1004ron

With it being a 2012 its obviously no longer under warranty and any repairs/upgrades will be paid out of your pocket - if it was under warranty I'd be more inclined to allow the Dealership to have at it seeing as it would be coming out of their pockets, including any failed experiments. To me it sounds like they're treating the symptoms and not the cause - if it was me, I'd take it to another Dealership. "also my fan has been redirected to work directly once I start my my engine" - that stinks of "shade tree mechanic"

@handfiler hit the nail on the head. Good to hear that you got it sorted and shame on Team RXP.

Yes, I don't like the idea of using the 18" emergency spare, and taking another look at it this evening I decided that I'm going to keep one of those Puncture Plug kits, and a small 12v compressor that I already have, in the ample space in the area where the existing spare is kept. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MR5FX8M/?coliid=I28AFU02Y7FK60&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

There I was all these years assuming that I had a 21" spare wheel in the trunk, and as others have pointed out its an 18". The OD is significantly smaller than the 21" wheels, so if I was to use it I'll limit the speed and distance to avoid damage to the differential.

For the button that you want to disable, you could cut the printed circuit board track and if it doesn't work out good just join it with solder.

Now you've got me doubting myself and will need to confirm and take a photo when I get home. It's been many months since I checked the pressure on it and found it way under inflated. Mine is the same as the one seen in the below thread - I'll confirm actual size later today.

My 2017 Sport has a 21" emergency spare and my front rotors are 345mm. What's behind the suggestion to go with an 18"?

My wife's Mustang has a small compressor with liquid puncture sealant in place of a spare. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Fusion-Hybrid-Mobility-2016-2017/dp/B074XMN21M/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=ford+tire+mobility+kit&qid=1609373851&sr=8-2

I'm not familiar with this procedure, but expect that it will need a battery charger/tender that has charging rate greater than the current draw with the ignition ON.

When you have a failed start, does the starter actually crank the engine or not?

What the OP has written isn't very clear to me, but the comment that the starter engages could suggest that the FOB is good?? Don't know if it cranks and doesn't fire or what the real status is.

@lildisco came up with a thread that has some useful suggestions to try.

Not doubting that you have a problem with your headlights, but I've not seen many reports here. I'm not sure if your 2017 Titanium has the HID's like my 2017 Sport, but can assure you that both my high and low beams are quite acceptable. Retrofit LED's aren't usually good in housings that weren't designed for that. If you don't have HID's you could try that, although quite pricey to upgrade.

You need to have it fully charged using something like a Battery Tender and then check the CCA, and bear in mind that the ambient will also effect it.

The forum search function doesn't always work too well, but give it a try.

Welcome to the forum. Please consider adding your location and vehicle model/year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

The Motorcraft SP-542 plug was superseded by SP-578, and its quite possible that the SP-537 was also superseded, but best contact your dealership or wait to see if someone else here can confirm. Welcome to the forum - pleas consider adding location and model/year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Back in 2016 the above from @macbwt was the best advice you could receive, and I notice that your didn't respond to that, other than clicking the "ha ha" button.

Bought the car in 2015 with the CEL on, which indicates the previous owner neglected to service it, and then you decided not to service it from that time until now - WOW.

@CivicSi907 Not smart to post the same subject to two threads - now merged with the first thread you started back in 2016.

43,500 miles which is low for a 5 year old, but way past due on both mileage and time, both impacting on the oil life to different degrees. With that neglect Its to be expected that the camshaft Variable Valve Controls would be totally fouled up causing the reported error code.

I gathered that you were not proficient in English and have no issue with that. So, have you done 5,000 miles in the 5 years its not been serviced, or have you done 300,000 miles in 5 years without a service? Clearly the engine has suffered due to lack of maintenance, but how badly none of us can tell, so again, best find a qualified mechanic that can assess the engine and decide the next steps such as an oil flush and frequent oil and oil filter changes. Please add location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Not sure what your expectations are here - you chose not to respond to that question when I asked it earlier. The reason behind that question was to ascertain if this could be a case of maintenance neglect, which results in sludge, and sludge doesn't work well with any engine and particularly the Variable Valve Timing controls. Any qualified mechanic will have the skills to assess and diagnose this type of problem.

My personal preference is always a diagnostic approach which in your previous response indicated to me that's not your preferred path, so I have no response to that last question.

That oil meets the minimum requirement - most people here prefer to run full synthetic oil. Does your owners manual call for 5W-20 or 5W-30 ?