1004ron

What does "serviced regularly" actually mean - oil change interval (Miles/Months), what oil, what oil filter ...........? Yes, standing for extended periods is not preferred, but if correctly serviced/maintained that shouldn't be a problem.

Yes it can, if you identify the source of the leak or take it to someone who can. Has the windshield ever been replaced? - I ask because the first replacement by SafeLite leaked and it took a third installation to correct the leak and defects with the poor quality windshields they deal in.

Welcome. What all have you checked so far? What spark plugs are you using and where were they bought?

Not the rain sensor, only the lane assist camera needs calibration. Find an installer that will install an OEM windshield with the same spec that you see on the existing one. I'd advise against SafeLite - I had a bad experience with them installing windshields with defects that had a poor repair attempted - took three tries, and even then the clips for the plastic trim were not correctly installed.

What are your expectations regarding the K&N Cold Air Intake?

Looks good. What concerns me is the lack of service records up to the 43K mile, and the following oil change 9K miles later and a few more gaps in service history, also done by tire change places. The auction and what appears to be lengthy attempts to sell it after that would also concern me. Could be that the interior is worn and maybe need new OEM seat covers and that is putting off most potential buyers. Not something I'd touch, but if I was interested, I'd do a very thorough inspection or pay for that to be done.

The ones I'm using linked above are USB-3

With the three tire brands I've tried the original fitted at factory was the best - SCORPION™ VERDE ALL SEASON265/40R21 105V XL From my photo records this is the original tire and they lasted 50K miles, so I'll call Costco and see if they can get these for my next tire change. Quite pricey at $442 each.

Got the wheels balanced at Discount Tires, and as expected they tried hard to use the opportunity to sell me a set of new tires - I declined and went with the free balancing. They reported minor balance weight changes. Haven't had the shimmy shake, but if it happens again I'll do more searching.

I haven't done any further research on the gear whine. Just last week I changed the PTU fluid and the magnetic plug was clear and the oil looked good. Sometimes the AWD keeps power to the rear at speeds greater than +- 50 mph and that's when its more prominent. I back off the throttle and when the power goes to the front wheels only it seems quieter.

Installed the new NGK's this morning. The old plugs looked very good and no change in gap - just thought that there may be benefits with the revised heat range plugs. Looked into the cylinders and they're all pristine, like brand new.

I need to correct my estimated remaining life on the Alenza's. Was at Discount Tire to get a free balancing done and they reported 5/32" remaining tread depth and offered $888 off on a new set of tires based on the fact that these would not make the 80K mile guarantee. 26,630 miles with 5/32" remaining. I declined because I'd rather have my next set of tires installed at Costco but need to check the numbers to see if its best to take the $888 at Discount Tire. Now to decide on what tires too use next or just stick with the Alenza's - the original Pirelli's lasted longer.

from Pramirez49

Pramirez49 what system did you install?

All the best with the Explorer - everyone that I know that has one is very happy with them. You'll be lucky if the Explorer forum has a @Haz

Has anyone modified their 2015 - 2019 infotainment system? I saw the below ad and it perked my interest,......just a little. Ford Edge (2015 – 2019) 13.6″ IPS HD Touch-Screen Android Navigation System | Android 11 | GPS | BT | Wifi | CAMERA | CarPlay

You can disable the hyperflash with Forscan and change them to Turn Signal Only, not Park & Turn Signal. The ForScan changes were: 726-29-02 xxx* xxxx xxxx 0=Turn Only 1=Turn & Parking/Position

Thanks omar302 That rubber flap on mine is also not compressed, and no oil leaks to be seen - I'm guessing the mount is still good. Today I got it on four jack stands and checked everything out on the underside, drive shafts, all engine and transmission mounts, prop-shaft as best I could see and feel. I did an engine oil change and PTU change while I had it elevated - only been 3K miles since I last changed both. First pulled the PTU fill plug and nothing dripped - was concerned that trans fluid was leaking by the seals, but that's a non-issue now. The only thing done different was I rotated the wheels - all four tire wear is even, fronts same wear as rears. I then took it on the interstate and could not invoke the shimmy again, so I'm suspecting one of the wheels that was on the front needs balancing - will be going back to Discount Tires for all four balancing.

Have you tried any of the suggestions above?

I don't see any LED replacements for that bulb type. Signal Lamp Bulb - Ford (DS7Z-13466-A)

Compared to the height of a new mount, mine looks compressed.

My wife's BMW X5 has two of these hydraulic engine mounts, and I have replaced one of them - it leaked oil and was compressed. The Edge Sport has only one of them on the right side and mine looks compressed/collapsed - see below photo - hows this compare to yours? If I get off work early enough tomorrow I'll get it up on four jack stands and inspect everything underneath - I always inspect the drive-shaft rubber boots when I do oil changes and they're all in good condition with no lubricant leakage.

Welcome. Looks like you've done your homework and already know about the internal coolant pump, and yes change it ASAP if there's no record. Personally, I'd look at something that doesn't have this coolant pump issue. Also do transmission, PTU and RDU fluid changes.

My 2017 Sport is very well maintained with 107K miles on the clock. It runs very smooth but has a slight drive-line gear whine when above 50 mph and still sending power to the rear, but I can live with that. More concerning is when on the interstate cruising at speeds above +- 50 mph and accelerate fairly hard, I can feel a shimmy shake which feels like an out of balance wheel, but subsides as soon as I let off the accelerator. Next weekend I'll be doing a lube service including the PTU, and wanted to hear from you folks what I should inspect to identify the cause of the shimmy shake. I'll also get the wheels balanced, but doubting that this is what I'm feeling.