roots57

Here is what the LED DRLs and switchback turn signals look like during the daylight, at night when the DRLs go off, the turn signals revert back to amber only, since they are tapped into the DRLs.

You can get rid of all those resistors if you just disable the hyperflash feature, given that any thought? If you don't want to do that and don't mind the risk of running the 4 hot resistors, the proper way to wire them is in parallel, not in series which it sounds like you have been trying. The resistors basically trick the circuit into drawing enough power as to not trigger the hyperflash, since the LEDs use so much less power than incandescent bulbs. If you want to shut off the hyperflash I can point you in the right direction. I did it to my 2016 a few days ago.

got front led switchbacks to work on my 2016, used forscan to disable hyperflash and used my volt meter to figure out somewhere to tap into for powering the whites. Seems to be working fine. I tapped the drivers side DRL so they revert back to amber only at night when the DRLs go off and the HIDs are running. If anyone wants details let me know.

Added switchback front LED turn signals to my 2016. Disabled the hyperflash with FORScan instead of adding the resistors. The switchback 7440 LEDs I got came with the 6 ohm resistors, but as soon as I felt how hot they get, I cut them off and re-programmed the BCM instead. It was actually pretty easy to do. Heres what it looks like in the daytime. Also disabled the "double honk" feature when you get out and shut the door while its running. The exact BCM changes I made are here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13407-what-have-you-done-towith-your-edgemkx-today/?p=174384

Disabled the "double honk" feature when you get out and close the door while the engine is running. I found this feature to be very annoying! For those of you who use FORScan (extended license), this will work for changing a 2016 BCM: BCM Address 726-41-01 Change from 0001 0001 0072 to 0000 0001 0071 Also converted the front turn signals and DRLs to LED bulbs. No more incandescent bulbs anywhere on the car. For the front turn signals, I again used FORScan to disable the "hyperflash" bulb out feature instead of adding resistors. From what I see, this is what most people end up doing as a work around. Of course this is probably easier than going thru the process of figuring out how to use FORScan to disable it. Upgrading to low power consuming LED bulbs only to add huge resistors so that the circuits use just as much power as the incandescent bulbs just never sat right with me. Especially once I saw how hot the resistors get, so hot that they cant even be in contact with anything plastic or it will melt it, maybe even catch on fire. Here is the BCM change for this: BCM Address 726-27-01 Change from 0100 0001 0057 to 0000 0001 0057 A lot of the BCM programming seems to be identical across the different Ford models. For example, I noticed on the other forums that both of the above changes work on the F150, and Fusion, probably many more. I was definitely nervous when I finally pushed the "write" button in FORScan, but I took others advice and downloaded the entire AS-BUILT configuration of my car from the Ford Motorcraft website using my VIN number, super easy. Only cost me like $20 for the ELM327 cable.

If you really want better all around control, especially after suspension and engine tuning, you may want to consider the Rotora big brake kit. Xtra has this kit on his, and I'm jealous. This will run you a few thousand bucks though. You will notice (if not already) that the brakes are rather inadequate when pushing it. Ford must keep the rotor size down in order to accommodate the clearance needed for the smaller diameter wheels used on lower trim levels. You do have the Edge Sport model, right?

Xtra and I both have the H&R lowering springs, and they make a huge difference in the handling and the stance of the car, check out the pics if you like. Don't worry about it being too stiff either, they are progressive springs so normal driving will feel about the same. These will cost you about $600-$700 including installation. Xtra and I did some SoCal canyon runs together and his scorpion verde all-season Pirelli's were screaming a bit around the tight turns. We also both have the 21" wheels, but I am running the Pirelli P-Zero summer tires and they didn't squeal a bit, its a pretty hard compound. Unfortunately, they are about $400 a tire, so once these are spent, I will be looking for a less expensive summer tire for sure. Although living in Maryland, you may want to stay away from summer rubber, unless you plan to have two set ups. Apart from running a tune, your best performance option is probably the springs. Good luck, there is plenty of info on the forum and plenty of us that are willing to help.

check out my pics and posts, as well as browse thru the modifications forums, you'll find most available options there for everything

Thanks, I probably should have posted it here to begin with.

Any experience with the Bluetooth OBD-II modules, like OBDLink etc. to use with Forscan or other programs? Are those things just limited to monitoring your vehicle and clearing error codes, or can you actually get deeper access to make changes to things? Do they give you the ability to override features? For example, I want to replace my front incandescent turn signal bulbs with LED bulbs. For that I basically have two choices, I can either add the proper in-line resistors, or just override the rapid flash feature. I really don't want to add resistors, all they do is produce and waste heat energy. I guess I just want to know what can and can't be done with a scan tool and the proper software.

I hard wired my Viofo A119S Dash Cam and think I figured out the easiest possible way to get this accomplished. This will obviously work for things like radar detectors also. I bought a dash cam hard wire kit from Amazon when I ordered the camera which consists of a long power cord with in line power box and glass tube fuse. Also came with the optional add-a-fuse adapter plug (or fuse tap) that piggy backs a fuse of your choice on the panel. Initially I got the wrong size fuse tap, which was made for Mini fuses, The Gen II Edges have Micro2 and some Micro3 fuses on the cabin panel. So make sure you specifically order a Micro2 fuse tap. Don't do what I did and solder it to the power cord before figuring out that it was the wrong size plug. Running the cable was easier than I thought it would be. I started at the top and tucked it under the ceiling liner, super easy. Then down the drivers side a-pillar. You do not have to remove the weather stripping to run the wire down the a-pillar, just lift it up enough to run the cable behind the trim piece. Once you get it down the a-pillar, you can remove the two panels shown in these two pictures, they both pop straight off easily. If the wire is ran correctly, none of the trim pieces will be propped up or displaced at all. You can then tuck the wire under the dash. Next remove the storage drawer to the left of the steering wheel, under the light switch. This will also pop straight out pretty easily. This simply provides you with a great view of the fuse panel. You still need to reach up under the dash to access the fuse panel, but you can look thru the hole where the drawer was while you work, instead of getting upside down and sticking your head way up under the dash. Here is a picture of the access you gain by removing the drawer: I went thru all the "spare" fuses according to the manual diagram with my multi-meter, but they were all full time power circuits. I really wanted to use one of the spares, but no dice. I chose to piggy back the "delayed accessories" fuse, #23 on the diagram which is a 10 amp fuse and ignition controlled. I soldered the power wire to the fuse tap and plugged it into the fuse panel. I then used one of the two OBD-II wire harness bolts (there's one on each side of the harness) to secure the ground wire. To me, this was the easiest place to attach it, and its lined up perfectly so you can feed the ground wire down onto it by reaching thru the drawer hole, but any grounded metal screw down there will do. Here is a picture of the fuse tap in the panel. You do need to make sure it is oriented the right way, so check it with your meter or the camera itself before finishing up. Finished Dash Cam Install: Hopefully this will help anyone trying to hard wire dash electronics. I read somewhere that people were taking off weather stripping and other stuff in order to run hidden wires, not necessary at all. No special tools needed, although some plastic pry tools will help things along when running the wire. If anyone has questions, I'll be glad to help.

Personally, I paid all that extra money for the more aggressive sport trim, I couldn't imagine replacing the body work with the base model stuff just to make mud flaps fit. I doubt you would find anyone else that would be thinking of this either. You would be much better off finding mud flaps you could cut to fit, or just wait and hope that sport version mud flaps are offered at some point. good luck.

Thanks, I looked it up this morning too and its pretty straight forward, but it has changed since I last dealt with a cabin fuse panel in the late 90's. When I first looked at the fuse panel diagram in the manual, I saw that there were a few "spares" locations available, but I think they were all Micro3 and a shared fuse with important stuff. It looks like the best one to tap into is the 10 amp fuse at location 23 (assuming Gen II shares the same layout for all yrs). Its the "delayed accessory" circuit. I'll be able to finish up Wednesday when I get the Micro2 fuse tap adapter. Managed to run the wire without removing any weather stripping and only removing two easy to pop off panels. Also, the little storage drawer under the head light switch to the left of the steering wheel pops straight out and you get a clear view of the fuse panel, makes it way easier to work on. You still have to reach underneath to get to it, but at least you don't have to stuff yourself underneath the dash upside down.

I have the Viofo A119S dash cam that has mini USB power connector. I will be getting my Micro 2 fuse tap on Wednesday and will complete my installation then. Someone else on the forum used fuse number 23, which is the 10 amp delayed accessory fuse, so I'm going to try that one first. Here is a link to Amazon for the Micro 2 fuse tap you need (I like that it comes with a 10 amp and 20 amp fuse): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The first kit I got had a fuse tap for mini fuses only, this is the reason I'm only half way done. Not sure if you figured this out yet, but the little coin drawer that is to the left of the steering wheel, underneath the headlight switch comes out really easy by pulling straight out. This will give you a very clear view of the fuse panel. All you need to do is reach up under the dash while looking thru the drawer hole, super easy. Also, I ran my cable down the drivers side A pillar (obviously), but you don't need to remove the weather stripping (someone else on this forum did that in their write up), I will post pics of the only two panels you need to remove to run the cable properly. More to follow.

I am in the process of hard wiring my dash cam also. I already ran the cable along the windshield, down the A pillar, and under the drivers side dash. The little storage drawer to the left of the steering wheel (under the light switch) will pull out very easily. Thru that hole you can clearly see the fuse panel and by reaching up underneath, you can access the fuses. I am working on getting the right fuse panel plug before i can finish up. I will post a full write up once I finish, should be in the next few days. That mirror tap thing doesn't offer a mini USB adapter, so if your dash cam is mini USB you are SOL for that option.

Did this yesterday, super easy. I have to give credit to Xtra for this one, he gave me the idea. Used my left over 3M gloss black vinyl from when I wrapped my exhaust bezels. Also started hard wiring my dash cam. Got the cable ran along the top of the windshield, down the A pillar, and under the dash. Ran into a problem though, the Amazon wiring kit doesn't come with the right fuse panel plug, the Gen II Edges have these double fuses I've not seen before, I need to learn more about the types of fuses in these cars and buy the right plug to tap into the cabin fuse panel. In hind sight, I probably should have checked this before I soldered it together! I'll try to do a full write up once I figure things out and finish up. I learned some things about removing panels from under the dash and have some tips for running wires that will be useful to others.

I'll forward you the instructions Nick sent me. It's impossible to remove the grill without removing the entire front end, but it really isn't too bad, the worst are the two screws holding the bumper cover to the fender on both sides so removing the head light assemblies first is easy but necessary.

Has anyone wired any electronics thru the cabin fuse panel in a gen II Edge? I recently bought a dash cam and I want to hard wire it. According to the owner's manual, the cabin fuse panel is under the dash to the left of the steering column, pretty standard location. Although at first glance I couldn't even find it. The manual does also say that it "may" be easier to remove the plastic trim cover, which most likely means you cant do shit without removing the trim cover. Any tips would be appreciated! I already bought the hard wire kit that comes with the blade fuse adapter that plugs right into the panel. Thanks!

You were thinking of replacing the lower body trim with the non-sport trim? Just in the rear, or everywhere?

These two tore up the Mulholland Hwy from the San Fernando Valley to Malibu and back yesterday