roots57

I was torn between the black and the ruby red. Ultimately chose the red because of the pano moon roof, got mine @ the very end of 2016 so there weren't many left unless I wanted to move up to a 2017, but the incentives were nowhere near as good at the time. I would have opted for the lighter color interior myself, if it was an option for the Sport. Fortunately the cooled seats make up for the SoCal sun. Totally makes the black interior tolerable, a couple of minutes with the coolers on and all is well.

Here's a link with instructions on how to get the FORScan software tool and the required "extended license": http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=836 If you are just planning to use a laptop inside the car, then this USB style OBD-II adapter worked perfectly for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Z9LTVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They also make a Bluetooth version if you prefer, along with plenty of others that are supposed to work Here is the Body Control Module (BCM) change you need to make: 726-27-01 x1xx xxxx xxxx Front Lamp Outage Detection ON 726-27-01 x0xx xxxx xxxx Front Lamp Outage Detection OFF (you just change the second digit over from "1" to "0" to disable) If you haven't already, you will need to read up on using the FORScan tool first, or just watch a couple decent YouTube videos. Its really pretty simple in the end. Not sure what LED bulbs Nick has, but these are a decent option too: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/LED-Bulbs-For-Car-Turn-Signal-Lights-s/66.htm?searching=Y&Search=7443 Good Luck!

I am switching to Mobil One full synthetic @ my next change, now that I've gone over 10k miles. I'm going away from the Motorcraft blended oil. I've used Mobil 1 oil in my vehicles almost exclusively for the last 20 years, IMO the best engine oil. The problem is that I doubt I can get the dealership to put it in, so I may have to do it myself. Has anyone had success getting their dealership to use something other than Motorcraft oil if requested, or even provided for them to put in?

I'm sure that's exactly why they have that policy, at least at any SoCal auto parts stores within a half a days drive of the ski resorts. Thats exactly why I know this, I was trying to find a place that I could return them if I didn't use them, no such luck. And guess what, I didn't need them. The all wheel drive with decent tires is totally fine unless its a blizzard with no plowing going on. Some walmarts allow returns on tire chains, found out afterwards. Their selection is rather limited though. I didn't realize there where so many other types of designs for these, below that Amazon ad there's tons of other kinds, I bet if they look more like the "approved type" you could get away with it easily, how are they gona know. The design in the ad you posted has 3 circumferential grip pads that look way different than normal chains, but there appears to be other ones that look more like traditional chains/cables that I bet would totally work, even if not "approved". Plus I bet you could return them on amazon if you didn't use them.

I live in the LA area and I bought a set of chains for my 16 sport last winter, but never ended up needing them. I still snowboard a few times a year, usually just go to Big Bear and they do often require chains in severe weather, regardless of your vehicle's drive system. According to the size chart, they will fit my wheels/tires. I would prefer to use the cable style ones instead, but couldn't get them last minute like I could the old fashioned chain style. If you look for some that will fit the 245/50-20 size, then there's a good chance they will also fit on the 265/40-21 set up. The problem is most stores have a no return policy on tire chains so you're kinda screwed if they don't fit, apart from unloading them @ a discount on eBay or something.

They're great, at first I just got them because I wanted black lugs to complete my chrome delete, but I'm glad I did because they seem to be much better than the stock lugs anyway. Got them off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U3THY8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I replaced the factory lugs with black Gorilla Acorns and they held up to a 3 ft breaker bar. Probably because they aren't a hex drive, it resembles more of an offset Torx drive (the safety lock feature), which is a much better drive system, plus I think they're made out of better material.

My dealership did this to mine after the last oil change/tire rotation. A week later I got a flat and fatally deformed the cheap sheet metal wrench that comes with the equally cheap scissor jack, all because the lazy ass service tech hammered the lugs on with the impact wrench insanely tight instead of using a torque wrench. I had to use a huge breaker bar to loosen all the rest. Threw the cheap wrench in the garbage because its useless. It will work if the lugs are tightened to the proper torque, but not much past that. Bought a decent wrench that fits in back in case I run into this again (I suggest you all do this). But I'm also going to make sure they use a torque wrench next time because I'm checking afterwards.

I bet if you fill that empty space under there somehow it will make a difference. Not sure what your options are to keep it easily removable. You could even just stuff a thick blanket underneath.

That is definitely one way to look at it. I do get plenty of smiles per gallon. And my daily commute is laughably short, about 7.0 miles round trip, so overall I still don't spend very much on fuel. Its just too damn easy to sprint around town all the time in this thing.

Oh yeah, I remember your post with the cool doggy table in the back, makes more sense now for sure. Its a kinda big open space underneath the table right? Maybe try filling that in or lining it to deaden some of the drum effect you might be getting from that?

Atturo doesn't make a 245/50-20 in the AZ850 but they do make a 255/50-20 that will fit just fine on those rims. Maybe try those out with the pressure dropped down into the mid to low 30's. They should give you a much quicker hook-up compared to those stock all-seasons, especially if you think tire spin is something keeping you out of the 12's. You could even just try two on the front at first, but for less than $500 you can get all four corners.

Awesome, thanks for replying to my request! I've been trying to get this info for quite awhile now and this is saving me from taking it apart just to measure, only to do it all again for the install, much appreciated! It looks like the available depth after your mod of the stock enclosure is just shy of 4.0". And the stock sub has a max depth of 2-5/8". Was that piece you cut out of the stock enclosure that substantial? I've got another question you may know the answer to. With the stock enclosure in place, how much room is there to add a spacer ring to the sub before it runs into the inner wall of the plastic wall liner? If I can put on a 1/2" spacer, I can probably squeeze a much better sub in there, especially if I was to cut away that same piece inside the enclosure you did. When using smaller subs to give a nice punch, the shallow mount versions just don't have it, especially when only running a single sub.

I'm surprised you find it bad enough to try fixing it further. These Gen-II's have gotten great reviews for their quiet cabin, it was something I noticed immediately, and before reading about how quiet they were. On the other hand, I definitely noticed the increase in cabin noise after switching from 20" wheels w/ all seasons to 21" wheels w/ summer performance tires.

Those of you running tuned gen-II sports are getting equal to or better than stock fuel economy. And it appears as though I am quite the lead-foot. @ 13.5 mpg, I must be getting the worst gas mileage of any Edge owner lol. I knew that I'd get much lower than advertised mpg's based on my driving style, but I didn't expect it to be this bad. I guess I could try to drive like a normal human being for a week and see if I can get something more respectable.

If you are looking for an affordable alternative to basically every other 21" tire on the market, those Atturos may be a decent option. I read/watched a lot of reviews on them before I pulled the trigger and a lot of people with dodge scat packs love them because of their cheap price and good hook up when pulling 0-60's and 1/4 mile runs. I think the 20" Atturos go for like $115 per

I get awful mpg in my 16 sport, I average about 13.5 now with 11k on it, but I drive very aggressive and almost always in sport mode, plus I don't put many miles on it and mostly short trips. I'm basically worst case scenario. Laughably I only get 1.0 mpg more compared to my previous 07' 5.3 L vortec Tahoe. But then again most of us with a sport weren't necessarily buying for fuel economy.

I have not gotten another alignment since my H&Rs went in either. Mostly because the ride height has remained the same, no changes during settling. I'll probably have it done soon though, it's been awhile. I run my Atturos at 45 psi and still have no complaints about them, I'll be buying them again most likely.

I posted this here because I figured those of us who are mod enthusiasts would probably appreciate this most. I don't normally care for the suv's that euro sports car companies put out but this thing looks absolutely bad-ass. As a sports suv it's gona be tough to beat. The lines on this thing are beautiful imo and if I'm ever in a position to afford one I'm wasting no time. Great video in general.

Does anyone else with a Gen-II think that the brake pedal location is a little low in relation to the throttle pedal? I almost always end up with my toes up on the lever arm when braking, like its set a bit too low. I am average height (5'10") and I sit nice and upright in the car. I never gave it much thought until I saw a video review of the edge and the reviewer happened to mention the same thing. Not a huge deal at all, but now I'm curious if anyone else has noticed this. I may try to put some aftermarket pedal pad over the stock pedal to offset it away from the arm at least.

I believe that they are the same for the fwd sport, nick h. has them on his fwd 2015 sport

I have it on mine and it's not translucent at all so painting the inside wouldn't work. If it was clear, you would be able to see the double sided tape around the edges. You could paint match the outside of it, but I'm sure you would need to prime it first with something and you would have to use plasticizer it the paint, similar to how bumper covers are painted, but that might work. I would suggest that you simply use clear PPF (paint protection film) on the leading edge of the hood. It's thick enough to protect against most road debris. Way cheaper than trying to paint match something.

Thanks for the links. I contacted Rotora and their kit is actually like $6k for all four corners and that's with a 50% discount and a limited sponsorship agreement. This just includes agreeing to put on fender stickers for a year and posting reviews and going to some car shows, etc.

Does power stop makes a z23 kit for the gen II edge? I'm looking for a performance brake upgrade without having to go all in for a $4k Rotora BBK. The more I drive my '16 Sport, the more I get frustrated with these seemingly insufficient brakes and is probably my biggest criticisms of this car. There is plenty about it I do love, but these brakes are killing me! Anyone have suggestions? I don't mind investing some decent $$ in better brakes, but I'm trying to avoid spending $4k.

Yes please! I'd love to know the depth of the stock enclosure, from the outer mounting surface to the inside maximum depth. Thanks in advance. I am hoping I can find a nice powerful 8" that will fit and provide enough punch for my liking, and this depth dimension is the limiting factor.