roots57

I tried the hood first with gloss black, but I didn't like how it came out, plus my pattern for the shape profile was off a bit. It took me like 5 pattern iterations before I got the shape right. I only wanted the two hood ridges wrapped. After I got the shape right and switched to satin black film instead, it came out pretty good. Oh and I borrowed the rear roof extension wrap idea from you, so thanks!

I wouldn't be surprised if there is a historical log of things like BCM changes, but I highly doubt that most technicians would even know how to access this type of data. Unless they have a reason to go exploring, I wouldn't worry about them figuring out that you changed BCM codes and then changed them back. BTW, you can always download your original as-built BCM configuration for your exact vehicle on the Ford website. Its based on your VIN number, in case you lose or forget your stock settings. If you need directions for this, let me know. Someone also posted the directions somewhere on the forum, which is where I got from.

Over the weekend I added some satin black vinyl hood accents and lightly tinted the two triangle DRL's and the little side mirror lights. The 3M design line knifeless tape makes doing shapes or any cuts incredibly easy without having to worry at all about damaging the paint, awesome stuff! I also wrapped the roof extension on the rear hatch so the entire top of the car is black except for the shark fin antenna.

Here is the one I used and it worked perfectly, Amazon for $29. My view of the OBD-II adapter was to just go with the hard wired version since I would be in the car when using it. The bluetooth feature is kind of unnecessary if you are making these changes from a laptop sitting in the drivers seat. Just seemed like one more thing that could go wrong. But I have read that the Bluetooth ones work just fine too, just my personal preference. You will need a PC with an extended license of Forscan to make any changes and there are plenty of instructions available on obtaining the extended licensed. I made a few changes to my BCM and posted the confirmed codes. The double honk when exiting the car while running was killing me so I shut that off. I also installed switchback LED front turn signals and had to disable the hyperflash feature in the BCM. Most of the confirmed BCM code changes are posted somewhere in the mods forum. Amazon ODB-II tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Z9LTVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Technically the dealership can void your factory warranty if a failure can be linked to unapproved changes you made (which is pretty much any change at all). For example, if you have a wheel bearing fail, they cannot void your warranty based on you making BCM changes. But if you had an electronic component fail, then you could have issues with the dealership honoring your warranty. I plan on changing the BCM back to the stock config before I drop it at the dealership for maintenance, only takes a few minutes to do.

The stock sub is an 8", but I have no idea of the stock sub enclosure volume or depth limits. I will figure it out sooner or later, even if I have to remove it and measure myself. If I do, I will certainly post the data. I'd love to be able to fit a JL 8" W7 sub, but I'm almost positive it is too deep. Plus those W7's are about $500 a piece! The JL 8" W3v3 is going to be my first choice and I'm really hoping there is enough room. The W3v3 series is a bit shallower, but not as bad as a true shallow mount sub and it still has one hell of a huge magnet. If I can get this to fit, It should make quite a difference, especially with $250 watts going to it from a dedicated amp. Like most things in life, you only get what you pay for, this is especially true with electronics.

looks like there are screws holding it in, not sure how to access the screws, but it may include removing the trim panel underneath the rear roof extension.

Thanks, I did see this and at first I was thinking the same thing, until I saw that the enclosure was made to fit in the spare tire well, not in the rear cargo passenger wall like the stock enclosure. Thus, the depth of his box really wont help much, but I did ask if he happened to measure the stock sub enclosure.

I am going to be replacing most of my Sony 12 speaker system. For a "premium" stereo, its rather disappointing. I am going to replace all 4 of the 6.5" door speakers and the subwoofer, plus install new amps along with a signal processor. I am also very curious of the depth limit in the stock sub enclosure, but so far haven't found an answer. I am trying to avoid having to disassemble the rear cargo area just to measure things, only to have to take it all apart again to do the installation. Also, JL Audio makes a Stealthbox for the gen 1 edge, but when I contacted them to see if they're making one for the gen II Edge, they said no dice. So its either make your own custom box, or reuse the factory enclosure. I'm going to try reusing the stock enclosure, I may try to reinforce it a bit though...just to tighten it up for a much more powerful 8" sub. It appears to be made from rather thin plastic and any decent subs sound quality will probably suffer some due to the box's lack of stiffness and overall robustness. If you compare it to a typical MDF box I mean. I am really hoping that a JL Audio 8W3v3 will fit.

Did you get turn signal LEDs with those fat resistors or did you disable the hyperflash in your BCM?

Thats a pretty good idea, I'll have to try this out.

How much is it new from Ford for a new side mirror assembly?

Thanks again Nick. I'm pretty much over trying to find a decent option for tinting the rears. I also looked into buying a second set, but yes, way too much $$ as usual. Even the HID headlight assemblies are over $1,000 a piece!! Everything is so modular these days, so most times when buying parts, you don't even need most of what you were forced to buy.

The ACC is the only option I don't have that I wish I did. Apart from the ACC buttons on the steering wheel, do you know what else is not included? You can probably see where i'm going with this, do you think its possible to add this option? I see that Ford sells the ACC buttons, and from what it sounds like, the ACC sensor is in the front bumper even if you are not equipped with this option, is this correct to your knowledge?

Sounds good. When I pull the trigger, I'll hit you up about the center speaker. Thats funny you mention that about the clip. I actually did start to open things up back there last weekend, just to get the Ford OEM part number off the sub enlcosure and see if I could measure the max depth. That same damn clip did get effed up a bit, but luckily I was still able to bend the metal clip back into shape and it pressed back together fine. We'll see how it works out next time though. I can't believe they still use that style clip, its a terrible design. I figured out pretty quick that it was kind of a pain in the ass to remove those huge panels. I ordered a nice set of pry tools from Amazon that should help. Its going to take me a little while to get all my stuff together for the install. I'll be spending like $1600 for everything. This includes the Kenwood Amp/DSP, iDatalink Maestro, 4 new door speakers, 8" JL Audio subwoofer, and wiring. I'll save some $$ and do most, if not all the installation myself. The part that I'm still worried about is getting everything set up properly. All I did as a kid was work on cars and car stereos, but everything is so much more integrated and complex now. I feel a bit lost. I certainly have a lot of reading and picking peoples' brains to do.

Did you happen to measure the max depth of the stock sub enclosure? I am hoping to figure this out without having to take it apart just for that. I want to buy everything and have it all installed all at once. I cant really pick a new subwoofer without knowing the depth limitations. I am basically planning on replacing everything but the tweets and head unit.

Did you wrap them in place or did you remove them first? I'm still looking for a way to tint the tail light lens all the way across the back, but it is just too contoured for me to wrap it. Did you tint yours just around the edges or something?

thanks for the reply, and I may take you up on that center speaker. If so, what would you let it go for? From what I see online, a new pair retails for like $90 at the store, and for $60 on Amazon. One more question, did you (or anyone else) happen to measure the exact depth of the stock subwoofer enclosure? I am trying to avoid having to disassemble mine just to measure it, only to take it apart once again for the actual installation. I looked into buying another one, just to use as a basis for designing a custom enclosure, but it cost around $200 and it comes with the stock speaker. That cheap plastic enclosure isn't really ideal for a subwoofer, especially for a much more powerful one, so I'm still considering making a custom box out of MDF instead. I will try the stock one first to see how it sounds I suppose. A custom box is going to be pretty complex in order to use the available space, but it can be done. If I do, I'll post the specs so others can simply copy it.

Thanks for the follow up! Besides the secure idle condition, do you know what other features can be enabled/disabled for "police mode"? If given the option, I would prefer to lock out the transmission when I'm not in the car. Sometimes I'll leave it running while I run back into the house or something. This would be a good extra security measure. Is it actually possible to have the mirror tilt down for reverse, or just wishful thinking?

I think were going after the same thing based on what you said. I see that you already replaced the door speakers too, what did you go with there? Did you just pack the stock sub-woofer enclosure or did you get a better sub also? I figure with a decent amp and a nice punchy 8" sub, along with better speakers all around and I should be happy with it then. I just can't be putting a proper sub-woofer box in the back of my car at this point so I'm more or less stuck with the making the most of the stock configuration. It will be good to hear your feedback once you get your stuff installed...I'll keep an eye out for it.

I have a '16 Edge Sport w/ 12 speaker Sony stereo system. Does anyone know the key dimensions for the rear sub woofer and its enclosure? I need to see how much room there is available in the stock sub enclosure...mainly how deep it is. With one 8" sub, you don't get very much punch, so I want to choose one that will maximize the available space. I will probably end up replacing most of the other speakers too. I'm considering the Kenwood Excelon XR600-6DSP for a new amp. Anyone have one already that cares to comment?

no worries, maybe just post the result once you get to it, I'm in no hurry. I'm surprised more people don't dislike the double honk. From what it seems, most people don't mind it, or even find value in it. Like you, I had other people think I was honking at them too

Good find, and I agree its probably a good idea to enable this feature with the double honk disabled. I checked my BCM as-built configuration that I downloaded from Ford and it is currently disabled. Let me know if it works on yours if you try it. Thanks!

Yea sure, I can create a CAD model of whatever you need. I just need to know exactly what you want. You want to create an extension to the current intake to duct in air coming directly in from the grille? Once I know what you want, I can take some measurements off mine and get started on a CAD model. I order all kinds of parts from rapid prototyping companies on a regular basis so I am very familiar with the available processes, materials, and costs. Just do your best to explain exactly what you want to make and we'll go from there. Here is a screenshot of a model I just made really quick as an example, only took me a few minutes to create this basic shape. But technically I could upload this to a rapid prototype or 3D printing company such as Protolabs and get it quoted, ordered, and delivered within like 4 or 5 business days. I'll do some research into what material options will withstand heat the best.

That double honk has done nothing but annoy me and frighten other people since day one. Its very difficult to remember it every time you get out and close the door while running. Plus its garnered me the stink eye on more than one occasion from people thinking I'm honking at them for some reason. I figure I've been driving for over 20 years and I've never needed (or wanted) my car to remind me its running every time I get out and close the door, especially via the horn! For me, the much more simple work around was changing a 1 to a 0 and continuing to leave the key FOB in my pocket at all times. Besides, even if I do manage to accidentally leave it running, which has NEVER happened before, its not the end of the world, the car will just shut off after 30 minutes anyway. I imagine that I'm probably a little more sick of this feature than most people though. I almost always remote start my car a few minutes ahead of time and I have a two year old, so I'm constantly getting in and out with the engine running. Plus that horn is loud as all hell in a parking garage! But to each his own, at least we have the option to keep it or disable it now!