roots57

Just remove the entire headlamp assembly then replace the bulb. I've had mine off many times, it only takes a few minutes as there are only 3 screws, one screw is plastic so be a bit careful with that one.

I bought these ones from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HYVT2R4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They worked for about 6 months, but then the white started to flicker. Turns out there wasn't quite enough voltage to them. There was only about 9 volts going to them which was just under the limit to keep them operating properly. This seems to be a common problem. I was going to try fixing it, but decided it wasn't worth the trouble, although I really liked the look.

Monroe now makes an OEM replacement rear shock for Gen-II Edge. They are cheaper than the Motorcraft shocks ($32 vs $58). I'm going to give them a try. I've already had one of the OEM Motorcraft shocks fail completely, all the oil was waiting for me in my parking spot one morning, I almost slipped and fell in it. Monroe p/n 37378 I also compared the listed specs against my leftover OEM Motorcraft shock and all looks good (extended length, travel length, lower mounting hole spacing, and stem thread). I'm hoping these Monroe's will hold up a bit better with my suspension mods (H&R springs and ADDCO sway bar).

I tinted my headlight lenses with light smoke film for protection against debris/fading as well as for looks. The headlights are fairly easy to do on the difficulty scale, there are some really good dry apply films now that I found way easier to work with compared to wet apply films. The tail lights are a different story, very difficult due to the extreme 3D surface profiles, they also don't really need the same protection compared to the headlights. They also make the dry apply film in clear if you prefer. In a few years when I sell/trade I will pull it off and the lenses will be like brand new.

The body work where the mud flaps are mounted looks identical to the 15-18 sport (esp the front), theres a really good chance they will fit the ST also. If it is a must-have item, $40 isn't a huge loss if you can't make them fit, esp considering there isn't any other options. The Chinese mudflaps fit perfectly on my sport.

2016 Edge Sport, 19k miles. My car threw this P144C code the other day. Anyone have any experience with this one before I take it to service? The code is apparently "P144C - Evaporative Emission System Purge Check Valve Performance" Everything is still running fine, but the remote start feature is disabled and the check-engine warning light is still on.

I dont remember seeing BMW anywhere. They came in two plastic bags, I'll see if I can find the packing slip.

yeah no worries, I should have plenty. I'll let you know when I get them and you can PM me your mailing address.

Small screws from McMaster Carr usually come in a box of like 50 or 100 so I'll send you a handful when I get them if you want. I need to wait until my paddles arrive so I can determine the thread size.

Looks good. I agree having them a little bigger will help when shifting during tight cornering. Normally with my hands at a comfortable wheel position, I can only reach the paddles with my pinky fingers. Its tough to get to them at all when the wheel is turned. Just ordered mine from AliExpress and used a first-time buyer $4 off coupon so all-in I only spent $34.60 with free shipping. I will probably get some black oxide coated set screws to make them less noticeable. On eBay they are $56, but not sure if those are from the same mfg

I assume they mean turn off the engine first, but I've only heard the term flame-out when a jet engine shuts down during flight. Technical writing from an incompetent translator is always good for a laugh.

Bought my 2016 Sport on 12/08/16, just hit 18k, I average a little over 11k per year.

No difference, the "facelift" to the second generation Edge is for model year 2019, should fit the same for a 2018 model. 2015-2018 are the same as far as I know.

Thats a good idea. You may want to get some PPF knifeless tape so you can do your cuts on the car without scratching the paint, or you can try cutting it ahead of time then matching it up

I thought so! I'm certainly hoping its that simple of a problem for mine too and not something serious. It totally sounds like exhaust tubing clanging against something. Maybe I'll give my exhaust a few nudges with my foot in different directions to see if I can recreate the sound and verify this is the source. Thanks!!

I'm pretty sure you can option the Thule roof racks from the dealership as long as you do not opt for the pano-moon roof. The moonroof omits the necessary side rails needed for the roof rack. If you insist on having the moonroof, then you will need to piece together an aftermarket rack.

Are we sure that ADDCO sold all of the units from the first run? If not, it might be worth checking with them

I have this odd noise coming from the rear end, its hard to describe, but it's not a squeak. It almost sounds like the exhaust is swaying and bumping into some other part of the car (like a hollow tapping noise). It happens when I drive over an uneven bump or go over a speed bump at an angle and I hear the bump/tapping noise once or twice then it stops when the suspension finishes damping out. I posted this here because I only noticed it recently and the last work I had done was the sway bar install. I had the rear wheels off last weekend and none of the rear suspension components seem to be loose or broken or anything. The car seems to be driving/handling fine too. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what this might be? Kind of driving me nuts now!

I suppose using pop rivets would make them not quite as easy to steal, so that's one advantage. As for paint rub, I thought about trying to add some kind of buffer between the mud flaps and the paint, like some thin double sided VHB tape, but thought it would be too difficult to apply during installation. You have to more or less shove them into place, then hold them there while applying the screws/rivets. If adding a double-sided adhesive to the edges of the flaps, you would also need to keep it from sticking on until you were done with all the fasteners. I saw that becoming too difficult to manage. Plus, I figure I can just use some polishing compound to buff out any surface scratches/marks if I ever decide to remove them permanently. Most likely they will remain on the car though.

...some more details about my Chinese mud flaps installation. All of the mounting holes lined up with the original hole locations of the car for the front and back with one exception, the middle hole on the rear left flap was off by about 1/4", so I drilled a new hole in the flap at the proper location. I used the 3 fender liner screws to mount the rears. Here's an inside view of the rear left, if you look closely you can see the misaligned hole just below the middle screw: I may take the rears off and cut away some material from the lower inside area, it doesn't quite match the profile of the fender liner, plus the design has a "cupped" area that will just collect dirt/water. I will post some images of the material I cut away after I do it. The important thing is that the outer profile matches the body panels very well for both front and rear. For the front, I started with the bottom hole first, remove the push rivet and reinstall thru the hole in the mud flap. The bottom OEM rivet was long enough to account for the added thickness of the flap, but for the 3 in the wheel well, I used slightly longer ones. I did these 3 wheel well rivets next. Last step is to fold the small tab at the top of the flap behind the edge of the fender and secure with one of the metal clips (you can see the clip in this pic if you zoom in a bit): There are all kinds of options for plastic rivets on Amazon, I actually like the screw-type and may replace the push rivets with these. Just make sure you get 6mm or 1/4" diameter. I 'd recommend not using plastic pop rivets. I'm sure those would work too, but you have to drill them out to remove them since they are one-time use only. I would use the push or screw type so that you can remove them easily later. I may try these out, they appear to be long enough: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-961-050-961050-Nylon-Rivet/dp/B002ET131K They also sell them at Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, etc. Here's the purchase link from the eBay seller I bought the mud flaps from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Splash-Guards-Mud-Flaps-Front-Rear-For-Ford-Edge-2015-2017-sport-version/312044726751?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Dd09264a3a57a4dafb03b2a4b4abe7385%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D312044726751%26itm%3D312044726751&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A128855df-c00e-11e8-bdff-74dbd1803b58%7Cparentrq%3A0c2f7cbd1660ac3cb4115a67fffb88d8%7Ciid%3A1 Couple more pics: