1004ron

I've never given other NAV option a try - maybe time I do a little research and experiment.

Almost a year later and NA 1 19 is released. Think I'll skip this one and save the $109

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I sure hope that you kept the original alternator. Many of the Auto shops do have the correct test equipment for CCA. If the battery tests good your current problem looks more like a bad reman alternator, but you should also do a search on how to perform a parasitic draw test - if your car stands for more than a couple of weeks you should look at getting a battery tender.

Not sure how to answer that?

Who did you buy it from? You say that at the time of purchase you noticed the condensation and the seller said that they would not fix it - that was the time to stand your ground and insist it be fixed, or walk away. You say you did some research - did that research include this forum? What method did you attempt to remove the moisture? It's still under warranty so call Ford Corp. and open a warranty claim with them, or try another dealership. The light bar not lighting up - not all the models do, what model do you have?

Puzzled why you replaced the battery and alternator when all tests indicated they were good, and now have a suspect reman alternator. A thorough check of all connections and grounding straps is a good idea. A friendly tip, when asking for assistance like this mention everything you've done and tried and the results up front.

Did you forget to mention the new battery? Did you install a new alternator or a "remanufactured" one - I ask because they are notoriously unreliable. Just changing parts out without any diagnostics might have cost you a few $'s unnecessary. Most places like Autozone will load test the battery and the alternator in the car. If you have a digital multimeter we could walk you through a few diagnostic tests.

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You're right, impact sockets are a lot beefier. I've watched the tech's at my dealership use the pneumatic impact tool and when the lug nut comes off the thread the nut and socket smack the wheels, and my wheels have the scars to show. I first encountered the Ford lug nuts with the soft aluminium outer layer when I took my wife's Mustang in for new tires - I had to purchase a set of lug nuts from the fitment shop. Ford supplied a full set of the same type of lug nuts when I found that the dealership had damaged them - because the nuts "swell" the dealership use a 22mm socket which makes it worse for the owner when they attempt to use the standard 21mm socket or the emergency wrench in the trunk. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a15339991/swollen-lug-nuts-are-costing-ford-drivers-time-and-money-lawsuit-claims/

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Yes, permanently logged in.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XMDSJC/?coliid=I1ZARASLP4FJ20&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it I like them and believe they'll be of benefit to those that spin the nuts completely off with an impact wrench - I haven't bought one yet because so infrequently take my wheels off and do it by hand.

I wouldn't focus on oil pressure light coming on when the engine cut out while the ignition was still one. When you tried the jumpers, did it crank? What engine? Don't think anyone here would be able to offer any pointers without doing some diagnostics, or if you could have got the stored error codes, which won't be possible with it on its way to the dealership. Please consider adding your location and vehicle model/year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

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A "5 week old" vehicle with a poor maintenance record for its 135,000 miles covered?

My wife's 2015 3.7L V6 water pump started leaking at 63K miles and a little research uncovered a TSB covering the premature pump failure and the cure being a check valve in a hose that runs from the expansion tank to the thermostat housing. The TSB covers models up to 2014 and my wife's being a 2015 should have had the check valve installed in the factory, but it didn't have it - my dealership contacted Ford Corp and they agreed to implement the TSB. Could it be that this check valve plays a role in the pump failures on the 3.5 and 3.7L Edge? https://ford.oemdtc.com/588/coolant-pump-leakage-2011-2014-ford-mustang TSB 14-0212 ISSUE: Some 2011-2014 Mustang vehicles equipped with a 3.7L engine may exhibit coolant pump leakage due to air entering the system.

My dealership used an impact wrench on my 2017 Sport for its first couple of tire rotations, and chipped the coating on my wheels and damaged the two-part lug nuts. Ford replaced the lug nuts and I do all tire rotations without using my impact wrench on them.

I get this error when attempting to access the Classified section. Sorry, there is a problem You do not have permission to view this content. Error code: 1F176/3

For those that use the stock engine air filters. Motorcraft FA-1912-A Air Element - $9.90 on Amazon

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Welcome. Try a forum search and you'll find a number of threads on that topic, and a few that will answer that question in detail. Please consider adding location and Model/Year to your signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/?area=signature

LOL, that's way off-topic.

I run the $17 Ford Motorcraft and real happy with it. Its highly unlikely that the engine can ingest/swallow the volume of air that the stock air filter's flow restriction inhibits performance.