roots57

Here is one ad for the cheap $10 ABS Chinese version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4X-Ford-Black-Center-Caps-54mm-Hub-Caps-2-1-8-Inch-FITS-ALL-FORD-MODELS-/302500439229?hash=item466e6e64bd Here are some better ones for $20 that actually ship from somewhere within the U.S., I'd recommend these, I'm buying these next time I need them, my current ones are already sun fading, ABS is the worst plastic for stuff that gets exposed to sunlight: https://www.ebay.com/p/4pcs-lot-54mm-Blue-St-Car-Wheel-Hub-Center-for-Ford-Focus-2-3/803223552?iid=272886366730&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D7ec7a0455eb144d9bf97f7196543bb00%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D112601612764&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Just browse around eBay a bit too, there are countless ads for these hubs, just keep an eye on where they ship from and the size/color they are, some look black in the pic but say blue in the ad.

Yea that looks fine. If mine ever gets too beat up I'm just gona wrap it instead. While on the subject of Ford emblems, your wheels probably have blue FORD center hub caps right? I replaced mine with black ones that I got off eBay for like $15 for a set of 4. If you are interested I can forward you the link. There's all kinds of them available, you just have to make sure you get the right size ( 2.125" or 54mm is the diameter that fits).

Yea sure, a closer pic would be great. If I ever have to replace mine, I don't want to spend $100 on another custom painted one, and if the vinyl looks good, I may just do that instead. And yes, my wheels are powder coated in black gloss. I was actually going to suggest that you do that too so that you can complete the color theme on yours. The shops around me in SoCal charge about $125-$150 per wheel to strip and powder coat them...just an FYI. Just don't have them sprayed in clear coat after. My clear coat is peeling off on two of mine so eventually I need to have them redone. I think it was from a really hot day when me and Xtra were carving up the canyon snake run. My brakes, and subsequently the wheels, got so hot that it actually caused the clear coat to delaminate. I also lost the two front center hub caps that day, which I think just melted right out of the hubs (they were just cheap ABS plastic Chinese ones from eBay). Powder coat comes out with a nice gloss finish anyways, so in hindsight I would have omitted the clear coat, had I known. Powder coat is a bake cure so it is more heat resistant than traditional paint.

I bet there's a video for this also. I know there's some on servicing and lubing the Gen II Edge panoramic sunroof.

There are aftermarket versions of these lights you can but online, but because your car didn't come with them from the factory, you will need to wire them yourself. The Euro version of the Gen II Edge has an available option for round fog lights inside the LED triangles, there are also aftermarket versions of these that I've seen online.

There is a thread for this somewhere, I'll look for it. A couple of us have posted directions. Don't just pull on it though, it is screwed on from the inside. You have to remove the entire front end, including the bumper cover and grille. Its not that hard though, probably an hour or so your first time. Hardest part is unscrewing the bumper cover from the fenders on each side because the screws are tucked way down inside the fender.

for sure, just let me know...what exactly did you do to your front Ford emblem?

I run my tires on the top end for pressure too, I try to keep them at 45 psi. All the rear end numbers seem to show about 2+ degrees of negative camber, at least its negative and is probably better for cornering.

I'll do the wrapping for free if it's cheaper for you to just ship them to me and then back, I really don't mind, I enjoy doing it. The vinyl is only like $12 for a piece big enough for both. I did mine in gloss black and they still look just as good 10 months later. Get a couple of quotes and see how much they'd charge you, but I bet it's at least a $100 per side. Normally I think chrome exhaust tips look good, but not when it's the only chrome on the car, I hated it on mine and it's the first thing I wrapped.

Here's my numbers

They aren't too bad, especially if you can lift up the rear end to make it easier to work. There's just 4 screws on each side. Wrapping them was the hardest part.

Wow, it's funny, I was never really a big fan of the electric spice color, but that wrap design makes it look great, especially because you also did the top of the rear hatch spoiler, that bird's-eye pic the money shot! You had the side mirrors done too?

I still have the print out from the original alignment after the springs were put it, I'll find it and post the alignment numbers tomorrow. I do remember there being a slight negative camber in the rear wheels, you can actually see it if you are directly behind the car.

I wish a brake upgrade kit was available for the gen II sport, apart from the Rotora BBK that costs upwards of $4k. The stock brakes are just very insufficient IMO for a 2-ton+ vehicle.

Technically yes, but it is dissipated thru a heat sink, so I doubt it would ever make a substantial difference in cabin temp.

yea thats a lot looser than what we have in California. 8 times to try to fix something just seems like a ridiculous amount to qualify for lemon law protection. at least the 30 day out of service rule is there for you.

No bulb out indicator with these, just plug and play. I believe the bulb out indicator is only for turn signals, the indicator being rapid flash. No resistors needed either. If you are going to buy them, let me know, I have a coupon code for 15% off, I'll give it to you.

Yes I just figured this out myself, it uses thermoelectric coolers to reduce the temp of the ambient air being sucked into the port below the seats. Pretty cool. I'm glad it doesn't use A/C flow.

I doubt you will find these tires in a shop near by, especially in the 21" size. And yes, it surely sounds like the dude was just trying to get you to purchase from his shop, and probably hasn't even seen an Atturo tire in person, let alone drive on them. And the ride is nearly the same as the Pirellis, actually a bit less harsh than the p-zeros IMO, probably a result of the slightly softer compound and deeper tread depth on the AZ850s.

The plasti-dipped emblems on my 2016 sport look as good as the day I did it and almost a year later. And like Mikula said, just apply low tack painters masking tape about an inch away from the lettering, no need for any time consuming X-acto knife trimming. The natural edges of the raised lettering will provide the weak tear areas when peeling off the over spray. In my opinion this is really the only valid use of plasti-dip on a car. Best tip I can give you is don't try using the plasti-dip if it is any cooler than like 70 degrees out or the spray will come out like snot! Get a can of glossifier too and add a few coats at the end to make it look a little more like real paint or black molded plastic, even so, it will still be somewhat matte finished afterwards. I can post a recent pic of my badges if you want to see. Buy some plastic drop sheeting too and wrap the rear of your car in it before taping off the badges to prevent any overspray from getting over the rest of the car, especially if spraying outdoors. Just watch a few youtube videos for techniques. Its pretty simple actually.

I believe the heating feature is done with electric heating elements (pretty much just resistors) positioned throughout the seat (similar to an electric heating blanket) but the cooling feature is A/C air flow piped into seats that exits thru the perforated inlays and onto your back and arse (hence the blower sound when turned on).

That new style screen should have much better air flow. I'm going to look at mine and see if they are filters or screens because one day I will replace them with the new screen style one to get better cooling hopefully.

I will say that those numbers way different than what I got after my H&R's. The new springs actually evened out the car better than the stock springs. Both sides were within 1/4" of each other front and rear, and like most other people who put these springs in, the drop was slightly more than the 1.2" x 1.6" stated by H&R. The only advice I have is to make sure that when you measure, your car is parked on a very even/flat surface. Also, you will get the most accurate numbers if you measure from the center of the wheel hub or outer rim diameter up to the fender lip (if you aren't already measuring this way). Hopefully everything works out for you.

I recommend that you use LED's instead of the incandescent bulbs.