1004ron

Some countries check the engine number stamped on the block to verify that its the original, not a replacement, and not listed as stolen - I'm guessing this what the igna needs is for.

I'm not familiar with your model, but the engine number is typically stamped on the engine block near the top just below the cylinder head - use a flashlight and search for yours. The registration office needs it to confirm that the engine is original.

That guy waffles - does he have a point, if so what is it?

Slow down and take just a little time to read this thread - the questions you're asking have already been covered.

Forget about the sealant rabbit hole - its already been stated here that's not a cure for the issue discussed in this thread.

Because it is only a recommendation by Ford, not a specification, there may be some gain using the higher octane, but using lower octane will not damage the engine and will not be a factor in any possible warranty claim. This model engines manufacturing defect is totally unrelated to the fuel used.

Recommended is very different to "specifies" - main reason being that using anything less than the recommended cannot be a factor when deciding a warranty claim.

A bad alternator will not prevent a START as long as the battery has sufficient charge.

Where did you read that?

My work associate had his replaced by a good indy shop, who bought the new long block from Ford and it came to around $4,500 for the whole job, with no help from Ford. I suggest that we merge this with the existing thread on the issue.

I can't explain the part numbers, but can confirm the new part is working - I've only filled up once and no spluttering at idle, and just scanned it and confirm no codes. It had got progressively worse and would skip a beat when idling whenever the tank was above 3/4. If I ever need this part again, I'll buy only the Bosch valve.

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I've traveled through Indiana a few times, but have seen more of those buggy's in Pennsylvanian, but never at a Coffee or fast-food drive through.

@enigma-2 ours isn't similar to that. The grill badge and camera are directly in front of the latch and it cannot be seen even using a flashlight. The attached photos will give you an idea where to prod with a long screwdriver - I was able to get it open, but had the benefit of seeing the exact location of the latch. One of those inspection cameras would help a lot.

If the charge warning is coming on when the AC compressor is on, then check the aux belt tension.

If the jump start battery is good and the jumper cables good and well connected to the cars battery connectors, then you need to look for a bad connection, Batt-Neg to chassis, Chassis to Engine, Batt-Pos to main fuse box and to the starter main terminal.

Yesterday the service manager told me that the most common cause of this code is the evap valve that I replaced, but they have seen it caused by a faulty device near the gas tank (forget what he called it).

Found out that my Ford Premium Care has a $100 deductible, so bought a new replacement, installed and cleared the codes. I'll be gassing up late tomorrow after work and will see if I still have the hesitation at idle immediately after filling up.

@ClemsonEE welcome and appreciate the feedback - one of the best 1st posts I've seen.

I'm not familiar with your model so cant help locate the drain, but are you referring to the air conditioner evaporator drain? - just puzzled by the title "coolant" ......

What do you mean by that ? - a wheel bearing going bad you might feel when rotating it, but can't understand how you moved it up and down. A wheel bearing would need to be very bad for it to cause a dropout of signal from the ABS sensor. It the shocks are bad and the wheel not well balanced it could be skipping and the sensor missing a beat.

What model / engine? - please add that to your signature - Settings - Ford Edge Forum

The typical method is to fill it, record the odometer, ride a reasonable distance fill it again recording the mileage and amount of gas it took to fill - come on, I'm sure you know how that's done.

Is it a gauge accuracy issue, or have you checked the actual mpg?