1004ron

There's a good deal of things that could cause what you describe, which could be pre-ignition and that doesn't take long to destroy an engine. Fuel grade/octane and carbon buildup etc. could cause it. Check for stored fault codes - yes there could be codes without the CEL.

You will need a suitably qualified auto-elec tech to diagnose, but before that I would confirm if the parts are OEM.

Welcome. What brand of radiator fan and fan controller is installed? Browse the forum and you'll find that the only reliable replacement for these components is OEM. This is most likely causing the AC issue as well.

Thanks @omar302 I had those ones in my Amazon basket, but might change that to the updated model.

There isn't enough information provided for anyone on this forum to offer any remedy, and if you aren't in a position to do diagnostics then best you find yourself a better mechanic. Have you had the stored error codes read?

Did that mechanic offer any reason why he suggested it's not plugs?

Does anyone have recommendations on LED turn signal bulbs, and are they significantly brighter - is it worth the change? I just recently installed front LED turn signals on my wife's BMW X5 and they are a lot better that the stock incandescent bulbs.

Here's what my 2.5yo battery reads this morning - vehicle hasn't been used for 3 days (its bike weather) - as can be seen, it's in perfect condition. Stop chasing your tail and get it tested properly.

What was it immediately after shutting down the engine, and how many hours did it take to drop from that number to the 12.46v ? Did you do the BMS reset after installation of the new battery? Is the new battery the exact same type and capacity as the original?

Why not stop in at Autozone and get the battery tested as @akirby suggested? The test will display the battery CCA capacity, cranking amps, and the vehicles charging system.

What's the mileage on the replacement engine? Is it using oil?

BUMP

What version was the Chinese supplied one? I wouldn't consider using a diff from anything other than a 3.5L - maybe @Haz can confirm compatibility.

I have a 104,000 mile on my 2017 Sport, do all my own oil changes at 5K mile interval, and I keep the splash shields in place - it serves a purpose protecting the aux belt, pulleys, tensioner etc. from getting fouled by mud and water .......

What country is that? Please add your vehicle Model / Year and Location to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Welcome. What Model/Year/FWD/AWD ? - please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/ Add to your list the PTU and RDU.

Second question is when I went to tow the edge home I attempted to turn the engine over which it did not. Is there a reset that must take place? So now I’m looking at replacing a transmission this weekend. thanks How did you attempt to turn the engine? - use a wrench on the crank main pulley bolt?

What's that actually mean?

Not going so well recently.

Not sure how much you can trust their response. You could stop in at a place like Autozone and have them scan for stored codes and scan each wheel sensor. Or go to another tire fitment shop and have them assess and provide a quote.

Don't forget to reset the Battery Monitoring System once the new battery is installed, and if its a size change that needs to be setup using Forscan.

I got mine at Costco, but there's many good brands available, even Walmart sells some good ones. You should also be able to go up one size.

Welcome. Get your battery tested for free at a place like Autozone. Add your location and vehicle Model/Year to your profile signature - Settings - Ford Edge Forum

The first step would be to bleed the brakes without the engine running i.e. no vacuum for the booster.

@sounduser please add your Location (country) and vehicle Model & Year to profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/