1004ron

Most dealerships I know don't have transmission experts employed. My guess is that this dealership wanted to make a buck or two off the Ford warranty or 3rd party insurance. It would be better to get a rebuilt unit from a transmission specialist company.

@marekrbk any chance you have the service manual for the 2017 Edge? I have a fragmented one and its incomplete in some areas.

Tires have 11K miles on them and no sign of wear. I bought Chassis Ears and took it for a drive. Both front wheels signals got very noisy between 40 and 60 mph - all this time I've thought it was from the rear, and because of that I got my wife to drive while I sat in the cargo space in the back and it was completely quiet. My wife from the get go believed it was coming from the front. I'm ordering replacement wheel bearings for the front only at this time.

With everything you've done my thoughts turn to bad CV axles.

Does that mean that the new wheel bearings didn't resolve the "thump, thump" ?

I recommend the next step be to scan for fault codes using something reliable like Forscan ?

Two weeks ago I stopped at the dealership on the way home from work and they promised that a mobile mechanic would contact me and inspect the car at my work place - that didn't happen so I stopped this afternoon and unlike previous recalls where they gave me the parts and marked it as complete, they wanted me to leave the car there for a day some time next week. I asked if they had the camera in stock and they weren't sure so I headed to the parts folks and they said there's no stock and likely only have stock in Feb 2027 - they quoted $112.45 I just bought one online for $75 and will install it myself. Part number looks the same as the old one seen in the photo above. Old: F2GZ19G490-AD New: F2GZ19G490-A Even if its identical I'm not too concerned seeing as it will last beyond the date I plan to sell the Edge.

I don't understand what that bold part has to do with the discussion in this thread, i.e. what is the best option to use for this specific vehicle.

@Samurai Edge in this case the Owner's Manual specification has been superseded as mentioned by @dabangsta and this was due to research and development by Ford to reduce the risk of this V6 engine with its internal coolant pump. Ford also revised the fluid for my 2017 V6 which doesn't have the risk of the internal coolant pump, and that's what I stick with. There's certain fluids and lubricants that I use Non-OEM such as brake fluid, engine oil, RDU and PTU oil, and some that I stick with the OEM such as the coolant where we don't have the specific chemical composition and the reason for Ford's revision.

@NzP what exactly do you mean by that - are you a trained and qualified mechanic?

Could you tell us what brand and specific type of premixed coolant you intend using? .

I would start by testing the battery health and then test for parasitic drain - I have had my 2017 Sport go four weeks without the need to keep it on a tender, but don't know what the max time would be. The solar panel on the dashboard will work - just need to find a connection inside the cabin that is always hot. I wouldn't consider any recommendations/suggestion from the type of person that disputes the moon landing.

@NzP That's a whole lot of unnecessary work removing the thermostat. The typical home size compressor can provide the pressure but not the volume needed to displace the coolant residing in the engine block - I used a leak blower which was more successful but also cant remove all the coolant. Flushing with distilled water and then adding concentrate to account for the remaining distilled water in the block is a more effective option.

You could use a drop shipping company. Buy from US ship to Germany | Free US Address

@Cossie you could attempt to make a similar "baffle" from aluminum replication the white plastic one seen on the original pan. Also, what about running with a slightly higher oil level, like an additional 500ml? Are you using the original dipstick?

@thesavo I hope your issue is resolved with the wheel bearing replacement. The symptoms you describe "thump,thump,thump,thump" aren't what I've encountered with a bad wheel bearing. Could it be that the typical early signs of whine/drone were there for a considerable time before the thumping noise?

@thesavo I may have missed it, but did you confirm that the wheel bearing was bad once it was removed?

No, there isn't.

I feel your pain. It's understandable that a forum like this with free membership is reliant on income from ads, but there should be a balance. It is totally impossible to use this forum on a mobile device and expect that there's many like me that have given up trying.

Welcome. The only suggestion I have is to use an auto-switching type of adapter instead of the elm327 manual switch adaptor. I recommend this: OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner

Welcome. What's the mileage on your Edge and what type of issues have you encountered?

@STBEAST I estimate that you have two or more years left on your original battery. My recommendation is to get a battery health tester or take it to a place like Autozone at least once a year to test the battery and that will give you advanced notice of when replacement is due before you experience a slow crank. Then search the forum for the option to upsize the battery and reset the BMS when a new battery is installed.

@marekrbk thanks for you prompt reply. I got out my black&white hard copy and its virtually identical and can most certainly be used for the US version - I'll definitely be using this colour copy whenever I have the need - thanks. .

Welcome and thank you for that. Do you think it's much the same as the US 2017? If not, is there any chance you could post the wiring schematics for the US 2017?

Welcome. Try a search on one of these websites using your VIN and see what that specifies. https://www.ford.com/parts https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/