1004ron

That would be a tough call for me - I would prefer a remanufactured from a place like Jasper for $500 - $6000 but with that cost being 70% + the value of the car is where I'd have a hard time, and this might have me consider a cheaper fix and plan for a replacement vehicle in the near future. Ford V6 3.5 EcoBoost | 3.5 Duratec | 3.7 Duratec | JASPER® Engines & Transmissions

What's in that kit is what I'd call a "refresh" not a "rebuild". What's the mileage? Locked up due to lack of bearing lubricant would also damage the crank and would need machining or at least polishing, then what about pistons and rings? A used motor with similar mileage would likely soon need a rebuild?

The only part I'd like to change is the one around the cup holders. A good decal would work from me.

I'd like to see what you guys go with and where to get it - it was a major distraction when I first bought the car, the reflections of trees and buildings in the piano black.

@Ivan You got any photos?

Welcome. Could you post a photo of the oil cap you're referring to. It would be best to take a look and confirm where the leak is coming from.

Welcome. Sure gets good reviews - Amazon.com: XTOOL D7 Bidirectional OBD2 Scanner: 2025 Scan Tool with ECU Coding, Full System Car Scanner Diagnostic Tool, 36+ Resets, Injector Coding, Throttle Relearn, Crank Sensor Relearn, FCA, CANFD & DoIP : Automotive I haven't tried it but expect the free Forscan app should have that capability. Please add the details you have in your profile to your signature - Settings - Ford Edge Forum .

It would be best to assess the likelihood of coolant intrusion before spending money on parts and labor and then we can move this thread to the one discussing that. A simple test that places like AutoZone can do, is to sniff for combustion gases in the cooling system - the thread on coolant intrusion has more details on the testing. Don't expect you'll see white smoke from the exhaust with the intrusion issue. .

Understood.

explorerrob with the coolant leaking into the oil sump you won't see white smoke out the exhaust.

In my opinion there would be no clunking if the splines were in good condition regardless of the axle nut torque. I expect the permanent solution to be "The only remedy would be to replace the axle/shaft and inspect the wheel hub/bearing for similar spline damage which would most likely also need replacement". https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2017,edge,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3434543,drivetrain,cv+axle,2288 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2017,edge,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3434543,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub,1636 As far as warranty goes, you would need to loosen the nuts again for them to witness the fault condition and hope that they don't mask the issue but merely torquing the nuts.

If the effect of Re-torquing the axle nut is short lived, it suggests that the splines are worn, possibly due to lack of spline lube during installation and/or the axle nut not being torqued properly. The only remedy would be to replace the axle/shaft and inspect the hub for similar spline damage which would most likely also need replacement.

These work well in tight spots. Amazon.com: Radiator Hose Clamp Pliers Automotive – Corrosion-Resistant Hose Clamp Tool with Non-Slip Polymer Coating, Tension & Ratchet Locking Mechanisms – Easy to Use, Time-Saving for Car Repairs : Automotive

I paid for a map update from Ford and it trashed the routing making it unusable for me, but this no longer bothers me as I wouldn't switch from Waze and would never pay Ford for a map update again. Also, the traffic from Sirius expired after 5 years making the Ford navigation even more useless. I also did a Sync and map update using CyanLabs - Free, but the map routing was still unreliable. CyanLabs - Ford Guides, Syn3 Updater and much more!

There's no real engineering reason for me to favor one over the other, and I've haven't sent either used samples off for lab analysis, and my more frequent than usual oil changes there's no way that the oil has time/miles to deteriorate. Going by the abundance of good reviews, some with lab results, I'd be confident with both those brands.

I guess the frequent failures will also be ignored.

Not when it fails just outside the warranty.

kwcard01 This account was hacked and banned.

My lawnmower has a belt driven overhead camshaft running in engine oil - bought 11 years ago and still going strong - makes me think belts in oil isn't a real issue.

That's all looking good - battery isn't new, but not near replacement time. The settling voltage of 12.23V is possibly an indication of a parasitic draw - I'd do a test for that - many YT vids on that. Doesn't explain the intermittent operational issues - that may need expert diagnostics and probably need to to misbehave at the time.

I'm guessing that tester has the same capabilities as mine, which is the CCA, Cranking Amps, and Charging System - if so the best to perform all those tests. Odd that the CCA will drop that much from Aug to Sept ?? The settling voltage is lower than it should be - good reason to use the tester for charging rate. 12.23V is about 65% charged.

Try this post:

All that's needed is an O-ring - the size number is found in the thread linked above. No way that the bolts are "one time use".

Would it only be a gasket that's needed to pull and re-install the dummy cooler plug?

Welcome. As a starting point its best to scan it for codes. Was any diagnostics done that led to all the parts replacement?