1004ron

I'll repeat what @enigma-2 asked in the post you quoted, what exactly is yours doing? See the below post on how I reset mine:

Welcome. Use your OBDII dongle with the free app FORScan Lite and scan for codes.

If you're asking what CCA means, then I doubt that you had the battery properly tested. If you take it to a place like AutoZone they'll do a battery health check and report the Cold Crank Amps and how it compares to the new battery rating. So tell us, how did you check the battery?

Read the stored error codes, or have them read at a place like AutoZone and report back what they are. Also, before posting again please add your Year & Model model to your signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

@bscott94 my Costco battery lasted about the length of the warranty and that's why I decided to go with the Everstart AGM. Edit: Gone are the days when Costco batteries were high quality with the best replacement warranty around.

Because there's so many conflicting reports on the use of MaxLife in Fords I err on the side of caution and stick with Mercon LV. Also it's not a huge saving with the MaxLife considering how infrequent we change the trans fluid. I know MacT uses the MaxLife. Valvoline Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid 1 GA, Case of 3  $51.00

Anyone here use MaxLife?

The thread that @Wubster100 posted addresses the open position height adjustment, but yours is behaving as if there's an obstruction and that triggers it to drive closed. See if you can move the tailgate further open by hand. On the last page of that thread is the reset that worked for my height adjustment using FORScan - worth trying that.

What oil and oil filter have you been using? What oil change interval have you been using? I ask those questions because the P0012 and P0299 are typically the result of oil sludge due to lack of maintenance. The P0012 could be the unqualified "mechanic" who did the "Timing Set" got the valve timing off, or sludge has fouled the Variable Valve Timing solenoid. The P0299 is related to the turbo - poor maintenance could also be the cause of that. Again, find yourself a reputable qualified mechanic.

I find it somewhat puzzling - the front bearing support bracket was mentioned as problematic - correcting the bracket with the old drive shaft still had the noise. A new driveshaft resulted in no more noise - so was it a problem driveshaft all along?

Thanks for the confirmation. The clear lens is actually glued, just a whole lot better than the original. I highly doubt that you would have been able to remove the lens from the new one without destroying it.

Got to ask, what made you decide against removal of the lens from the new light?

Good job. Agree, removal of the spoiler isn't easy and I had to pause a couple of times to make sure I was doing the right thing, but in the end all it took was a little more brute force than what I was trying in the beginning.

@jacobson has the same gen as mine, and you suggested he purchase a Dorman off eBay and pop the lens off. I bought and installed the Dorman and that is why I commented: "Having done the replacement myself, your comment makes me think that you haven't tried what you're suggesting."

Welcome. If you're not a DIY person and reliant on service shops, then search for a reputable shop because the mechanic you've been using is obviously not qualified and throwing parts at it. When you say that it struggles going uphill - is the engine revving high but not changing up to the next gear - the engine revving high should deliver more power until it reaches maximum revs - maybe a video of what's happening will give us a better idea. Get the stored fault codes read and post them here.

@chr8990 My schedule is much the same. • Oil - Full Synthetic (5k) - same • Brake Fluid (40K) - 2 years • Transmission Flush (30K) - 45K • Coolant Flush (45K) - 2 to 3 years • Spark Plug replacement/Tune Up (45K) - same • PTU (30K) - same • RDU (30K - same time as PTU) - same • I have a catch can on mine - I have the same JLT catch can

@Przemo I replaced those fasteners on my 2017 Sport and after a few months the rattle was back.

Those vulnerabilities exist for all Ford models, and all other manufactures - some have included dual injection for the GDI carbon issue, revised spark plugs, and coil-over-plugs.

Having done the replacement myself, your comment makes me think that you haven't tried what you're suggesting.

2008 in the subject line and posted in the 3.5L section.

Time for some diagnostics - based on the sparse info provided best do a compression test - a blown head gasket could cause over-pressurization of the coolant system and expel the coolant.

It's really difficult, isn't it.

Who would have guessed that one day your Social Security would be at risk?

Opens at home on my iMac with Firefox.

I too can't access that link - Windows Edge browser at work. Active noise canceling retrofit - Printable Version