1004ron

Welcome. You could use the below website to see if the 275's will work - need your rims width. https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=255&aspect=50&diameter=19&wheelwidth=9&offset=37&width2=315&aspect2=35&wheel_size=20&wheel_width=11&offset2=28

The A/C does not control or respond to the outside air temperature indication. The outside air temperature sensor is in the air intake duct, and it will typically be warmer under the hood and cool down when the vehicle is moving.

Thanks for that @Haz My first thoughts were excessive toe in caused the inside edge wear, but the Ford doc states inside edge wear is caused by toe out. Reading Tire Wear Patterns

"measure from the center of the wheel (hub) to the center of the fender opening. " Where do you measure the ride height? The above is what I've always used but the values listed in the document attached aren't anywhere near this. Front 2.24 inch Rear 1.35 inch

Thanks @omar302 , agree they should be the same but will ask @Haz to confirm for my 2017 Sport.

Reviving an old thread because the description is similar to what I've noticed on my 2017 Sport. I haven't rotated tires for quite some time and this past weekend I notice wear in the inboard edge of both front tires - other than that all four are wearing very evenly. See photos of the right front wheel. What's your thoughts on the cause? Also, where can I find the alignment spec for my 2017 Sport? Also, my work colleague races his Corvette and just sold his string alignment kit and bought the Gyraline Alignment kit which he says he's very happy with - any first hand experience here?

A few days ago fairly deep water on the road caught me by surprise - I checked under the car to see if any of the flimsy splash guards were damaged but saw nothing. Today while doing an oil change I notice a small plastic shield was damaged - I've used epoxy and thin wire to get it back together but would like to know the part number and price. Ping @Haz

Read @Haz post above and note section "AWD Control And Fault Indicators". That should give you an indication the coupling, which I'm guessing you refer to as "actuator".

Depends on which Model/Year you have. Please add your Model & Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

The only common problem that I can think of with these engines is the internal coolant pump leaking coolant into the oil - that would also result in a low oil pressure (cant pump the water). What's the oil look like?

Welcome. The low oil pressure will make the Variable Valve Timing inactive and throw the codes that you have. The low oil pressure and noise you describe makes me think the engine is trashed. What's the mileage? What's the service history, oil change interval? What oil and oil filter used?

I'll repeat what @enigma-2 asked in the post you quoted, what exactly is yours doing? See the below post on how I reset mine:

Welcome. Use your OBDII dongle with the free app FORScan Lite and scan for codes.

If you're asking what CCA means, then I doubt that you had the battery properly tested. If you take it to a place like AutoZone they'll do a battery health check and report the Cold Crank Amps and how it compares to the new battery rating. So tell us, how did you check the battery?

Read the stored error codes, or have them read at a place like AutoZone and report back what they are. Also, before posting again please add your Year & Model model to your signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

@bscott94 my Costco battery lasted about the length of the warranty and that's why I decided to go with the Everstart AGM. Edit: Gone are the days when Costco batteries were high quality with the best replacement warranty around.

Because there's so many conflicting reports on the use of MaxLife in Fords I err on the side of caution and stick with Mercon LV. Also it's not a huge saving with the MaxLife considering how infrequent we change the trans fluid. I know MacT uses the MaxLife. Valvoline Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid 1 GA, Case of 3  $51.00

Anyone here use MaxLife?

The thread that @Wubster100 posted addresses the open position height adjustment, but yours is behaving as if there's an obstruction and that triggers it to drive closed. See if you can move the tailgate further open by hand. On the last page of that thread is the reset that worked for my height adjustment using FORScan - worth trying that.

What oil and oil filter have you been using? What oil change interval have you been using? I ask those questions because the P0012 and P0299 are typically the result of oil sludge due to lack of maintenance. The P0012 could be the unqualified "mechanic" who did the "Timing Set" got the valve timing off, or sludge has fouled the Variable Valve Timing solenoid. The P0299 is related to the turbo - poor maintenance could also be the cause of that. Again, find yourself a reputable qualified mechanic.

I find it somewhat puzzling - the front bearing support bracket was mentioned as problematic - correcting the bracket with the old drive shaft still had the noise. A new driveshaft resulted in no more noise - so was it a problem driveshaft all along?

Thanks for the confirmation. The clear lens is actually glued, just a whole lot better than the original. I highly doubt that you would have been able to remove the lens from the new one without destroying it.

Got to ask, what made you decide against removal of the lens from the new light?

Good job. Agree, removal of the spoiler isn't easy and I had to pause a couple of times to make sure I was doing the right thing, but in the end all it took was a little more brute force than what I was trying in the beginning.

@jacobson has the same gen as mine, and you suggested he purchase a Dorman off eBay and pop the lens off. I bought and installed the Dorman and that is why I commented: "Having done the replacement myself, your comment makes me think that you haven't tried what you're suggesting."