1004ron

High ambient temperature doesn't result in coolant evaporation. "engine starts rough when cold started, but clears up after about a minute or two" The loss of coolant and the rough running on cold starts points to coolant intrusion. There's a number of tests that can be done to confirm the coolant intrusion - try a forum search.

As I was getting set up with my laptop to follow the above instructions when I noticed the "RGTM On-Demand Self-Test", so I thought lets try this and it worked. As the test ran it drove the tailgate full open, but being at the drivers seat I wasn't sure of what I saw, so repeated the test and yes it went full open - then I tried the buttons and they too took it wide open - wide open is where its staying seeing as there's more than adequate clearance to by open garage door. Thanks everyone - I didn't need to spend a dime !!!

Thanks @Wubster100 I'm wondering if my Forscan version is capable of writing the As Built to the RGTM ? I'll be trying that this evening.

Thanks @omar302 That's worth a try before I start throwing money at it. I always resist taking it to the dealership but considering it now.

This evening I disconnected the battery again for more than 20 seconds and then used my laptop and Forscan to reboot the RGTM - nothing changed. I wonder if there's any value in paying my local dealership to perform the procedure listed in the below article? https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10159460-0001.pdf In this post from the Explorer forum the OP was experiencing exactly the same issue and resolved it - "I've borrowed a scanner and initialized the tailgate. That fixed the issue." How do I do this? https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/power-lift-gate-does-not-open-all-the-way.504939/

Thanks @omar302 I had thought about trying the right side first but discounted that because the liftgate actuator still stops at the same place when assisting it open by hand. Your report that it never got resolved isn't confidence inspiring but mine most definitely did go higher until recently, which leaves me with just a little hope that I can restore it to its previous state. I plan to try the battery reset procedure one more time before purchasing the replacement.

I'm considering the Left and Right side pair from Rockauto.com for $192 STABILUS 2A944330 STABILUS 3C055268 It's the Stabilus brand - anyone have experience with this brand? I have this brand on the hood struts and they're working well but haven't had them installed for very long.

BTW, this started recently when the windshield installer ran the battery flat, so it's really puzzling that it can't be reset to work as it did prior to that event.

After bumping my head a few times and my wife deciding that the full open isn't what it used to be, I need to to figure out if its the gas filled strut on the right side or the electric actuator on the left side, or should I just order both. I've already replaced the gas struts on the hood. Edit: I propped up the tailgate and detached each in turn and find that the right side gas strut fully extends and takes some force to compress a little but no way of knowing if its doing so with enough force. I hit the button with the actuator top connection disconnected and it travels hard to the fully extended position and to the closed position, but because its not seeing the closed limit it drives fully extended. With everything connected I drive the tailgate open assisting with my hand and it still stops abruptly short of the fully up position. So that leaves me with buying parts without a concise diagnostics, which goes against the grain - I think I'll start with the right side gas strut, which is a whole lot easier to replace although my test mentioned above would suggest that's not the issue.

Longer bigger gear selector?

NGK 6 is hotter than NGK 7. NGK.com: Heat Range Conversion Chart

You are correct, as usual. The battery age reported is correct at 15 days, and the state of charge is 84% 14 of the 15 days was spent in the airport surface parking lot. I haven't looked at changing the code to suit the AGM, and might just leave it where its at.

Yes, that's correct, you need to add it to your signature because the owners of this forum are too lazy or dumb to correct the reason why the profile details do not show. .

Is there a list of what's upgraded in the PTU shown in the video, or is it only the thermal shield?

Please add your Model and Year to your profile signature, and location - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I did this a couple of weeks ago and its a major improvement - now they are actually capable of being considered puddle lights.

Thanks omar302 Checking the screenshot on my phone, it looks like I had the correct PID, now to check this again in two weeks when I return from my trip abroad.

Is there any change required to the front/rear proportioning valves when changing the rotor specs? I ask because on one of my vehicles the manufacturer brought out a recall/campaign upgrade to the front rotors and callipers and included was two new proportioning valves.

omar302 Could you tell me exactly which PID value you were looking at for the battery state of charge, and if this is only available in Forscan full version or also on Forscan Lite. I used my iPhone and Forscan Lite to access what I think was the battery charge state. Also keen to know if there's any specific BMS selection better suited to the AGM. I won't be able to check it for two weeks - its parked at the airport while I'm in Korea. Got a fantastic rental, a G80 Genesis - fantastic luxury car.

After a couple of trips with the new battery mine is showing 96% .

Thanks @omar302 This morning when I connected my laptop to change the battery config as you suggested above, and it was taking me longer to get Forscan to communicate with the OBDLink MX+ and with that I got the battery low warning, and that's after it was on the tender overnight. Decided its time for a new one, so the quickest was to buy one from Walmart - I got the H6 AGM Platinum for $178.00 - it gets good reviews online. The Interstate H6 bought from Costco lasted 3 years and 1 month, just out of warranty. With the new battery installed I first changed the type as above and then did a BMS reset. Note that the new AGM is 3kg (6.6 lb) heavier than the previous one. I paid the $12 for a years subscription to Forscan - feel it well worth it and the developers most certainly deserve the support. .

I measured the current position it stops in from the bottom of the latch and its 63", then if I move it by hand to its maximum travel its 73.5" My wife thinks its always been at this height, which I'm having difficulty believing that seeing that I'm 5' 7" (67") which means I would have bumped my head a few times by now. I found fuse #76 which is crazy to get at, and then couldn't access the BCM fuses - I have the small tray in that area and can't figure how to get it out without breaking something, so I just took the Batt Pos terminal off for 5mins again, and no change.

Thanks @Haz I tried the initialization procedure choosing to disconnect the battery, checked for codes with Forscan Lite, none found, and then used the front button - it went open to the same less than full open position. Also tried with the remote FOB, and same results. What is the RGTM self-test? DTC_2024-12-12_13:51:55.txt

So the new power struts are what got yours to lift all the way up?

Although the title state "Power" Liftgate some of the comments aren't related to the power option. Yesterday while the windshield installer was busy he ran the battery flat and all custom settings were lost and what I found today is the liftgate isn't lifting high enough and the isntructions in the Owners Manual aren't working for me. I can move it up by hand with no resistance another 8" and hold the button until it chimes, but next time its opened it goes back to the previous too low position. Anyone have any insight on what next to try?