1004ron

Could you tell us what brand and specific type of premixed coolant you intend using? .

I would start by testing the battery health and then test for parasitic drain - I have had my 2017 Sport go four weeks without the need to keep it on a tender, but don't know what the max time would be. The solar panel on the dashboard will work - just need to find a connection inside the cabin that is always hot. I wouldn't consider any recommendations/suggestion from the type of person that disputes the moon landing.

@NzP That's a whole lot of unnecessary work removing the thermostat. The typical home size compressor can provide the pressure but not the volume needed to displace the coolant residing in the engine block - I used a leak blower which was more successful but also cant remove all the coolant. Flushing with distilled water and then adding concentrate to account for the remaining distilled water in the block is a more effective option.

You could use a drop shipping company. Buy from US ship to Germany | Free US Address

@Cossie you could attempt to make a similar "baffle" from aluminum replication the white plastic one seen on the original pan. Also, what about running with a slightly higher oil level, like an additional 500ml? Are you using the original dipstick?

@thesavo I hope your issue is resolved with the wheel bearing replacement. The symptoms you describe "thump,thump,thump,thump" aren't what I've encountered with a bad wheel bearing. Could it be that the typical early signs of whine/drone were there for a considerable time before the thumping noise?

@thesavo I may have missed it, but did you confirm that the wheel bearing was bad once it was removed?

No, there isn't.

I feel your pain. It's understandable that a forum like this with free membership is reliant on income from ads, but there should be a balance. It is totally impossible to use this forum on a mobile device and expect that there's many like me that have given up trying.

Welcome. The only suggestion I have is to use an auto-switching type of adapter instead of the elm327 manual switch adaptor. I recommend this: OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner

Welcome. What's the mileage on your Edge and what type of issues have you encountered?

@STBEAST I estimate that you have two or more years left on your original battery. My recommendation is to get a battery health tester or take it to a place like Autozone at least once a year to test the battery and that will give you advanced notice of when replacement is due before you experience a slow crank. Then search the forum for the option to upsize the battery and reset the BMS when a new battery is installed.

@marekrbk thanks for you prompt reply. I got out my black&white hard copy and its virtually identical and can most certainly be used for the US version - I'll definitely be using this colour copy whenever I have the need - thanks. .

Welcome and thank you for that. Do you think it's much the same as the US 2017? If not, is there any chance you could post the wiring schematics for the US 2017?

Welcome. Try a search on one of these websites using your VIN and see what that specifies. https://www.ford.com/parts https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/

You could look at the suggestions in the below thread, but it looks like you'll need a new APIM.

@Wubster100 I think you missed that in the wall of text.

This video shows the location:

My 2017 Edge Factory and Extended warranty ran out some time back, so don't expect there'd be any warranty cover remaining on a 2016 model. Some used car sales places offer some warranty but its usually very limited cover and very short duration. The vehicle under discussion may have had some 3rd party service and repairs done to the entertainment system. Not enough information offered by @CassieB1990 to offer any reliable advice.

Who did you purchase the vehicle from?

Thanks for updating. What do you think caused the wiring to deteriorate like that?

My advice would be to use a reliable scanner like Forscan as a first step in the diagnostics, and monitor the O2 and fuel trim data.

Welcome. The smell of rotten eggs comes from the CAT which only happens when un-burnt fuel get into the CAT which is a sign of an ignition or injector issue. If its been going on for a while you may need new CAT's by now but address the fuel issue first or the new CAT's will be toast in a short time. The fact that its getting in to the cabin is a secondary issue. Have you used a reliable scanner such as Forscan to check for codes?

Is this one of the models where Ford did away with the aesthetic / acoustic cover?

Is this your own vehicle and if so have you noticed any performance impact at the onset of the noise? As a test you could run it with the serpentine belt removed.