1004ron

I have quick connectors on my three vehicles and connect them to battery tenders if they're going to be parked for more than two weeks. My Harley is on the tender when its not riding season, and when we go on vacation whichever car we don't use for the road trip goes on the tender. Recently when I was tinkering with the Forscan and ignored the warning to start or shut down, I left it on the tender overnight. Some folks wont ever have the need.

There's far more of these engines on the road, and far less reports of oil pan leaks, so a clear indication that they have found a reliable solution, the one you mention above.

Sorry for the late update. I deleted the BT pairing on my phone and Sync 3, re-paired, and not had a "dial 0" since.

@Glassverd Are you still using the same inept shop?

Best to get an OBD2 scanner connected and read the live data.

I'm not familiar with this model or the wheels, but you should be able to tell if the old and new wheels are hub centric by the snug fit on the hub. https://www.discounttire.com/learn/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric

Welcome. Consider adding your location and Y/M version of your Edge in the signature line. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Thanks. Most of this style jack stands are made in China and sold in the US under many different labels, so I would suggest that anyone using ones that look similar to the Pittsburgh ones, also inspect the welds carefully. I have seen a few with very poor welds and a friend of mine returned his based on poor welds.

From your first post I get the impression that you're not a DIY'er and that the service shop that you've been using are not suitably qualified and experienced, which leads me to question how you would use any technical suggestions that you may get here. Would you convey these suggestions to the same mechanic? The issues that you describe requires diagnostics using a scanner that can display live data and a mechanic or technician that can interpret that data - do you have a dealership or independent service shop near you with this capability?

I ordered mine online, so arrived packaged the same way - a day parked in the summer sun and it settled out nicely. You could lay it out on the driveway in the sun.

Please consider putting that detail in your profile signature. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I used one of these connectors which mate up to most battery tenders. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/?coliid=I2UEK9HVWRX39I&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Try a forum search and you'll find that contrary to the manufacturers suggestion that the PTU is lubricated for life, it certainly does need oil changes. You're at the mileage where you can expect that the oil has degraded to the point where the temperature will rise and start expelling oil. If you haven't yet, get the oil changed and see if things improve, but if not plan for the seal replacement, and while you're at it get a drain plug fitted. If your 60K mile power train warranty is still valid, get Ford to replace the seals.

Another personal preference, I don't buy from an eBay seller that has a few as 6 reviews, been an eBay seller for a short time and return policies like this one.

Personal preference, but I would go OEM for this type of thing. Ford Parts sales sites indicate the part number you posted above has been superseded. https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/ford__/Tail-Light-Assembly/75138811/HT4Z13405G.html

What M/Y? - consider putting that in your profile signature line and save being asked again. Could it be that you're getting too close or approaching too rapidly and the anti-collision is cutting in, but if that's not it, yours is defective. What's your M/Y owners manual say?

What M/Y? - consider putting that in your profile signature line and save being asked again. My 2017 Sport does not behave like that. I always have the follow distance set at 1 bar, and when I put my foot on the gas the distance control deactivates, release the gas and the speed and adaptive/distance control go back to normal.

I don't see problems with the OEM rotors as far as them being "soft", and it would cost you nothing to test that conspiracy by using them until they approaching minimum thickness.

Welcome. The images suggest that some debris got lodged between the pads and rotor causing that scoring, very often happens to folks that frequently use dirt roads. At 18K miles the friction material on the pads must be greater that 60%. Brake parts have a very short warranty period and considered wear and tear items so give it more thought before taking it to the dealership and brace yourself for not getting them covered - you could send the images to the service manager and get his opinion and confirmation on the warranty cover.

Please post a link to this.

Places like AutoZone, if they're still open, will read the codes free of charge. It's possible but unlikely that plugs were installed with the incorrect gap, and the gap would have to be quite large to cause a misfire. Best post the video to YouTube - folks don't like having to download it, but rather watch it online. The noise doesn't sound like the engine internals. You're assuming its the spark plugs, when it could be the Evap solenoid or something like that - that's why the codes are a good starting point for a diagnostic approach.

If there's a sustained condition the light will stay on and a code stored - an intermittent will also store a code.

I suggest getting the stored error codes read.

Tried that, and doesn't work. This evening I tried it a few times with my phone in hand, and it did it dialled 0 each time.

It's been a long while and no recent Sync3 updates, and since yesterday my iPhone XR, which I've had for about a year, has been dialling zero each time I start the car. Will try this and report back.