1004ron

Today I installed the RH CV Axle. The only battle I had was extracting the axle - all YT videos show smacking the inner joint with a hammer - I even went to Lowes to get a heavier hammer, and that didn't work - see the section of all-thread and nut in the photos - I cut a length of all-thread to fit snugly between the inner joint and a bolt head on the PTU, then holding it with a pliers I backed the nut out and as it reached the end of its thread the axle was free to extract - way better than beating on it. The I noticed the friction material had come off the outboard brake pad - went to Autozone and got a set of new pads - found the same thing on the LH. The LH CV Axle cured the vibration but I could still just a little at exactly 60mph with acceleration - that is gone now. The inner joint on the RH axle had similar wear divots, just not as deep - the lubricant didn't run out like oil as was the case with the LH, but it looked an odd brown color.

Pity the oncoming drivers that will be blinded using LED's in the low beams.

Welcome. What you've written doesn't give us much to work with and suggest a fix and based on what you've written it doesn't look like you DIY. Any suggestions here we expect that you'll convey to what appears to be an inept "mechanic" which isn't ideal - it would be far better to seek the services of a local reputable real mechanic.

Wonder what's behind Ford switching from the 75-140 to 75-85 for the PTU ?

I've searched and contemplated switching but have stuck with the OEM trans fluid because of the mixed responses I found. This is what I was considering: Valvoline Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid

New CV Axle installed and a trip on the interstate confirms that was the issue all this time. Much easier job than the control arm replacement and with that said I might just go ahead and replace the right side. The old inner joint felt just a little rough and the reason can be seen in the photos - also the lube appeared to be gear oil, not a grease, or maybe it was grease when it started out.

@omar302 I haven't compared the in-out play between the driver's vs passenger side. The installed and the new driver's side does have some in-out play on the inboard joint which I accepted as normal. I'll be installing the new CV Axle this evening or tomorrow and will clean, examine and report on what I find with the inboard joint. Here's another report that makes me fairly confident that the CV Axle is my long ongoing issue. Car Vibration When Accelerating: Suspect Your CV Joint - HubPages .

No.

I don't think that the PTU can be ruled out - there's some influence on the CV Axle when turning the steering - it's going to take some exploration to clearly identify the noise source. I've got one of those "exploration" problems on my 2017 Sport - vibration when accelerating at speeds around 60mph - changed the control arm, that wasn't it - this weekend I'll be replacing the CV Axle.

This video is exactly what I'm encountering - CV axle should be delivered next week and I'll install it on the weekend.

Is your photo the rear wiper spray nozzle?

Welcome. rear camera on 2013 Edge - Google Search

The fact that you're using "mechanic 1 & 2" suggests that you don't DIY, so I'd suggest that you find a reputable real mechanic to perform diagnostics and repair - a real mechanic would more likely solve the issue and cost less than #1 and #2. There's a multitude of potential causes for a "crank no start" and without more info and fault codes all folks here would be guessing, and then to pass those "guesses" onto #1 and #2 would be futile. How on earth did #1 think that a low oil pressure switch would prevent it from starting??????

I've bought them from eBay and had no issues with them. With the later models such as yours the vehicle will auto-learn the new sensors and their location after a few miles - you can also get a $10 trigger device and put your vehicle in learn mode and trigger each wheel. 4X Tire Pressure Sensor OEM F2GZ1A189AB I've also bought from Amazon with no issues. TPMS Tire Pressure Sensors 315MHz

Do you suspect this is related to the serpentine belt? Best buy an OBDII dongle and use the free app Forscan Lite to read and reset the codes - Autozone can also do this free of charge. What's the coolant temp gauge showing? If the coolant issue is unresolved, you won't be able to reset the code.

Any chance you could post a photo of the bad coil? If it burnt up, I'd suspect that the spark plug isn't seated properly and leaking hot combustion gas.

Welcome. I would focus on the cause of the failed fairly new coil pack. You talk of the coil pack and then mention the injector - I'm guessing it's not direct injection but puzzled by the mention of the injector. Where were these purchased? - many counterfeit versions of these on the market.

New control arm was delivered this afternoon and its installed. Examining the old control arm bushes and ball-joint I'd say its in perfect serviceable condition. The job is a real challenge and my advice is don't tackle this on your own in your garage - at least have a friend work with you and better still have a shop lift. The bolts were SUPER tight - had to use a makeshift extension to my long breaker bar. It is really difficult to get the bushes engaged and the ball joint. The drive shaft popped out and spilt a little more than half a quart - I just let it dribble into an oil pan while I manipulated the control arm into place. Tomorrow I'll take it for a drive to get the tans temps up and then top up the fluid - not expecting any change to the shimmy shake, but if it has resolved it I'll be very happy. Now I'm thinking possibly the strut bearing?

New original equipment tires, Pirelli installed on Monday at Costco - no change in the shimmy shake, but significantly quieter than the Bridgestone that were on.

Recently occasionally when I back out my garage then turn the wheel full lock to the right to move down my driveway I've heard and felt a soft knock on the left front. I have all my wrenching life avoiding the use of the "Parts Cannon", but that's about to change. I suspected the left lower control arm bushes or ball joint so a couple of days ago I took a closer look at them, also used a pry bar to see if I could invoke some movement, but none - the inspection method used is flawed in that the control arm is in a taught position with the suspension fully extended. I've ordered a new Fomoco control arm for $213 delivered, that might arrive in time for installation this weekend or it'll be the next weekend.