1004ron

Yes, and who knows what criteria they use for testing. You're better off having an auto-elec shop rebuild your original one, or get a good identical one from a wreckers yard, or a new OEM alternator. Try a search for radiator cooling fan assemblies - its known here that all third-party fan controllers don't work, reasons unknown.

On this forum and another one I frequent there's been reports such as yours with rebuilt alternators, and without doing any diagnostics, the alternator would be my guess as to what's wrong. Here's one of many examples: https://www.kia-forums.com/threads/2005-kia-sedona-lx-multiple-alternators-and-batteries-replaced.221729/#post-1308481

Welcome. When you say "new" alternator, was it a reconditioned one, and where did you buy it? Do you have a multimeter do do a few checks that we could suggest?

I think you'll find the other brands have very similar warranties, and most often don't cover anything when that expires.

I've broken one of these clips and got a replacement from www.oreillyauto.com They don't always have these on the shelf, but they got it in the same day for me - Just let them know the size and they'll order. Dorman OE Solutions Fuel Line Retaining Clip, New Style, Black | 9696916 | Pep Boys 3/8 In. Fuel Line Retaining Clips 800-004: Advance Auto Parts Amazon.com: Dorman 800-041 Universal Fuel Line Retainer - 5/8 In. Compatible with Select Models, 2 Pack : Automotive

Don't quote me, but I think the inertia switch cuts the fuel pump.

You posted in the "2.0L EcoBoost" section. So what model and year do you have. What are the issues you're having and what have you looked at?

See TSB 22-2133 https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/30783-tsb-22-2229-2015-2018-edge-other-models-20l-ecoboost-coolant-in-cylinders-white-exhaust-smoke-andor-illuminated-mil/?tab=comments#comment-226589

I would verify the valve timing.

Do you still have the symptoms "Car struggles to start after I've refueled it. " ? Hopefully @Haz can assist with that. My dealerships service manager told me the most often the evap valve is the cure, but they have also found the same code to be a problem with the canister in the rear. Once you have it resolved, to avoid this happening again never top-off your tank - stop the first time the pump shuts off.

If the light is staying on, then no point in clearing codes - check the codes and if its still the same evap code then you have other issues with the evap system, like the canister in the rear.

Some used car sales places add a remote cut-out which they trigger if a loan payment is missed - you might not have a loan on them, but the devices were left in the cars and somehow a signal went out to disable both vehicles.

@Haz How expensive is this type of service manual, and is it available to the general public? I've got a DVD service manual for my BMW motorcycle and it's the type of quality that you often post here, search feature and hyperlinks etc. - I'd love to buy something like that for my Edge and my wife's Mustang.

I need to correct my predictions. The original P-Zero lasted 50K miles. I'm now at 82K miles and will need to replace the Atturo's at 85K miles, so only 35K miles on them vs 50K miles on the P-Zero. The only negative things I have to report on the Atturo is the flats it gets when parked for a day or two, which is much worse in cold weather, and only 70% life of the P-Zero. I'm contemplating going with the P-Zero again, but welcome suggestions. Costco have the Bridgestone - ALENZA AS ULTRA on special until late July - any reviews on these tires?

What about the suggestion directly above your post? - disconnecting the sensor.

Update: On 9 June I lifted all the relays in the engine compartment fuse box and reseated them and since then its never misbehaved. Speculation, but maybe a little oxidation on one of the terminals related to the data bus ? Fingers crossed that its resolved. I bought a hard copy wiring diagram service manual, not as nice as the color schematics @Haz posts, but it should help if I need to do any fault finding in the future.

Rick P I sold it some time back on Craigslist.

@bhamraS97 I'm not keen on using self-tapping screws - not sure if the screws would go through the floor pan, and the risk of corrosion where it damages the metal coatings.

Thanks @omar302 Its odd that they now label them as "assembly aid fasteners" after previously making kits available with gaskets. I'm keen to see how it goes with those that remove these fasteners leaving large holes, and possibly droop in the middle of the shield.

if I got back into it I'd remove the covers, re-install the plastic parts/posts with sealant on the part that clips into the bodywork, and then use a high density foam rubber on the attachment of the cover to the plastic posts.

Tried it on my 2017 Sport and it worked - hadn't done that before.

Iridium, Platinum, or what I'm using now Ruthenium, aren't expected to offer performance gains, but longevity. IIRC the stock plugs in many of the later models is Iridium. Please add you M/Y to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Wonder if my friend should go and see them for compensation?

Always parked inside my attached garage, unless its at work in the open parking lot. This morning it started without a problem, so can't do any further diagnostics until it occurs again.

For the seat cooling, try a forum search and you'll find the "fixes" some have used, with mixed results.