1004ron

If the jump-start pack gets it going, then your new battery is bad or you have a parasitic draw, so best get the battery load tested and do a parasitic test.

Thanks. No discernible difference, but that can be expected considering the original plugs were still very good. Bear in mind that I baby the car, never once been above 5K RPM. I installed the NGK's at 62,300 miles and I'm at 79,500 miles and still going like it did when I took delivery of it in March 2017. I bought my Edge while I was abroad, never sat in an Edge let alone test drive one, and the dealership's courtesy driver picked my wife and I up at the airport with all our baggage. I was familiar with the dealership because I had the company car serviced there for a few years.

Sorry to hear that. Please describe what you've checked so far and the results. Have you considered any of the advice already posted in this thread? What Model Edge? - please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Did you do the throttle body calibration? 2011 Ford Edge PCM reset and throttle body relearn after reset - YouTube Ford Vehicles: Electronic Throttle Body Calibration Procedure - YouTube

If you're not electrical inclined, I suggest you look for an independent Auto-Elec shop.

I don't use a torque wrench on spark plugs, but would advise following the tightening instructions on the NGK packaging, which is specific the the plug and its seal arrangement. The top image is for the NGK 95605 Ruthenium HX plugs

You could try PM him - he hasn't been around here for quite some time. Have you considered the recommendation in the post directly above yours?

PM @Haz and ask if he can help with diagrams.

2017 Sport. In about two to three months I'll be installing new tires for the second time in my ownership and was wondering what life folks have been getting from their TPM Sensors, so that I can decide on installing new ones now at just over five years, or take a chance until the next tire change which would have the original sensors at 7.5 yo. TPMS typically last 7 to 10 years. Also, what make and model sensors are installed in my 2017 Sport?

Maybe @Haz could help with wiring schematics to assist with the fault finding.

My 2017 Sport might be different, but it needs the transmission to be in Drive for those to come on.

No video, but you'll find a few pointers in the below thread.

The shinny outer shell is aluminum, and the dealerships use a pneumatic impact wrench to remove and install the lug nuts, which distorts and stretches the aluminum. My dealership using this method also chipped my wheels - as the lug nuts come off the sockets swings around a hammers the wheels. When I confronted the dealership about the swollen lug nuts and damage to my wheels, he responded that they use torque sticks - well that only helps not to over torque the nuts, the impact action still destroys the soft aluminum shell. He ordered a full set at no cost to me. BTW, there is existing threads on this topic.

This could be a latent defect - quite possibly related to the glass annealing process. Annealing (glass) - Wikipedia If no warranty cover wouldn't the insurance cover this?

Motorcraft SP-542 plug superseded by SP-578? - New Plug Installation DIY - 2.7L EcoBoost - Ford Edge Forum Spark Plugs (When to change) - 3.5L - Ford Edge Forum

It sounds like the evap valve has failed open and allowing raw gas to to be drawn into the engine, and its poisoning the CAT, and the code is a result. That is a whole lot cheaper fix than injectors. Until you get it fixed, don't fill up above 3/4. It appears that you've been using unqualified mechanics who've cost you more than needed - if you can't DIY, you will be better off searching for a reputable independent shop or go to the dealership.

I'm not familiar with this model, but would be surprised if a 2019 uses an MAF, more likely an MAP.

Exactly. If the creator of that video is in fact a qualified/certified mechanic, shame on him for attempting to deceive the public.

I call BS, and it does not match my experience and the general consensus on this forum.

I have a 2017 2.7L 6 speed and its smooooth. Not sure if its the same transmission as the 2.0L

The cheap generic devices may work with Forscan, but they typically don't read all Ford codes, as was my experience mentioned above. I've read mixed reports on resetting the BMS using headlight and brakes - Forscan is all I consider for that.

Rabbitslayer reading the codes is the best first step in diagnostics, but learn from my lesson when buying an OBD2 device. I suspected that I had a stored evap code, but it didn't show up with the cheap OBD2 device I had, then I bought the OBDLink MX+ and it downloads Ford specific data, and it found that I did have a pending evap code. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFRFJG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You could also get it read free of charge at a place like Autozone, although I have read reports that their readers don't always find existing codes. I see a few folks recommended that you reset the BMS, but you never responded to them.

That is a symptom of a bad evap valve. What did you use to read the stored/pending error codes? - the first OBDII device I used did not show any codes, then when I got the OBDLink MX it showed an evap pending code.

When was the service done? How often to you check your oil level? Not likely that the oil cap will resolve the P144a code.

What rotors are you using? What model/year Edge? Please add your M/Y and location to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/