1004ron

Best of luck and Ford Corp. will most often rely on the dealerships assessment, but not always. If Ford Corp. see the comment in the dust in the paint, it is unlikely that they'll authorize any work because as you state, that did not happen in the factory and Corp. will leave it to you and the selling dealership to fight out. Is it the selling dealership that you're dealing with now?

""How to carry keyless entry LARGE fob." - The one on the left in that photo, .......I carry with me in my right pants pocket - having difficulty understanding how or why that would be such a tough decision.

Welcome. The 2.0 ecoboost does have a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Please consider adding your location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Welcome. Please consider adding location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

It uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor instead of a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. What's behind your thoughts that the MAF needs cleaning? - if it had one, it's best left alone seeing as the air that passes through it is clean/filtered. The MAP can get fouled by the oil and crud from the PCV, which a catch can can help avoid. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2015,f-150,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3308772,fuel+&+air,manifold+pressure+(map)+sensor,11207

Does that mean yours is also hissing after you replaced the booster and master cylinder? I doubt that you'll get a reply from the OP, his one and only post was back in January 2018.

Personal opinion, the paint failures seen in that article are very different to what we see in this thread.

Looking at the photos, I'm not surprised that warranty was refused - there's no way that it a latent factory defect. If an internet search revealed a few other owners with the same problem it could swing it just a little in your favor. If it were me, I'd install surveillance cameras. This photo looks to me like a chemical attack, and much like brake fluid does.

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It's hard to tell from the photos and description, but could this be vandalism, a brake fluid or other substance? The dealership and Ford Corp. must have offered a reason for rejecting warranty - what was that reason?

I've never given other NAV option a try - maybe time I do a little research and experiment.

Almost a year later and NA 1 19 is released. Think I'll skip this one and save the $109

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Please consider adding your location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I sure hope that you kept the original alternator. Many of the Auto shops do have the correct test equipment for CCA. If the battery tests good your current problem looks more like a bad reman alternator, but you should also do a search on how to perform a parasitic draw test - if your car stands for more than a couple of weeks you should look at getting a battery tender.

Not sure how to answer that?

Who did you buy it from? You say that at the time of purchase you noticed the condensation and the seller said that they would not fix it - that was the time to stand your ground and insist it be fixed, or walk away. You say you did some research - did that research include this forum? What method did you attempt to remove the moisture? It's still under warranty so call Ford Corp. and open a warranty claim with them, or try another dealership. The light bar not lighting up - not all the models do, what model do you have?

Puzzled why you replaced the battery and alternator when all tests indicated they were good, and now have a suspect reman alternator. A thorough check of all connections and grounding straps is a good idea. A friendly tip, when asking for assistance like this mention everything you've done and tried and the results up front.

Did you forget to mention the new battery? Did you install a new alternator or a "remanufactured" one - I ask because they are notoriously unreliable. Just changing parts out without any diagnostics might have cost you a few $'s unnecessary. Most places like Autozone will load test the battery and the alternator in the car. If you have a digital multimeter we could walk you through a few diagnostic tests.

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You're right, impact sockets are a lot beefier. I've watched the tech's at my dealership use the pneumatic impact tool and when the lug nut comes off the thread the nut and socket smack the wheels, and my wheels have the scars to show. I first encountered the Ford lug nuts with the soft aluminium outer layer when I took my wife's Mustang in for new tires - I had to purchase a set of lug nuts from the fitment shop. Ford supplied a full set of the same type of lug nuts when I found that the dealership had damaged them - because the nuts "swell" the dealership use a 22mm socket which makes it worse for the owner when they attempt to use the standard 21mm socket or the emergency wrench in the trunk. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a15339991/swollen-lug-nuts-are-costing-ford-drivers-time-and-money-lawsuit-claims/

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Yes, permanently logged in.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XMDSJC/?coliid=I1ZARASLP4FJ20&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it I like them and believe they'll be of benefit to those that spin the nuts completely off with an impact wrench - I haven't bought one yet because so infrequently take my wheels off and do it by hand.

I wouldn't focus on oil pressure light coming on when the engine cut out while the ignition was still one. When you tried the jumpers, did it crank? What engine? Don't think anyone here would be able to offer any pointers without doing some diagnostics, or if you could have got the stored error codes, which won't be possible with it on its way to the dealership. Please consider adding your location and vehicle model/year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/