1004ron

The fact that you're using "mechanic 1 & 2" suggests that you don't DIY, so I'd suggest that you find a reputable real mechanic to perform diagnostics and repair - a real mechanic would more likely solve the issue and cost less than #1 and #2. There's a multitude of potential causes for a "crank no start" and without more info and fault codes all folks here would be guessing, and then to pass those "guesses" onto #1 and #2 would be futile. How on earth did #1 think that a low oil pressure switch would prevent it from starting??????

I've bought them from eBay and had no issues with them. With the later models such as yours the vehicle will auto-learn the new sensors and their location after a few miles - you can also get a $10 trigger device and put your vehicle in learn mode and trigger each wheel. 4X Tire Pressure Sensor OEM F2GZ1A189AB I've also bought from Amazon with no issues. TPMS Tire Pressure Sensors 315MHz

Do you suspect this is related to the serpentine belt? Best buy an OBDII dongle and use the free app Forscan Lite to read and reset the codes - Autozone can also do this free of charge. What's the coolant temp gauge showing? If the coolant issue is unresolved, you won't be able to reset the code.

Any chance you could post a photo of the bad coil? If it burnt up, I'd suspect that the spark plug isn't seated properly and leaking hot combustion gas.

Welcome. I would focus on the cause of the failed fairly new coil pack. You talk of the coil pack and then mention the injector - I'm guessing it's not direct injection but puzzled by the mention of the injector. Where were these purchased? - many counterfeit versions of these on the market.

New control arm was delivered this afternoon and its installed. Examining the old control arm bushes and ball-joint I'd say its in perfect serviceable condition. The job is a real challenge and my advice is don't tackle this on your own in your garage - at least have a friend work with you and better still have a shop lift. The bolts were SUPER tight - had to use a makeshift extension to my long breaker bar. It is really difficult to get the bushes engaged and the ball joint. The drive shaft popped out and spilt a little more than half a quart - I just let it dribble into an oil pan while I manipulated the control arm into place. Tomorrow I'll take it for a drive to get the tans temps up and then top up the fluid - not expecting any change to the shimmy shake, but if it has resolved it I'll be very happy. Now I'm thinking possibly the strut bearing?

New original equipment tires, Pirelli installed on Monday at Costco - no change in the shimmy shake, but significantly quieter than the Bridgestone that were on.

Recently occasionally when I back out my garage then turn the wheel full lock to the right to move down my driveway I've heard and felt a soft knock on the left front. I have all my wrenching life avoiding the use of the "Parts Cannon", but that's about to change. I suspected the left lower control arm bushes or ball joint so a couple of days ago I took a closer look at them, also used a pry bar to see if I could invoke some movement, but none - the inspection method used is flawed in that the control arm is in a taught position with the suspension fully extended. I've ordered a new Fomoco control arm for $213 delivered, that might arrive in time for installation this weekend or it'll be the next weekend.

Congrats. From the same dealer and with the same maintenance package serviced by them?

The free flow air filters obviously allow more damaging particulate to pass through which is the most significant factor for me, but many are misled by the claims of increased power. There are other components that dictate the maximum air the engine can ingest.

Welcome. 14.8v seems a little high. When you replaced the battery did you reset the BMS (Battery Monitoring System)? It could also be a parasitic drain - do a search for that and you'll find a few good YouTube videos on how. Places like AutoZone have testers that check the CCA, Cranking Voltage, and Charge rates - have them do that.

His would be the 2.7L V6 Twin Turbo. I did my serpentine belt kit (belt, idler and tensioner) at 103K miles and would say that 100K miles is a good interval for this.

YES Try fixing the caps-lock.

This video describes what I'm experiencing.

From what you describe I'm guessing yours was evident at specific speeds - mine is only there at a specifc speed range (55 - 65 mph) AND accelerating - light throttle just cruising at any speed has zero vobration. Tomorrow (11/1/25) around noon I'll have new tires on but don't expect any change to this issue. On Saturday afternoon or Sunday I'll get in up on four jack-stands, and front wheels off, then scrutinize all potential areas such as the lower control arm buses - if its that I get the complete lower control arms. Should I stick with Motorcraft or are Moog and Mevotech acceptable? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2017,edge,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3434543,suspension,control+arm,10401

Welcome. It's the first I hear of this here on the forum, so makes me question the diagnostics that led to all those parts being replaced - might want to consider a different mechanic/service shop.

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Compared to the two other brands I've tried after the original set wore out, I decided liked the originals best for all season performance and tread life. I've had tires installed at Costco with no issues, but thanks for reminding me about the potential damage to the Ford lug nuts - I just recently installed the new set that I got when the dealership destroyed them at the 5K mile service (had them on the shelf all this time). I'll insist that impact wrenches not be used.

Welcome. What alternator brand and where did you purchase it? Non-OEM alternators are widely reported here to be incompatible with the vehicles computer charging controls - check the post directly above yours. .

Ordered new tires at Costco for installation on 8th November 2025. Price was pretty good. The "W" speed rating version are $170 more than the "S" - I confirmed from my photos that the original tires were the "S" rating so that what I went with, and the fact that the Sport and myself aren't going to get anywhere near the speed rating of the "W".

Best check the owner's manual for the transmission fluid change interval. In extreme operating conditions such as towing etc. the recommended transmission fluid change interval is 30K miles, and for normal use 150K miles. Question, what is the motivation for the dealerships suggesting transmission fluid changes at such lower mileage? If there's fluid found on the floor or anywhere outside the transmission make sure you have written records that you've addressed this with the dealership for them to resolve - doesn't matter whether they messed oil or overfilled it, it's their issue - there could be further issues like seals etc.

About 5 years ago I switched all my vehicles over to Amsoil SVG. I did this based on the widespread independent reviews that included lab results.

That would be a tough call for me - I would prefer a remanufactured from a place like Jasper for $500 - $6000 but with that cost being 70% + the value of the car is where I'd have a hard time, and this might have me consider a cheaper fix and plan for a replacement vehicle in the near future. Ford V6 3.5 EcoBoost | 3.5 Duratec | 3.7 Duratec | JASPER® Engines & Transmissions

What's in that kit is what I'd call a "refresh" not a "rebuild". What's the mileage? Locked up due to lack of bearing lubricant would also damage the crank and would need machining or at least polishing, then what about pistons and rings? A used motor with similar mileage would likely soon need a rebuild?

The only part I'd like to change is the one around the cup holders. A good decal would work from me.