1004ron

For any difference in wheel diameter/circumference between the left/right wheels on any differential front/rear will have that differential working harder for every mile covered, and the size of that difference will determine how many miles before failure. Tire rotation is important, but has nothing to do with the impact on the differential due to diameter/circumference. The left/right imbalance might be more detrimental on the front as the front wheels are always powered, whereas the rear disengage at cruising speeds. Some tire places will trim a new tire to match the existing three.

Why not go to a site like RockAuto.com and select the parts listed for your model? Sound like the Fusion guy is leading to more confusion. What Model & Year Ford Edge do you have? - please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/ I highly doubt that the AC compressor needs to be removed for an alternator replacement.

paradiddle1 Been a member since 2014 and his account was hacked by Russian POS today

Burning 1qt in 1200 miles is unlikely going to be seen in the exhaust plume. Need to track down the oil consumption path, possibly a bad PCV valve etc., or worst case piston rings.

Welcome. If the bleed process is correct then I'd suspect that you got a bad replacement master cylinder.

Curious, how did you break it? - need a torque wrench? Sure the 2016 is the same - maybe @Haz can confirm FRONT SUSPENSION. BRAKE COMPONENTS.. 2016 Ford Edge 2.0L EcoBoost A/T AWD SEL Sport Utility | Lakeland Ford Online Parts, Lakeland FL

That's called a "speed nut" and @Haz could help with the Ford part number. It actually threads on, not push-on. Many places stock this type of thing. TIFCO Industries - Auto / Body Shop, Speed Nuts, Metal Screw, Flat Ford Lincoln Mercury 1/4"-20 Thread Pal Speed Nuts Dash Trunk Firewall 10pcs LB | eBay Ford 3/16" Stud Dash Trim Molding Clip Emblem Pal Thread Cutting Speed Nuts 10 Q | eBay

What are you using to read codes?

Something similar happens with my 2017 Sport's front passenger seat - every time after my wife's been with me in my car I have to lean over and reorientate the seat belt clip to stop the rattle.

Best of luck with that - it will be the first reported aftermarket/3rd party one that works.

Welcome. What brand of fans did you use?

Welcome. What does it list tin your owners manual?

Don't you think a little diagnostics would be good before throwing parts at it?

What does "serviced regularly" actually mean - oil change interval (Miles/Months), what oil, what oil filter ...........? Yes, standing for extended periods is not preferred, but if correctly serviced/maintained that shouldn't be a problem.

Yes it can, if you identify the source of the leak or take it to someone who can. Has the windshield ever been replaced? - I ask because the first replacement by SafeLite leaked and it took a third installation to correct the leak and defects with the poor quality windshields they deal in.

Welcome. What all have you checked so far? What spark plugs are you using and where were they bought?

Not the rain sensor, only the lane assist camera needs calibration. Find an installer that will install an OEM windshield with the same spec that you see on the existing one. I'd advise against SafeLite - I had a bad experience with them installing windshields with defects that had a poor repair attempted - took three tries, and even then the clips for the plastic trim were not correctly installed.

What are your expectations regarding the K&N Cold Air Intake?

Looks good. What concerns me is the lack of service records up to the 43K mile, and the following oil change 9K miles later and a few more gaps in service history, also done by tire change places. The auction and what appears to be lengthy attempts to sell it after that would also concern me. Could be that the interior is worn and maybe need new OEM seat covers and that is putting off most potential buyers. Not something I'd touch, but if I was interested, I'd do a very thorough inspection or pay for that to be done.

BUMP

The ones I'm using linked above are USB-3

With the three tire brands I've tried the original fitted at factory was the best - SCORPION™ VERDE ALL SEASON265/40R21 105V XL From my photo records this is the original tire and they lasted 50K miles, so I'll call Costco and see if they can get these for my next tire change. Quite pricey at $442 each.

Got the wheels balanced at Discount Tires, and as expected they tried hard to use the opportunity to sell me a set of new tires - I declined and went with the free balancing. They reported minor balance weight changes. Haven't had the shimmy shake, but if it happens again I'll do more searching.

I haven't done any further research on the gear whine. Just last week I changed the PTU fluid and the magnetic plug was clear and the oil looked good. Sometimes the AWD keeps power to the rear at speeds greater than +- 50 mph and that's when its more prominent. I back off the throttle and when the power goes to the front wheels only it seems quieter.

Installed the new NGK's this morning. The old plugs looked very good and no change in gap - just thought that there may be benefits with the revised heat range plugs. Looked into the cylinders and they're all pristine, like brand new.