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See @omar302 response - BTW when I was looking for the door code my local dealership informed me that it was a lengthy process for them to contact Ford Corp with my proof of ownership.

Is that in addition to your 2011?

Is that VIN for the vehicle in your signature? 2024 Ford Edge VIN 2FMPK4K96RBA03469 from USA | Auction Dec 25, 2025 Got to wonder who would put that ugly keypad on a 2019 or 2024 model that came with the LED type seen in the below YouTube video.

Share what you researched and post a photo of what you're visually seeing.

Welcome. I suggest scanning for stored fault codes using Forscan or some places like AutoZone can do it free of charge, although Forscan is the more reliable option. Being a 2020 model do you know if the compressor has a clutch or is it the variable displacement type compressor?

Here's one that meets your description: MEVOTECH CTXMS401247 TTX; Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint More Information for MEVOTECH CTXMS401247 2019 FORD EDGE 2.7L V6 Turbocharged Control Arm | RockAuto

@nicole1985 it sounds like a problem with the Air Distribution Door Actuator. The parts aren't expensive but need fair DIY skills - I estimate a shop would charge around $300 for parts and labour.

I can't be sure that its the same as my 2.7L but I recently replaced both front CV axles and didn't lose any fluid.

If his sig is still accurate it's a 2019 Edge ST

You guys had me go back and check my window sticker which confirms my assumptions are wrong regarding the 21" wheels being standard for the Sport and ST.

After trying a couple of other brands I'm now back on the 21-inch Pirelli Pzeros and will be sticking with them for all round performance and mileage . I'm surprised, I thought all Sport and ST's standard equipment was 21".

A photo from the front in the dark would be good.

@WillM any codes?

+1 on @Samurai Edge comment. Another thing to consider is the shoddy job the previous owner did could be rusting beneath the poorly applied Bondo - this is most likely the reason for the "+ is for "unforeseen difficulties"".

As you've already deduced, it's not a mere dent removal needed - it will need all the badly applied Bondo ground out, prepped, primed and painted.

I'm also not into the Frankenstein idea - I went with like for like from Centric just because of the higher carbon content.

When my 2017 Sport developed a vibration when starting to brake at speeds around 60 to 80 mph. I suspected warped front rotors and the dial gauge confirmed runout was > 2 thou - no deposit buildup. Tried drilled and slotted rotors and then settled on the Centric High Carbon plain rotors and they're still doing fine after many thousand miles. The brake performance is superb and see no point in upgrades, other than things like Akebono low/zero dust pads.

tarekdata Hacked and banned.

When looking to purchase a battery tester look for one with the heavy/robust clamps, the type seen on the photo of the TOPDON.

$15 and its yours. Yes I have PayPal - send me your details and address by PM/DM. The link to Amazon has a description of how the switch is used. The main reason why I no longer use it is because I mainly use portable devices that don't have USB and the need to use the switch at certain times. .

I'm not sure about that one. This is one I have but no longer use - it needed to be switch between the two bus speeds but does work - I'd let it go to a good home for the mail costs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY?th=1

A basic fairly cheap OBDII dongle and the free Forscan Lite is all that's needed to reliably scan for codes. Some places like Autozone have scan tools that can reliably read all Ford codes, but its hit and miss.

My next step would be to use Forsan to check for codes.

Its only recent years that DC clamp meters became available - is yours one of the later models that's DC capable?