roots57

Installed my Chinese mud flaps today and I'm surprised to say that they fit very well! Much better than the OEM ones I had on the front before. I like that they are 3D molded and not just flat rally style flaps. I think they look great. Both front and rear match the body profile about as good as could be, no mismatch or gaps at all. I did have to drill one hole in the rear one because the middle hole location was off a bit, but only on one side which was weird. Also, the lower inner portion of the rears doesn't match quite right, but once installed you can't really notice. I'd recommend them though, especially since this is the best option I've been able to find. For the fronts I used the existing plastic push rivets, but they are the slightly longer ones that came with the OEM flaps, so it's probably a good idea to get some longer 1/4" diameter rivets to account for the thickness of the flaps. For the rears I used the small fender liner screws that are already there. I'm not sure if my flaps are different than NoDTMF's, but my install seems to have gone much smoother, took about an hour. I also did it without removing the wheels so that helped. I can take some more pictures if anyone wants to see, just let me know. I can also post a step by step how-to if anyone wants. (sorry my phone rotates the pics 90 degrees, will fix later) PS, the eBay seller's name was frederic1313 and he kept me up to date with the shipment via email, took about 3 weeks I think.

I bought the same Chinese mudflaps. They took a few weeks to arrive, but the seller kept me informed on the progress of the order. I will be installing them this weekend, afterwards I will post a review with pics too. I also bought the OEM ford front mud flaps and have had them on since I bought the car.

Can I ask where you bought your wheel spacers and what the cost was? Xtra and I have an issue. The OEM spare donut wheel doesn't fit over our Rotora brake kit calipers, so I am currently driving without a spare...no bueno. I'm hoping I can simply space it away from the caliper a bit to create enough room. I am having difficulty finding spacers with the proper bore and bolt circle. Thanks!

read this thread for info on the H11 LED DRL bulbs https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23323-drl-change/

It looks like in the picture of your bar that there was some grease applied to your bushings. Did you figure out where it was coming from? I had them apply some grease to mine, no squeaking so far.

The Atturo AZ850 tires I have now are a decent low-cost performance tire in 21", I'm pretty happy with mine so far with just about 10k on them now. Will be buying again for sure, they are a fraction of the cost of 21" Pirelli's (about $125 per tire compared to $300+)

I think the Whiteline collars will be fine, they should provide plenty of stability for keeping the bar centered. I only got mine from McMaster because the stuff gets delivered from their local warehouse the next day, sometimes even the same day if I place orders in the morning.

I paid $125 from a mom n pop shop nearby. Don't go to pep boys or a major franchise auto shop ($275 was their quote). They generate their estimates based on bulk historical info from data companies and pricing will always be way high for stuff like this

There's room to put them on afterward, on either side of the brackets too. You can also measure the bracket spread and then add the collars before you put the bar on, but its probably easier to just put them on after. Plus, that way you can be more precise with centering the bar and the amount of play you allow for with the shaft collars.

Got my bar in finally. Glad I decided to wait until I had the shaft collars. It looks like there is plenty of opportunity for the end link studs to start ripping into the parking brake module if it migrates sideways just a tad in either direction. I highly recommend adding them to this mod! Just from the short drive I took, I could immediately notice the reduction in body roll. I played it safe and went with the lighter setting for now.

I also stopped by Pep Boys yesterday to grab something and for kicks had them give me an estimate for installing my new bar, guy tells me $275 for the labor. I laughed in the guys face and told him that price was actually insulting. Thats roughly 4 hrs of labor to loosen like 6 or 8 bolts, swap out the bar, then tighten them again...ridiculous! If it takes a mechanic 4 hrs to install this bar, he should look for another career.

I actually held off on putting mine in yesterday because I noticed this. The links are pretty damn close to the electronic parking brake mechanism and I didn't want to install the new bar without shaft collars to keep it centered. I got mine from McMaster Carr, they're just two-piece hard anodized aluminum shaft collars w/ stainless steel bolts. I paid the same as you guys, $30 for the pair. I'll get my bar installed today or tomorrow.

Received my bar this morning, just in time to get it installed this weekend! Any tips on a smooth install? On paper, removing the OEM bar and installing the new one is as straightforward as it gets. But, should I put the rear of the car up on jack stands for more room to work, then put my floor jack under the rear diff and jack it up to about normal ride height? I'm thinking this would take any potential preloading off the links. Would this be the easiest approach?

use the tire rack website and preview a bunch of different rims on your car, you're the one that has to like them

model/year?? the dust shield comes off pretty easy, just a few small screws if I recall right (gen II anyway)

use some polishing compound then wax it afterwards and 90% of that scuff will probably disappear. looks like it might be mostly paint from the other car or whatever hit you

My CC just got charged from ADDCO for my bar, it should be here within a week!! keep a look out for yours if you are in this buy too! Now I just have to decide which setting to go with first, stiffer or stiffest...

COSTCO has it for $36.99 with free shipping for members

I've heard before that the flex additive used in paint for the plastic parts might contribute to a slight difference in color.

I bought my set of OEM 21" wheels from Detroit Wheel and Tire also. I got a pretty good deal and was happy with the service. I didn't use the trade option as I wanted a winter set-up too, so I kept my factory 20" set up. I think I paid just over $2,000 for the rims with Pirelli P-Zero summer tires, mounted and balanced with 4 new TPMS installed. Those tires are at least $1200 alone. If anyone does order custom powder coated wheels, be sure to request them without the gloss clearcoat. It will eventually flake, especially in hotter climates/heavy braking. Powder coat is heat cured so it holds up at higher temps, but the clearcoat is regular spray and cannot resist the higher temps. It was pointless anyway, the powder coat is glossy enough by itself. I didn't figure this out until quite a few months later, but in their defense, they did offer to refinish them, I just decided it was too much trouble to remove them and ship them back, so eventually I will have them powder coated again locally.