1004ron

There's an echo in here.

Assuming you're thinking of the metal pick tools, I don't use anything like that in fear of scoring the O-ring seating surface - I degrease it and grip it with a sheet of the blue garage paper towel for traction and squeeze it towards one side until it puckers a little, and then its easy to lever it out with a plastic tooth pick or anything like that.

Just yesterday I stocked up using Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COX0JM/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1TO5NU8UU9MH3&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=0 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010QU0SPU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Why was he fired, just didn't make the grade or what? You do have the option of paying an unqualified backyard mechanic for multiple attempts to fix it, or pay the going rate to the dealership for them to really fix it and enjoy the warranty on their parts and workmanship.

I've had mine since March 2017 and have no issues with it so far, but then again I don't use it at all and wished I could have got everything included in my Sport except the roof.

Thanks, I'll give that a try - if I don't use the compressed air can immediately after the drive through wash, which includes a towel dry, by the time I get home or the next stop the water spots are all over the side of the car, which of course is so much more noticeable on black.

Thanks, I'll look into that before my paint gets etched too bad.

From the first time I waxed my Sport I got a fair amount of wax on the matt black plastic parts. I use a pencil eraser then "Back to Black" and it would only last max a week, I even tried smooth peanut butter and it performed a little better, then this weekend I tried another internet idea, Magic Erasers. It took a fair bit of rubbing, and trashed one sponge pad, but the plastic looks as good as new and don't believe I'll need to use creams like "Back to Black". There's one detailing issue that I wonder if you all also encounter - I now carry a microfibre cloth and can of compressed air in the car, which I use every time I get out the car wash to blow the residual water out of the two side mirrors and wipe off what's dripped from them. If I don't do this, when I stop some time later the sides are covered in water/soap spots. I've thought of drilling drain holes on the underside of the mirrors, but too scared. Anyone else find this?

I use Lexol for cleaning and conditioning the leather, which would be good to apply after using Woolite for the initial cleaning.

Not sure if that would help me - I work at a power plant and at times the moisture fall-out from the smoke stack is quite acidic and I already have what looks like water pock marks. This product says its chemical resistant, so there's no guarantee that it will protect against acid rain. With words like "resistant" makes the 7 year warranty somewhat meaningless - they have a get-out clause from the get go. I see the application starts at $300 - what does a car of our size actually cost?

What do you mean by "recently started" vs "when its is driven back from the garage in the morning" - if it appeared right after it was at the garage, you should take it straight back there. Also, what makes you think of "application of lubricant into somewhere on axle" - did you actually hear the noise coming from the axle? - Is it FWD or AWD, front or rear axle?

Sorry to hear about your problem. Is that mechanic at a Ford service centre or an independent? I haven't read about this type of problem being common with these vehicles, so interested to hear how that mechanic came to believe that.

Yeah, I didn't focus on the key word "bulb".

There is a few and it looks like they're getting started. https://www.autobytel.com/car-buying-guides/features/10-cars-with-led-lights-that-outshine-the-competition-130697/

I had to do a bit a Googling, and if its main function is "sound", I'll definitely be keeping my money in my pocket. What "control" is it meant to do?

That's what mine held, and only that you mentioned the manual I took a look and it states the capacity as 11.8 oz which is clearly incorrect - very odd.

How do you think the retailers get hold of it then, and does that really matter seeing as its freely available across the country? Did you see this? Not sure what's your point. Doesn't mention that they add it to Motocraft.

What do you mean by that? https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XO-5W20-5QSP-Premium-Synthetic/dp/B000NU87PM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1514849034&sr=1-1&keywords=motorcraft+oil https://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraft-SAE-5w30-Synthetic-Blend-Motor-Oil-12-Quart-Case/937180249

Have you seen this? http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17985-oil-change/?p=179414

You keep using Mobil-1, but you could be a little more courteous to other forum members.The Kendall has specific additive which is lacking in the Motorcraft. Titanium oxide nanoparticles as additives in engine oil

That's just wild guessing to suit your smear campaign.

Same response to your multiple posts on the same subject, Sounds like you have a defective product which should still be under warranty, so return the vehicle as you plan, or get it repaired under warranty - by no means is what you describe the norm.

As mentioned in your other posts on the same subject, Sounds like you have a defective product which should still be under warranty, so return the vehicle as you plan, or get it repaired under warranty - by no means is what you describe the norm.

Sounds like you have a defective product which should still be under warranty, so return the vehicle as you plan, or get it repaired under warranty - by no means is what you describe the norm.

I don't think that's what was being suggested, but rather that the oil in the plug well would cause electric arcing and plug misfires.