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In that case, I would do a compression test and let-down test, and while you have the plugs removed for that, check to see if any of them look steam cleaned. Seldom that cylinder heads, and head gaskets survive an overheating incident.

Lexol doesn't have much of an odor, and you can only smell it when applying, but nothing a couple of hours later. I let it soak in for a couple of hours and wipe off what ever might still be on the surface and it doesn't leave the seats slippery.

What I've noticed at the dealership where I bought my 2017, is that they're selling quick enough for them not to consider significant discounts.

If it were me, I'd suffer the inconvenience and find another "new" dealer. To the left of the top circle it looks like they rounded a nut.

Would be interesting to hear a counter argument from JLT Performance who judging from Howie's post, can undercut the competitors prices drastically while equaling or exceeding the quality and performance.

It's hard to believe that someone could come up with a product so far below the current going price, but it would most certainly draw a lot of interest. Why don't they rent a Sport for a day to do the mock-up?

I've seen photos like that of carburetor engines - what's the origin of those?

Depends on where its leaking from, if its the mounting thread, then re-installing it with thread sealer should take care of it, but if the oil is coming from the electrical switch section, then a replacement is your only option. If there's minor leakage at the mounting thread, its not going to give you false low pressure warnings, but if its leaking into the electrical switch it could be giving false indications. Until the actual oil pressure is confirmed, I'd not drive the vehicle.

What options did you order and what's the total price?

I would take a low pressure warning at face value until proven otherwise. It could be the oil solenoid valve that regulates the pressure, but best to have something like that checked ASAP.

Way back, my dad used to trickle flow water into hot running engines intakes and it would effectively de-carbonize the engine - I wonder if this procedure is something like that?

Been a year, so forgotten what's part of the packages.

I'm pretty sure my 2017 Sport came with HID's - they're white.

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That's a whole lot cheaper than this one - https://www.factoryrepairmanuals.com/2017-ford-edge-factory-service-manual-cd-original-shop-repair/ Any more reasonably priced ones available?

I can't offer too much advice here, but can tell you what I saw when one of my signature lights was replaced, it is a bulky fitting that included the black trim (bezel) pieces.

I tried that, but I suspect mine is too tough for that due to the length of time its had to bake on. I used Goo Off (like Goo Gone) with a magic eraser and it worked the best of all, finished off with Ultimate Black and it still looking good since a day after your post. Thanks, I'll be giving that a try.

All service work comes with a warranty. Get a quote and see if its worth making it their baby - can't see it being more than 30 to 60 minutes.

Spend a little and have the dealership do it, and then they're locked into a warranty on it.

Where did you read that - any chance you could post a link?

Must have just dropped to that again in the last couple of days. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COX0JM/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1TO5NU8UU9MH3&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=0

So for most owners in the US Ford considers the PTU lubed for life.

Does your PTU use transmission oil or gear oil?

My gut also tells me you'll be back - is it a warranty repair, and if so can't you take it to another dealer?

If yours failed doing 30K oil change intervals I need to consider doing mine every 15K. I wonder what the current models failure rate actually is, and if there's any stats to confirm that oil changes are really effective in avoiding failures vs Ford's "filled for life".