1004ron

Its a legitimate question - what's your actual problem with that? So, what is it with the OEM filter that you consider makes it a poor choice?

I know people that have added a hose down near the ground with a small filter attached. For me, I'll go with my catch can as its not much effort or cost to help towards improving the air we breathe, ....... and everything collected in the catch can I put in my waste oil container that goes to AutoZone.

The stock air filter is designed to accommodate max flow (wide open throttle at high rpm) without a pressure drop that could impact performance - very few folks would operate near max flow, so unless you're racing and want to squeeze out every minute bit of performance, there'd be nothing gained paying a premium for those filters.

What's wrong with the stock Motocraft filter?

I'm not surprised the dealership didn't understand the request.

The oil consumption and catch can volume and rate of fill is not normal, and points to bad rings. The tune automatically suggests spirited driving or racing, which will make it less likely that Ford will volunteer warranty.

The inner halogen are the DRL's - they will come on when the vehicle is in drive. See mine with LED's in place of the halogen.

That's what I assumed, and just wanted to check if that was a correct assumption.

Is that if you're changing coolant type, or is it also required for a maintenance coolant replacement?

Not too serious depending on the specific content of the tap water, but most locations have minerals (calcium, iron, chlorine, sodium, .....) that can precipitate in the cooling system and cause problems. Distilled water is so cheap and readily available, there's no reason to take a risk with tap water.

I just recently installed the drilled and slotted version, and very happy with it - just a few dollars more, and I think worth the extra. Sold by Jeggs on Amazon and free 2-day delivery. Power Stop K7143 Front Brake Kit with Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors and Z23 Evolution Ceramic Brake Pads

So much better. That previous intake to me just smacks of boy racer and would have made me think twice about buying.

@DaMiFo I have a new set of the original lug nuts (warranty replacements) but might go for those McGard instead. https://www.amazon.com/McGard-64074-Chrome-Black-Thread/dp/B00DIX0ZSS/ref=sr_1_14?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvo_qBRDQARIsAE-bsH_8tDBFKWCSGvVFR1FzMcihTDw9DBge0Z3jSL5skL55Q1K6p7dfm0MaAkAbEALw_wcB&hvadid=177574221527&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1017825&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1958230932780261336&hvtargid=kwd-4096568384&hydadcr=5488_9590406&keywords=mcgard+lug+nuts&qid=1564745947&s=gateway&sr=8-14

13/16" = 20.6375 mm , so the 21mm emergency lug wrench would work, a little loose, but snug enough.

No, I can't answer that one - I can check my wife's 2015 Mustang original lug nuts when I get home, or you can contact that supplier. The original Edge lug nuts are 21mm If you plan on using an impact wrench, consider getting one of these sockets. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XMDSJC/?coliid=I1ZARASLP4FJ20&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

If you plan on using an impact wrench then yes, you'll need to get better lug nuts and those you're looking at are good and correct. Remember, your emergency wrench in the trunk won't work when the lug nuts are deformed. Ford using an impact wrench not only damaged the lug nuts, but also chipped the coating on my wheels. I don't use a torque wrench , and agree 162 seems high.

I've looked at this for my wife's Mustang, and just cant see spending that much coin, so she's stuck with the small 4.1" screen and Sync 2.

Do you have any reliable sources confirming that?

I can confirm that it is an 11mm hex socket that's needed - I had a metric set that I bought a while back in preparation for this job, then on the day found it lacks the needed 11mm and I ran around to all the stores in my area and none have an 11mm , not on its own and not in a set, so in one shop I grabbed a digital calliper and found an imperial set and the 7/16" was a good match so bought that set. The 7/16" is a very good snug fit. Brake job went smooth, the rotors needed a beating to break free of the corrosion. Can't comment on braking performance just yet as I've only done the break-in, but can confirm that it got rid of the vibration/drone when braking at 60mph and above, and they look good. Complete front kit order on Amazon for $170 (retailer is Jeggs) and two day shipping from the manufacturer in Chicago IL - goods received in perfect order.

Congrats on your purchase. I would also look at going back to the stock air intake, which will actually draw in COLD air vs that intake drawing in warm air from the engine compartment.

Just visualize that weatherstip coming off, and it'll be pretty obvious where the muddy water thrown off the wheel is going to go, the areas I've outlined. Also seen in the attached photos is the inner seal, and with that in tact there's no way water or debris, or noise is going to make its way inside.

I don't believe that's correct - when mine was hanging it allowed all the mud to foul the inside of the door. No difference in wind noise when I put it back in place.

My drivers side was hanging down and allowing mud to get past. I pulled it clear, cleaned all the crud out the groove, cleaned it and the metal surface with brake cleaner, squeezed the seal a little with pliers, and its been holding tight for three months now. Agree, poor design.

It has a one-way vent to allow pressure to build when hot, and not allow it to draw vacuum as it cools, ........ to prevent collapsing the coolant hoses, and drawing in dust/dirt into the coolant pump seal.

Yes, if you want to ensure that the dash accurately displays the correct wheel, then each tire rotation needs a re-learn procedure. You can do the re-learn using a device, or by partially deflating each wheel. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PNP9SVB/?coliid=I33UYEY6ZPLL0X&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it EDIT: Learnt from @omar302 that no tool or procedure needed - all automatic.