1004ron

My 2017 has the steering heater icon on the home screen. I'd expect your M/Y would have the same.

Perblue - "it induces a voltage of 150 to 350 volts" - isn't there a zero missing? Edit/correction: that would be the induced voltage on the primary.

Not having DIY skills is nothing to be ashamed of, but you should really consider paying a more reputable independent service shop, or the Ford Dealership. This unqualified places could have cost you a new engine.

What code reader are you using? I ask because I had a generic cheap OBDII device and it showed no codes when I had and evap valve problem, then when I got a more expensive OBDLink MX+ it revealed the code.

Very poor diagnostics taking so long to find a bent wheel - I wouldn't use any of them again. I also found it weird, and still do. Are you the only driver of this vehicle? - any novice drivers that hit a curb? The wheel needs a significant impact to bend.

I cant comment because I haven't seen the images - if you post them direct to the forum I'd take a look.

With your confirmation that its a Cleveland engine makes it more likely your engine has the coolant intrusion. At least now you are well informed prior contacting Ford - use all the info on hand and stress to them that its a Latent defect and you expect an engine replacement at no cost to you. A work associate/friend is the second owner of one of these, and Ford would not commit to any assistance until they'd opened the engine to diagnose, so he didn't want to risk them declining so he bought a new engine from Ford and had an independent shop install. You didn't respond to the previous question if you had an extended warranty - anyway, the extended warranty has first amount payable by you, which you should reject in this case.

With the engine off and cooling down, the coolant which is still under some pressure makes its way into the combustion chambers, and then when its started takes some time to displace that coolant - this theory could explain what you describe, but that is speculation, which is also what the couple of mechanics were doing. Before spending money on spark plugs or coils, I'd follow WWWPerfA_ZN0W advice to check your engines place of manufacture - also pulling all plugs and visually inspecting them will also reveal if there's coolant intrusion.

Wonder if Zamboni got the damage repaired and the insurance covered it?

I suggest that you do a search for an independent service shop in your area that has good online reviews, or take it to a dealership. On start up, in Park, and standing still you say its loud - have someone start it while you listen to the engine with the hood open - post a video clip of the noise and vibration. Is it the engine vibrating, or the whole vehicle?

What mechanic is this, qualified, independent service shop, dealership, ......? Your description isn't clear, so doubt anyone here will be able to diagnose it.

If you bought it from a reputable source, they should be able to assist with vehicle specific queries.

I painted all the electroplated parts on my rotors with silver caliper paint and they still look like new after about a year. Amazon.com: POR-15 Silver Caliper Paint - 8 fl. oz. - Superior Heat Resistant Coating : Automotive

JonThunderbolt who did you buy the conversion harness from? - they should be able to confirm that its suitable for your model, and where the old APIM is located.

The APIM is the aluminum part that attaches to the back of the 8" screen. Amazon.com: SYNC 2 to SYNC 3 Upgrade Kits for Ford Edge, Wireless Carplay SYNC 3.4 Interface Module 8-Inch Capacitive Touch Screen APIM Module, GPS Navigation : Electronics Post a photo of your new screen with the APIM. 4D Tech | Ford Upgrades, Replacements & Accessories

That's the same as the one I bought in March 2017, so the salesman didn't lie, because it is in fact the "updated' version, updated late 2016 early 2017.

Give the forum search a try, I'm sure you'll find a few threads explaining how to do this using Forscan.

Have you tried a forum search?

Where do you suspect the ferrous metal comes from that's collected by the magnet? Would the below review convince you to purchase?

Yes, and the latest version must have come out prior to March 2017 when I bought mine, because its not the same as the one in that video.

Picture link isn't working - cant you load it direct to the forum? Edit: I'd say that you don't have an updated version, because it probably doesn't exist - that is the same as the one I bought early 2017.

If you post picture we may be able confirm.

When you do get a chance to read the multitude of reports here you'll note that most folks don't have an issue with the original plug and continue re-using them. I don't see any benefit of a third party plug when my original plug is still working as good as new after 5 years and 73K miles with oil changes every 5K miles.

Have you read the many reports from those that are still using the original drain plug without an issue after many miles and oil changes ?

2019 still under warranty, I would not drive it and call Ford to collect it. Reading the codes may shed more light on what's wrong - I got the same indication when I change my PTU oil and forgot to reconnect the temperature sensor, so its the "catch all" notice.