1004ron

If you do a forum search you'll find many existing threads on this subject. What brand of fans and module did you install?

I've got a fair size stock of Mobil 1 that I buy when Costco runs the specials on the 6 qrt packs, and pleased to see it meets that spec. Not to forget the Mobil 1 mail in rebates that I get every year for the past 5 years. https://www.mobil.com/en-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/gl-xx-mobil-1-5w30

The answer to your question is in this thread and in the post directly above yours !!!!

That bold part doesn't make sense - could be a typo? If it does NOT overheat when at speed and only overheats when stationary or moving slow, then its the cooling fans. The common problem which a forum search will reveal requires the replacement of the fans and their controller, and only the OEM (Motorcraft) part is a reliable replacement. Please add you location and vehicle model/year to your signature. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Yes, taking it to a local mechanic for a diagnosis would be more practical than expecting someone on here could get a feel for what you're describing, and based on that you can decide on taking it to a dealership, but the local mechanics report wont help for warranty claims that could arise down the road.

Isn't it still under warranty? If so, best get it booked in and a job card opened clearly describing the symptoms and concerns, even if they claim nothing wrong, at least you'll have a record if something does go wrong some time later.

Did you mistakenly post this in the wrong thread - I'm not seeing the relevance to this thread, but maybe I'm missing something and you could explain.

I have quick connectors on my three vehicles and connect them to battery tenders if they're going to be parked for more than two weeks. My Harley is on the tender when its not riding season, and when we go on vacation whichever car we don't use for the road trip goes on the tender. Recently when I was tinkering with the Forscan and ignored the warning to start or shut down, I left it on the tender overnight. Some folks wont ever have the need.

There's far more of these engines on the road, and far less reports of oil pan leaks, so a clear indication that they have found a reliable solution, the one you mention above.

Sorry for the late update. I deleted the BT pairing on my phone and Sync 3, re-paired, and not had a "dial 0" since.

@Glassverd Are you still using the same inept shop?

Best to get an OBD2 scanner connected and read the live data.

I'm not familiar with this model or the wheels, but you should be able to tell if the old and new wheels are hub centric by the snug fit on the hub. https://www.discounttire.com/learn/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric

Welcome. Consider adding your location and Y/M version of your Edge in the signature line. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Thanks. Most of this style jack stands are made in China and sold in the US under many different labels, so I would suggest that anyone using ones that look similar to the Pittsburgh ones, also inspect the welds carefully. I have seen a few with very poor welds and a friend of mine returned his based on poor welds.

From your first post I get the impression that you're not a DIY'er and that the service shop that you've been using are not suitably qualified and experienced, which leads me to question how you would use any technical suggestions that you may get here. Would you convey these suggestions to the same mechanic? The issues that you describe requires diagnostics using a scanner that can display live data and a mechanic or technician that can interpret that data - do you have a dealership or independent service shop near you with this capability?

I ordered mine online, so arrived packaged the same way - a day parked in the summer sun and it settled out nicely. You could lay it out on the driveway in the sun.

Please consider putting that detail in your profile signature. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I used one of these connectors which mate up to most battery tenders. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/?coliid=I2UEK9HVWRX39I&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Try a forum search and you'll find that contrary to the manufacturers suggestion that the PTU is lubricated for life, it certainly does need oil changes. You're at the mileage where you can expect that the oil has degraded to the point where the temperature will rise and start expelling oil. If you haven't yet, get the oil changed and see if things improve, but if not plan for the seal replacement, and while you're at it get a drain plug fitted. If your 60K mile power train warranty is still valid, get Ford to replace the seals.

Another personal preference, I don't buy from an eBay seller that has a few as 6 reviews, been an eBay seller for a short time and return policies like this one.

Personal preference, but I would go OEM for this type of thing. Ford Parts sales sites indicate the part number you posted above has been superseded. https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/ford__/Tail-Light-Assembly/75138811/HT4Z13405G.html

What M/Y? - consider putting that in your profile signature line and save being asked again. Could it be that you're getting too close or approaching too rapidly and the anti-collision is cutting in, but if that's not it, yours is defective. What's your M/Y owners manual say?

What M/Y? - consider putting that in your profile signature line and save being asked again. My 2017 Sport does not behave like that. I always have the follow distance set at 1 bar, and when I put my foot on the gas the distance control deactivates, release the gas and the speed and adaptive/distance control go back to normal.

I don't see problems with the OEM rotors as far as them being "soft", and it would cost you nothing to test that conspiracy by using them until they approaching minimum thickness.