1004ron

Which filter would be best for a daily commuter? K&N PS-7037 or the HP-7037? https://www.amazon.com/K-N-HP-7037-Oil-Filter/dp/B07SKJ77YM/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=HP-7037&qid=1599428131&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com/K-N-PS-7037-Oil-Filter/dp/B01LAXYY02/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=PS-7037&qid=1599428226&sr=8-2

I have never been interested in a "tune" and this thread has made me less likely to consider it in the future.

They may not be in agreement with your diagnostics and failure analysis results, and what accountability are you expecting from them. They will have a clause that covers them against claims of consequential damage, and with that in place you effectively agreed that the risk is solely on yourself. None of us here know both parties story, so lets not turn this into a smear campaign - keep it cordial as you have been.

I have zero interest in a tune, but from what I've read here folks are generally happy with Livernois. What was Liverois' response?

This year Ford replaced the Orange with Yellow,

Not so obvious, ......many here change the PTU fluid themselves. Depends on Year/Model. Please consider adding Location and Year/Model to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Browse the forum threads on this and I believe you'll find the personal preference ranges from every 30K miles to every 50K miles. I do it myself at around 30K miles.

There's no "chain on that axle" , what made you think there was? Please add your location and vehicle model/year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

My Sport bought new in March 2017 battery has shown than its nearing end of life, which is about when you can expect it to need replacement. I can tell because the time with it on ACC power before the warning to start the engine or shut down, has reduced considerably - I have one of the Jump Start packs so will wait to replace the battery when starts showing signs of a slow start.

Thanks ONEDGE16 Wonder why its not available to my VIN?

Can anyone post the screen showing this latest version - I haven't done any updates for quite some time. Wont let me download anything, because the first step asking for the VIN.

On the Ford Owner site after typing in my VIN it says I'm up to date - I haven't done an update in ages. "Your SYNC system (SYNC3 v3.0.19205) is up to date"

The service shop just round off for the billing - the dipstick is what you need to be concerned with. Slightly above normal on the dipstick isn't an issue. BTW, is it an Edge or Escape?

That's correct. My wife's 2015 Mustang and my 2017 Sport used the Orange, and when I recently changed the water pump on the Mustang I found that Ford has changed the coolant spec to Yellow earlier this year. It looks more green than yellow. http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/quickref/FCSD%20Motorcraft%20Yellow%20Antifreeze-Coolant%20Backward%20Compatability.pdf

No confusion, and agree it could assist someone that might not receive the mail when it arrives. I got early notice from Carfax on the day it was published.

In 3.5 years it came and went over about a 7 day period last year at a time we had very unusual climate weather changes, and haven't seen it again. Haven't done anything with the vent holes etc.

I wasn't getting at the typo, just the comment that he low pressure warning light didn't come on, but the title indicates that it did, and even if it only comes on when the ambient temperature is high, that's still a problem.

I think it was an invite to "ST" only.

This is the response I got from the dealership service manager:

Welcome. Go ahead and post your questions in the appropriate section. Please add location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Don't understand what you mean by that - see thread title : "Intermiten Oil Pressure Light"

Make sure both your cooling fans are coming on with the AC on and when the AC is off and its idling. If the fans are coming on when they should and the temp gauge is normal, then it does look like the water pump failure and coolant in the oil has damaged the bearings. Use a good synthetic oil and OEM oil filter and see if that improves things.

If it was mine, I'd use a mini butane torch and rosin core solder - spread the clamp crimp area, secure the copper cable in it, squeeze the crimp area onto the copper cable, then carefully heat with butane torch while applying the rosin core solder. Arrange the wring loom to give enough slack for the repaired connector to reach the battery terminal, secure everything and coat with Battery Terminal Protector.

Thanks - merged.

Do you have a link to this issue that you say is reported on multiple years and models - please post it here. What's actually happening with yours that leads you to believe that its your door latch causing the battery to drain?