1004ron

What response were you getting with those LED's? I ask because I added switchbacks to my wife's Mustang and the dashboard indicator light would do a double beat, even though exterior were working at the correct pace - I disabled the lamp fail detection using Forscan.

That one was also a used lease, but if it did in fact come from the factory like that it would be even more of a mystery. He doesn't report back on what the Dealership eventually did with the light bar, and they could possibly have corrected it. If it was bought new and the owner discovered it and it was in the model's spec. then Ford would have to make it right. BigBerky , how confident are you with electrics and electronics skils, are you 100% sure that its a non-illuminated light bar?

Thanks, Sent my dealership an email request for my factory code. Thank goodness I have alternate wheels for work tomorrow - my wife's away so I can use her Mustang, and its way too cold to use my bike.

Damn, I wanted to set the drivers door code and had difficulty with what I thought was the factory code attached to one of my keys, and that wasn't working so I tried the procedure with both keys in the car, and had difficulty with that also and in the process I got out the car and as I closed the door it locked, ........and now I still cant unlock it with what I thought was the factory code. Will the Dealership be able to help me with the factory code? Looks like I'll be using my wife's car to work tomorrow. The attached photo is all I got from the Dealership - I assumed the code was 10778, would that be correct - if it is, then I'm not using it correctly.

Understood, but resorting to conspiracy theories isn't a good direction to go.

That is highly unlikely - if Ford actually did that, it would make it a "custom" build, which is more costly, even if it was to remove a feature.

Having done a fair amount of hobby electronics I'd assess the function of that Printed Circuit Board and possibly repair it, but with the tightly packed surface mount stuff these days repairs are way more difficult. You could try find a local electronics repair place who might be able to diagnose it for you. You could also post clear photos of both sides of the PC Board and we might be able to tell what its meant to do and offer some advice.

Must have bought the Orange stuff before it became obsolete.

Does this happen only after filling up with gas, or at all times? I ask, because I used to top-off when filling up and it would do that whenever idling for the first 10 miles or so, and with my cheap OBDII device it showed no codes. Recently I bought the OBDLink MX+ and it showed an old stored code related to the evap. I've not had it do this since I stopped topping-off.

Sent an email to robertlane

The connectors for the Third Brake Light and the Light Bar are at the top of the lift-gate near the Third Brake Light. I cant find an electrical schematic, only the attached showing how to access the connectors. Liftgate RI.pdf

I know you've got that in the thread title, but to avoid repeatadly being asked, you could put that detail in your your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

The light bar should work if its a Sport. Please add your location and vehicle model year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I just tried the link in your post above on my phone and laptop and both opened the PDF.

That's the best review site. https://www.headlightrevolution.com/better_lighting_led/low_high_fogs I used these on my motorcycle high beam and very happy with them - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XP1GG13/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The 360 degree ones are reported to produce a more uniform pattern. https://www.amazon.com/Light-Moses-Degree-Headlight-Conversion/dp/B07RRBFYPH/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=led+360+degrees&qid=1611407397&s=automotive&sr=1-1

I would also check the drive axle inner and outer joints for signs of molybdenum grease leakage.

Below is all I would have done - always test a battery with it fully charged.

The Gold is superseded / obsolete.

Click on your profile (top right) then near the top right click "My Activity". - While you're there, how about adding location and Model/Year to your signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Yes, that's what's meant by "not topping off". It would only have a light stumble when idling immediately after filling up and would be gone until the next "over fill". Is yours doing it only with a FULL tank or all the time? Best you get the codes read.

I had never driven a Ford Edge and couldn't do that being abroad at the time of purchase. For me it was styling, specifications, online reviews, and assistance from members here that helped me with my decision. I bought my 2017 Sport, sight unseen, using internet and email with the dealership and on my return to the US on 9 March 2017 they picked me up from the airport and from there to the dealership and took delivery of my Sport, and I'm still happy with every aspect of my purchase.

With it off you'll see the timing sprocket behind it, and it is keyed. This model, unlike some Fords, the crank position tone wheel isn't part of the harmonic balancer.

Its not keyed, so no orientation/alignment, but it cant be heated to make it easier to go on the crank (rubber), and cant be beaten on, so you'll need a special installation "puller" or if the main bolt is long enough you could pull it up with that.

I've seen that one - it doesn't cover the install, but it does show that the harmonic balancer on this model isn't keyed.

Not sure if you tried the forum search feature. Note the comment about not hammering the balancer back on - it will damage the crank thrust bearings.