1004ron

Agreed, legal battles aren't welcome regardless how strong your case may be, so if there's any uncertainty you could use the type of catch-can that I have which takes a couple of minutes to remove/install as and when needed. Definitely wouldn't run my 2.7L V6 without it.

Have you cycled the ABS system during the bleed process?

It's not my observation that "many" have said the catch can will void warranty - the law is not on their side when it comes to proving the catch can caused whatever engine failure.

Welcome. Could you post a photo of the connector/plug?

The reason why you don't find that is because most don't bother replacing them because the complete half-shaft needs to be removed and disassembled to install the new bellows seal - typically by the time these seals need replacement its time for new half-shafts. Post the part number of photo of the seal so that we can be sure what you're referring to.

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Did you replace the fan or the Ford Dealership?

Sorry to hear that you have a large repair bill. My thoughts are that the RDU shouldn't suffer without maintenance at 170K miles.

I've contemplated using this but have just erred on the side of caution and went with Motorcraft, but if I see enough good reports of owners here using it, I might go with it for the next trans fluid drain and fill which will be in a couple of years from now. That special has passed, but I've seen it reappear a few times recently. Valvoline Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid 1 GA, Case of 3 $51.00

Good to hear that you've solved the problem. If the chain was that badly worn at 180K miles it suggests a history or poor maintenance.

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See if the symptoms are similar to this thread:

It's the constant velocity joints in the drive shafts - there's kits available to replace the rubber boots and refill with special Moly grease but they're not reliable and a waste of time and money. If high mileage its best to replace the complete drive shaft / half shaft.

I would run some injector cleaner and if there's no improvement do a compression test.

BUMP

Ctrl-z Account Hacked today - banned. Might want to revise your bank account password.

My 2017 Sport has a slight whine but haven't identified the source and my PTU and RDU fluids look good. I haven't heard of widespread failures of the RDU but Cerberus below report is one.

A very common misconception "Sensor Code = Sensor Failed" - the sensor code is only a starting point in the diagnostic process, and in this case its indicating that the camshaft positions do not correlate with the crankshaft position which is commonly due to the Variable Valve Timing control valve problems. Most often occurs due to poor oil change intervals causing fouling of the VVT control valves - some got lucky and had success cleaning the fine mesh screens on these valves. What's the mileage? What's the oil change interval? What oil do you use? What oil filter do you use? Do you get oil changes done at quick lube places?

I see the trend with tire fitment shops offering bumper to bumper service, and just like quick lube places, I would steer well clear of them - they know only enough about the other parts of a car to be dangerous. From what you described of the current symptoms I'd be very surprised if there's no stored fault codes and suspect the code scanner is not capable - I personally only use Forscan after learning the deficiencies of other scanners.

What shop is that? I ask because your comments here suggest it's highly incompetent and add to that ineptitude, they obviously didn't even do a test drive. You're going to need a shop that has the required diagnostic tools and skills - it could be a multitude of things like faulty wheel speed sensor, ........... If its mobile you could take it to Autozone and have them scan it for fault codes, but a professional would be the best option.

At a 170K miles and never had the PTU fluid changed, I'd be leaning towards that being the source of the noise. It's probably not recoverable but would do a fluid change on it first - the fluid, if there's any left, will give you a good indication of the PTU's condition. I expect yours doesn't have a drain plug so will need an oil extractor - when you replace it be sure to add a drain plug - a search of the forum will provide details on how that's done.

With that said, have you been changing fluids on the PTU? - if so, what interval and what oil?

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I'm surprised that the Auto Stop Start can't be disabled with Forscan - soon after we bought a BMW X5 for my wife I used Bimmercode ($50 app) to code the ASS default to OFF. Edit: If it can be done on the F150 it should be possible on the Edge.