1004ron

Blend and 7K miles with a turbo charged engine wouldn't be the best if long term ownership is planned.

Blend or Full Synthetic?

Welcome. What you describe falls in the category of Latent Defect, and should have been addressed with Ford Corp. Could you share the details of the missing weld location and component? How was this repaired and by who - if it's a structural weld, which it sounds like it was, then there'd be special weld procedures involved.

This might have been self inflicted - 2000 miles ago I did the trans drain & fill multiple times. This evening I got it up to temperature and found the level on the high side - I used my oil extractor and took a little over half a quart to get it down to the midway point between MIN & MAX. Will do the PTU fluid again with the engine oil change in 5K miles.

I always got the rebates for Mobil, but I see that Amazon.com isn't included for Pennzoil rebates. I get 2% cash back with my Citi card - explain your math for getting "essential free oil".

I've been using Mobil 1 on all my vehicles and usually buy it at around $33 for a pack of 6 qrts when on special at Costco. Don't have any issues with Mobil 1 but with the great price for Pennzoil on Amazon and the abundance of good reviews I'm making the change - still got a fair amount of Mobil 1 in my garage. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (5-Quart, Case of 3) $61.64

Thanks @Haz It confirmed my suspicion that I have transmission fluid leakage into the PTU, and I have a BIG DIY job I need to plan for. Wondering if a good used replacement PTU is an easier option vs buying more special tools to replace the seals and bushes etc. Edit: On second thoughts, no I won't be looking at a used unit, unless factory rebuilt units are available - I would welcome any pointers on best place to buy a new PTU and if there's an upgraded later model available that would work on my 2017. Ford F2GZ-7251-C Power Take Off Assembly - $797.44 I'll be making a final decision in about 4 months/5K miles.

Waiting for @Haz to stop by and confirm if a leakage path exists from the transmission to PTU. @omar302 the previous two PTU fluid changes were Amsoil so not possible leftover from the Royal Purple. I'll do another PTU fluid change in 5K miles with the car on four ramps (level) and report back on any sign of overfilling.

Many reports on here and my own experience shows that the standard OBDII scanners are not reliable in reading these Ford's stored fault codes. Anyway, if it was a bad crank position sensor you'd expect the OBDII scanner would detect that.

What did you use to scan it? Whoever suggested the crank position sensor is making wild guesses and following their advice will inevitably cost you dearly. The crank position sensor is needed for it to run on starter fluid.

Welcome. I would start with scanning for stored fault codes - if you don't have a scanner you could loan one from Autozone. If you have one and it's not Forscan Lite etc. then consider getting a good OBDII device and get the free Forscan Lite app.

Did my 1004,500 mile engine, PTU and RDU oil change today. Found something concerning with my PTU oil change. When I pulled the fill plug and steady stream of oil came out suggested it was over-filled, and it had a pink/red tinge to it. Of course my first thoughts was that I have transmission fluid leaking into the PTU, but don't know if that's possible with the mechanical arrangement - maybe @Haz can shed some light on this theory? I'm using Amsoil severe gear oil which is a virtually clear fluid. Previous fill I did with only the two front wheels on ramps, whereas this time I have all four up on ramps but doubt that could cause the over-filling. Edit: Pulled the air-box and checked transmission fluid with it warm and no indication that the level has dropped although the little overfill of the PTU is unlikely it would be seen on the dipstick.

It's widely reported on here that cheaper devices aren't reliable, and my experience - best you use a good OBDII dongle with FORscan Lite (free) on your phone.

What are you using to scan for codes?

@Admin @robertlane @Edge Guide please update subsection for later models. Needs: 2021 - current Edge & Nautilus

I got the same LED's you have - I read Amazon reviews that said the new version wasn't as bright. These are most certainly much brighter than the incandescent ones. They worked the same as the originals as far as they were dimmer with parks ON and switched between Dim and Bright with the turn signal ON. I still did the same Forscan change because its more distinct/eye catching when it switches between OFF & ON.

Welcome. What Model & Year do you have ? - please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

What Model & Year ? - please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Throwing parts at it is always more costly the following a diagnostic approach. You don't provide much info as to the current status. 1) Is it cranking but not starting, or is it running with fault codes? 2) What fault codes have been reported and what device/app are you using to scan for codes. 3) What's the "chts code" ?

Not being familiar with this 2008 model, but I expected them to have a filter on that age of vehicle, and a screen of that type at the intake just forward of the windshield. I see its an option to use the screen or filter.

"Cleaned the cabin air filter" - if it were me I'd be replacing it, and continue the search from there. Measure the voltage at the blower - could be the speed regulator isn't supply full voltage.

There's a good deal of things that could cause what you describe, which could be pre-ignition and that doesn't take long to destroy an engine. Fuel grade/octane and carbon buildup etc. could cause it. Check for stored fault codes - yes there could be codes without the CEL.

You will need a suitably qualified auto-elec tech to diagnose, but before that I would confirm if the parts are OEM.

Welcome. What brand of radiator fan and fan controller is installed? Browse the forum and you'll find that the only reliable replacement for these components is OEM. This is most likely causing the AC issue as well.

Thanks @omar302 I had those ones in my Amazon basket, but might change that to the updated model.