!

FORD makes one that fits there (FT4Z-17B807). How did you find that random aftermarket one you posted the link for and not come across this first? https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-FT4Z-17B807-Bumper-Protector/dp/B00WGU6RWC

Do you feel any vibration in the brake pedal when it happens?