1004ron

I have something similar which I haven't yet resolved, except mine is the opposite - I get the shake/wobble when accelerating at speeds 55 to 65 mph. When accelerating and decelerating the drive applies forces on the toe - accelerating tends to toe-in and decelerating toe-out. Possible causes are as @enigma-2 stated and inner/outer tie rod ends.

Going for a record............

What brand of fans and controller are you using?

Today I got it on four ramps and with the engine running had my wife shuffle the steering wheel while I felt every joint and connection and couldn't find a thing. I got one of our GoPro cameras from work thinking that I'd mount it and record the shake but couldn't find a location to mount it. I'm not keen to start throwing parts at it so I'll wait until I get a set of new tires and then take it for alignment, which should be in about 5 to 10K miles (2 to 3 months).

The standard devices like that are notorious for not actually being able to read the codes - best get a free copy of FORscanLite and read codes.

What are you using to read/scan for codes?

@omar302 are you a surgeon that performs those intricate keyhole procedures? With the assy's installed I removed the bulb from the left side then for the right side I shifted the coolant reservoir to out the way but then hit a snag - I couldn't pull the bulb and then disconnect it because its cable was entangled with the few small gauge wires inside the assembly. On that one I pulled the ballast and rerouted the wire enabling it to be disconnected/connected with the bulb outside the housing. I looked at the many lower priced options but decided I'd go with something that is more likely to last as long as the original.

Getting ready for the delivery of the new HID's I started the job. The only way to do this without damage is to remove the headlamp assemblies - its way too finicky to seat the HID with the headlamp assy's installed in the car. The tabs rotate about a 1/4 turn counter-clock to release. I was concerned that it might be a ballast issue to switched the globes and the orange one moved to the other side - both high and low beam is orange.

@Haz Special request - how do I release the these HID's? I see a black plastic tab that I expect needs to be rotated, but didn't want to apply too much force.

Any codes?

Ordered these: Osram Xenarc Night Breaker 220, D3S, +220% More Brightness, Xenon Headlight Bulb, 66340XN2-2HB, Folding Box (2 Lamps)

When backing out my garage this morning I notice one of my headlights was orange. Surprised - I assumed that they would just die, not first change color. Anyone have recommendations on replacements and is the LED version a viable option? LED's typically blind oncoming traffic and unless that's no longer an issue I'll consider them.

One more thing - do I need an inner tie rod tool and if so, which one do you recommend? I have a tool for separating the outer tie rods.

It seems to be just a little worse - at the onset I've tried a lower gear but no change - it can get pretty severe and directly proportional to the torque applied when in the speed range (55 to 65 mph). If I'm steady at around 60 mph and accelerate the shake will start - can actually see the hood shake left to right. After noticing the wear on the inboard edge of the two front tires (see below linked thread) I'm suspecting its tie rods, so this weekend I'll get my wife to assist in jostling the steering wheel while I try to asses which tie rod it is (inner, outer, left, right) I will change both sides but if it's the outer I'll do both outers, unless I find a rubber boot was the root cause I'll rethink the need to do both sides. Now, I'm leaning towards going with Motorcraft unless someone can recommend anything better. In about 15K miles I'll be installing new tires and need this resolved by then.

Please add your Location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Not sure if its different on your model/year but if its the 3.5L with internal coolant pump then search the forum for the coolant change recommendations - later M/Y's may have addressed the issue?.

I'm not sure how they arrived at that recommendation, but my OBDLink MX+ BT works flawlessly with Windows FORScan and FORScanLite. I use the same adapter for my wife's BMW X5 and my BMW K1600. This adapter has very good reviews on a number of sites. OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner for iPhone, Android, and Windows

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What model? Please add your Model & Year to your profile signature - Settings - Ford Edge Forum

No that's not empty. The gauge and remaining miles should only be considered a rough estimate.

Did you run it empty before adding the 60L ? For the heated and cooled seats try a forum search.

Welcome. You may have to take it to a reputable mechanic that actually diagnoses it and tells you what's wrong and explains why it needs a new engine, IF that what's needed. If its mobile you could get it scanned for fault codes at a place like AutoZone, or get yourself an OBDII dongle and the free app Forscan to read the codes. "or can anybody tell me why this is happening?" - with the limited information you've provided there's no way someone could tell you what's happening.

That is standard practice for all manufacturers - they won't touch a "grey import".

Thanks @omar302 Yes, I have the Adaptive Steering - I definitely like the feel / function but also something I could live without.

Can't remember if my 2017 Sport has this - will check when I get home.