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@bhamraS97 I'm not keen on using self-tapping screws - not sure if the screws would go through the floor pan, and the risk of corrosion where it damages the metal coatings.

Thanks @omar302 Its odd that they now label them as "assembly aid fasteners" after previously making kits available with gaskets. I'm keen to see how it goes with those that remove these fasteners leaving large holes, and possibly droop in the middle of the shield.

if I got back into it I'd remove the covers, re-install the plastic parts/posts with sealant on the part that clips into the bodywork, and then use a high density foam rubber on the attachment of the cover to the plastic posts.

Tried it on my 2017 Sport and it worked - hadn't done that before.

Iridium, Platinum, or what I'm using now Ruthenium, aren't expected to offer performance gains, but longevity. IIRC the stock plugs in many of the later models is Iridium. Please add you M/Y to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Wonder if my friend should go and see them for compensation?

Always parked inside my attached garage, unless its at work in the open parking lot. This morning it started without a problem, so can't do any further diagnostics until it occurs again.

For the seat cooling, try a forum search and you'll find the "fixes" some have used, with mixed results.

Thanks @omar302 I checked and confirmed the OBDLink app has the enhanced OEM Add-Ons and while I was checking for that I updated the device firmware, and still no codes presented. I then used Forscan Lite and it showed loads of communication fault codes - see attached text file. Won't trust the OBDLink app for this again. Soon after starting the engine the charging voltage was around 14.5v and after a while it settled at 13.6v - not sure what's going on with that, but will use the OBDLink dashboard to monitor on the way home. DTC_2022-06-08_110115.txt Info_2022-06-08_105957.txt

It happened again this morning. Using Forscan is a good idea, but didn't have time to get out my Windows laptop, renew the license and hook it up - I'll do that when I get home later today and have it ready if it fails to start tomorrow (not going to work tomorrow, so will have time for more interrogation). I hooked up my OBDLink MX+ but the OBDLink app wouldn't connect, even though the iPhone's bluetooth showed connected. I then disconnected the battery, and while disconnected ran my tester again and it showed good health. Reconnected and it started up normally - good crank speed and quick ignition - thereafter the OBDLink app did connect and showed no errors, which can be expected as they would have been cleared with the battery disconnected, but odd that it couldn't communicate with the vehicle earlier. Warning notices displayed in the left of the dashboard: Steering Assist Fault Service Required LOW Engine Oil Pressure Engine Coolant Over Temperature Blindspot System Fault - OFF Cross Traffic System Fault AWD Malfunction Service Required See Manual Odd thing is the mileage showed _ _ _ _ _ _ _ It could be an intermittent fault in the relatively new battery, or an electrical connection on the vehicle - not always the easiest to diagnose, but I'll keep at it with the help offered here, thanks. When I arrived at work, a little late, I tried starting with the gear selector NOT in P or N, and of course it doesn't start, and doesn't light-up all the errors.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. When I got home I connected my battery tester and it shows the same health as it did when I bought it from Costco in November 2021. When I installed the new battery I replaced the negative connector and added the felt pads on the terminals. Both terminals clean and secure. Started a few times today with no sign of any issues.

This morning was the first and only fault ever encountered in my 5+ years of ownership. Got in, foot on brake, in park, and hit the start/Ign button, all dashboard lights came on and the left side of the dashboard scrolled just about every warning, but no crank. Battery is less than a year old, and voltage measured at 12.5v Removed + terminal for a few seconds, put it back and still the same failed to crank. Replaced the batteries in both key fobs, and tried one of the fobs in the center console in the location used when the fob battery is low, and still same no crank. Pulled the battery terminal for about 3 minutes, reconnected and it cranked at usual speed and started. Drove 38 miles to work, parked, tried again and its started perfectly. Google search came up with loads, but most were gibberish. Anyone encountered this - any suggestions on what to check.

All 4 on your vehicle would obviously have been subjected to the same, whatever that may be, prior to your ownership. If Ford's wheel painting was a systemic issue, there would be more complaints on the forum than this single thread, so maybe @2FAST4U and @onyxbfly have something to support their assertions.

What makes you so sure that Ford didn't do a good job?

I have the same wheels on my 2017 Sport and no such degradation. My thoughts are that the previous owner used one of those aggressive wheel cleaners and didn't read the warning not to leave it on too long.

I got tired of the growl and vibration of the StopTech drilled & slotted rotors, so yesterday I installed Centric Hi-Carbon rotors and Centric PQ ceramic pads, and so far very pleased with the results. They come with a black coating on the outside - I painted both sides and the edge with high temp caliper paint. Bought from RockAuto Rotors $95 each Pad set $50 CENTRIC 12561120 {125.61120, 125-61120} (High Carbon) High Carbon Alloy Front; 345mm Front Disc https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/centric,12561120,rotor,1896 CENTRIC 50018180 {500.18180, 500-18180} (Premium) PQ PRO Front https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/centric,50018180,brake+pad,1684

Have you checked the cabin air filter?

Either that "guy at Ford" was blowing smoke up your rear, or you didn't understand what he said. Is it a manual transmission - if not, there's no engine brake involved at all. Its more likely that your experience with the use of the parking brake has more to do with maintenance, the lack of. is it good practice to use the parking brake automatic transmission - Google Search

Nothing is impossible but .... Would need an electrical/electronics wizard to install the SHO's ECU and TCU.

https://www.google.com/search?q=www.fordedgeforum.com+sync+upgrade&source=hp&ei=GE2RYtrRK4upuvQPj4W8wAw&iflsig=AJiK0e8AAAAAYpFbKFkokOe8K36hNFx_IldTLQ8zu-BD&ved=0ahUKEwjavZn12YD4AhWLlI4IHY8CD8gQ4dUDCAg&uact=5&oq=www.fordedgeforum.com+sync+upgrade&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAM6BAgAEB46BQgAEIYDOgUIIRCgAToFCCEQqwJQAFi9QWCjRmgAcAB4AIABtAGIAfgLkgEDNy43mAEAoAECoAEB&sclient=gws-wiz PM me and I'll give the contact number of a supplier of everything in a kit, and prompt support.

Is it cranking at normal speed? Does it start promptly, idle good, and rev normally? If the answer those questions is YES, then measure the charging voltage with it running, and if that's where it needs to be, then you start the next diagnostic step. Start with the simple things, check all fuses with a multimeter (not visual), all grounding and power connections, ..... " battery tested good" - that doesn't tell us much - what was the measured CCA compared to what's on the label, the voltage drop when cranking, charging voltage, and ripple - these are all test results that my tester presents, and expect the shop should have the same or better. 2019 at 44K miles - IIRC the bumper to bumper warranty ended at 36K miles - you could still approach the selling dealership and request good will, or do you have any extended warranty?

This forum search feature doesn't work for me, so use Google. There's a few posts on the forum reporting that the non-OEM fan assemblies don't work. radiator fan troubleshooting - 3.5L - Ford Edge Forum Radiator Fan Issue - 2012 Edge & MKX - Ford Edge Forum

It is expected that Ford, or any manufacturer, provide a torque value for everything, but I'll stick with bottoming out the filter housing and that's where I stop, and leave the double O-rings to do the sealing. My speculation is that the filter assy is assembled dry in the factory and and they apply torque after it bottoms out, and that causes the plastic threads to lock up - it Fords problem, have them fix it.

It might be best to have the dealership remove it, seeing as the factory over-tightened it - they damage it, they replace it. It should just be bottomed out, no torque applied, seeing as it relies solely on the double O-rings to seal. Is that a six sided 27mm socket?

I used the resource found in the below thread: You should contact Cyanlabs for their advice on which files to download. https://cyanlabs.net/applications/syn3-updater/