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Bump @Robert Lane

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@Zand Zadyen Frank please add your Model & Year to your profile signature. headlamp assembly - Accessories & Modifications - Ford Edge Forum

I'd forgotten, so took a look and see that the front use the plastic rivets and the rear uses the existing hex head screws. Its a lot easier if you take the wheels off.

From around 2010 vehicles no longer used an IAC - electronic throttle body is what they use. I would start by getting the stored error codes read.

Is it the original battery? Need to get the battery load tested - you could jump start it and have a place like Autzone test it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083L9NS9D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Same issue with the Sport, Ford don't make any that match the profile of the body trim. I don't know how different the ST body trim is, but the ones I bought on Amazon are perfect - you could contact that seller and see what they have for the ST.

Firstly, keep it to this thread - stop cross-posting. If air got into the system then you'll need equipment to bleed the ABS system - sounds like your 3 mechanics aren't suitably qualified and equipped, so consider taking it to the dealership or find a reputable independent shop. Note, I haven't read your first post because the wall of text doesn't make for an easy read - it wouldn't take much to use a little punctuation.

Tell us what you've already checked. Have you had the stored error codes read?

I'm a relatively new wireless CarPlay user - I can switch from any app such as Waze to Sync, turn on or off the steering wheel heat and while on the Sync screen hit "maps" and I'm back in Waze, or any other Carplay app.

My local dealership said it was a major undertaking to try and get the keypad code from Ford, and to date they'd never actually accomplished that. With the photo that I had of my keys with the code they cut a physical key for me which allowed me to get into the car - this was when I accidently locked both sets of key fobs and keys inside the car.

Please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

The key is to monitor your coolant and oil level, and if there's no drop in either of those then its most likely climatic conditions causing water vapor from the exhaust.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/pirelli-p-zero

This wouldn't be much of an issue with our FWD and AWD, but not sure about accident liabilities etc. I had issues with my wife's RWD Mustang and would have got rid of the P Zero's sooner had I know this limitation. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/popping-noise-in-front-passenger-suspension.181435/page-2#post-3676964

Its normal to fill at that rate in winter, and most of it will be condensate - in winter I empty it every second time I gas up.

What are you using to read codes? With the symptoms you describe I'd be surprised if there's no stored codes.

In a couple of months I'll be at 92K miles and plan to do the second drain and fill of the transmission. Where's the best deal on fluid? Amazon 5qrt X 2 = $74.66 (incl shipping and tax). RockAuto 5qrt X 2 = $68.44 (incl shipping and tax).

Just checked my coolant level - its at or just a fraction above the MIN mark, which is where its been since I bought the car in March 2017.

Coolant loss - in my opinion is a critical problem which will only get worse and could leave you stranded and add to the repair build, or rejection of warranty if not addressed in a timely manner.

I'm sure that there's a notice from Ford posted to the forum that the spec has changed to the new Yellow type. This is what's in my manual, but its been superseded.

Shouldn't that be "parallel" ? Not sure, but expect its possible on the Edge, on my wife's 2015 Mustang I disabled the hyperflash using Forscan.

My 2017 Sport has just over 85K miles on it and I've never topped up the coolant and it's still on the mark where it was when I bought it new in March 2017. I baby my Sport but have seen many here that give theirs a good beating, and don't recall any posts here reporting issues with the 2.7L. The decision to replace one or both head gaskets would be based on what's found - if it appears that it overheated at some point then pretty obvious both heads need to be done.

5 years, or 60,000 miles for the powertrain warranty, so you should be covered. Yes, a head gasket should be covered unless they find and can prove its related to something you did - can't think of anything. The manual calls for coolant replacement at 10 years, so it can't be blamed on that.

Maybe @WWWPerfA_ZN0W could explain how he did it.