1004ron

A basic fairly cheap OBDII dongle and the free Forscan Lite is all that's needed to reliably scan for codes. Some places like Autozone have scan tools that can reliably read all Ford codes, but its hit and miss.

My next step would be to use Forsan to check for codes.

Its only recent years that DC clamp meters became available - is yours one of the later models that's DC capable?

It takes just one deep discharge to destroy a lead-acid battery, which a parasitic draw will do - thank goodness for Costco's good warranty cover, but they might not be so willing if the replacement is returned in a few days, so best disconnect the battery when the car is not in use until the parasitic draw is resolved.

Do a Google search for "how to find parasitic draw on car".

Not too sure of what's written but it sounds like I was right, a dead battery. While at Autozone have them put their battery tester on it which will display state of charge, CCA, Cranking Voltage and charging Voltage.

Battery appears to be past its useful life. Charge it and then take it to a place like Autozone for them to do a health check on it, free of charge. .

Expect you'll get an abundance of personal preferences presented - here's mine. I have Akebono on my Edge Sport and wife's BMW X5 and very happy with them, and the bonus is "no dust". https://www.akebonobrakes.com/domestic

And Model? - Part Number ? Have you measured the resistance/continuity of the heaters and confirmed voltage across them?

TOPDON is what I'd consider middle range - there's a few other brands that are cheaper and have good reviews.

The Fluke 77 was the top of the line multimeter when I got it in 1983 and it's still going strong, however that is not what I use to assess a battery's health for the reasons explained above.

A 600 CCA rated battery would be consider past its useful life long before the CCA drops anywhere as low as 10.0A The settled voltage of the battery is only an indication of its level of charge, not an indication of its health/CCA capacity. .

A volt meter is not a reliable test of a batteries health - its CCA ability.

Measure continuity of both O2 sensors heaters and if that's good confirm voltage across the heaters. What brand and model O2 sensors did you install?

Glad you got it resolved. I'm a puzzled by that comment - based on your own description the signs were there of a bad battery, and that's what I based my recommendations on. For the benefit of others, most auto/parts/accessory stores have test equipment that can reliably diagnose a bad battery, or even a battery is approaching end of life long before it presents a problem - they can also supply and fit a battery equal or better than the OEM at a price significantly lower than the dealership. Good quality testers can be bought on-line at a reasonable price and are real simple to use.

The tester that auto shops and many DIY'ers use does not require more skills than basic reading. TOPDON BT100 Car Battery Tester 12V Load Tester, 100-2000 CCA Automotive Alternator Tester Digital Auto Battery Analyzer Charging Cranking System Tester for Car Truck Motorcycle

Any explanation without testing would be a thumb-suck. Testing is what's needed, and the "Autozone" testing suggestion was meant to be an example of the service such stores offer, and most likely some in Canada do the same. A dead/discharged battery could be the symptom of a failed/failing battery or a parasitic drain or a charging system failure.

Get the battery and charging system checked at a place like Autozone - typically free of charge for the test.

Keep it to one thread. Use an OBDII dongle and Forscan to scan for codes.

No idea, never used a torque wrench on that. Turn it down until it bottoms out and that's it - its seals on the o-rings and doesn't need any torque for that.

@Jim thurber it's widely reported that most, if not all, 3rd party evap valves do not last as long as the OEM.