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BTW, this started recently when the windshield installer ran the battery flat, so it's really puzzling that it can't be reset to work as it did prior to that event.

After bumping my head a few times and my wife deciding that the full open isn't what it used to be, I need to to figure out if its the gas filled strut on the right side or the electric actuator on the left side, or should I just order both. I've already replaced the gas struts on the hood. Edit: I propped up the tailgate and detached each in turn and find that the right side gas strut fully extends and takes some force to compress a little but no way of knowing if its doing so with enough force. I hit the button with the actuator top connection disconnected and it travels hard to the fully extended position and to the closed position, but because its not seeing the closed limit it drives fully extended. With everything connected I drive the tailgate open assisting with my hand and it still stops abruptly short of the fully up position. So that leaves me with buying parts without a concise diagnostics, which goes against the grain - I think I'll start with the right side gas strut, which is a whole lot easier to replace although my test mentioned above would suggest that's not the issue.

Longer bigger gear selector?

NGK 6 is hotter than NGK 7. NGK.com: Heat Range Conversion Chart

You are correct, as usual. The battery age reported is correct at 15 days, and the state of charge is 84% 14 of the 15 days was spent in the airport surface parking lot. I haven't looked at changing the code to suit the AGM, and might just leave it where its at.

Yes, that's correct, you need to add it to your signature because the owners of this forum are too lazy or dumb to correct the reason why the profile details do not show. .

Is there a list of what's upgraded in the PTU shown in the video, or is it only the thermal shield?

Please add your Model and Year to your profile signature, and location - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I did this a couple of weeks ago and its a major improvement - now they are actually capable of being considered puddle lights.

Thanks omar302 Checking the screenshot on my phone, it looks like I had the correct PID, now to check this again in two weeks when I return from my trip abroad.

Is there any change required to the front/rear proportioning valves when changing the rotor specs? I ask because on one of my vehicles the manufacturer brought out a recall/campaign upgrade to the front rotors and callipers and included was two new proportioning valves.

omar302 Could you tell me exactly which PID value you were looking at for the battery state of charge, and if this is only available in Forscan full version or also on Forscan Lite. I used my iPhone and Forscan Lite to access what I think was the battery charge state. Also keen to know if there's any specific BMS selection better suited to the AGM. I won't be able to check it for two weeks - its parked at the airport while I'm in Korea. Got a fantastic rental, a G80 Genesis - fantastic luxury car.

After a couple of trips with the new battery mine is showing 96% .

Thanks @omar302 This morning when I connected my laptop to change the battery config as you suggested above, and it was taking me longer to get Forscan to communicate with the OBDLink MX+ and with that I got the battery low warning, and that's after it was on the tender overnight. Decided its time for a new one, so the quickest was to buy one from Walmart - I got the H6 AGM Platinum for $178.00 - it gets good reviews online. The Interstate H6 bought from Costco lasted 3 years and 1 month, just out of warranty. With the new battery installed I first changed the type as above and then did a BMS reset. Note that the new AGM is 3kg (6.6 lb) heavier than the previous one. I paid the $12 for a years subscription to Forscan - feel it well worth it and the developers most certainly deserve the support. .

I measured the current position it stops in from the bottom of the latch and its 63", then if I move it by hand to its maximum travel its 73.5" My wife thinks its always been at this height, which I'm having difficulty believing that seeing that I'm 5' 7" (67") which means I would have bumped my head a few times by now. I found fuse #76 which is crazy to get at, and then couldn't access the BCM fuses - I have the small tray in that area and can't figure how to get it out without breaking something, so I just took the Batt Pos terminal off for 5mins again, and no change.

Thanks @Haz I tried the initialization procedure choosing to disconnect the battery, checked for codes with Forscan Lite, none found, and then used the front button - it went open to the same less than full open position. Also tried with the remote FOB, and same results. What is the RGTM self-test? DTC_2024-12-12_13:51:55.txt

So the new power struts are what got yours to lift all the way up?

Although the title state "Power" Liftgate some of the comments aren't related to the power option. Yesterday while the windshield installer was busy he ran the battery flat and all custom settings were lost and what I found today is the liftgate isn't lifting high enough and the isntructions in the Owners Manual aren't working for me. I can move it up by hand with no resistance another 8" and hold the button until it chimes, but next time its opened it goes back to the previous too low position. Anyone have any insight on what next to try?

I don't know why the Autel listed the HUD seeing as my Sport doesn't have that. My wife's BMW X5 has the HUD and I like it a lot, and might look at one that that @enigma-2 posted. The only issue I have with the HUD in my wife's car is that its very difficult to see when wearing polarized sunglasses. Also her windshield replacement costs a lot more for the HUD version, but that's what we have insurance for. .

Today the windshield installer left my lights ON in Aux Power mode for ages to the point that it cut out - I then put my 2.5 Amps charger on it and a while later when he wanted to connect the Autel device to in Aux Power mode, this time with the lights and AC unit off, it still cut out quicker than it should, but of course it didn't have much time to charge since the first event. I started looking at a replacement and decided I'd go with an AGM H6 this time, but after getting it fully charged my battery tester says that its still 100% healthy so I'll hold off on the replacement for now. This is what I'll go with next time: ACDelco Gold Automotive AGM Batteries 88864541 $167.00

Thanks @Haz As I walked out to my driveway when the installer returned I found the metal clip that he was adamant wasn't installed - he apologized. We spent a long time on the phone with Autel and their response was that they've got to install a new windshield because the mirror/camera mounting must be wrong. I prompted that we repeat the calibration process using the Autel because I suspected that he did not follow the procedure correctly previously - after about 10 to 15 minutes on the road the fault on the dash cleared and the Autel said calibration completed successfully. See photo of the rain sensor clip installed.

I tried the calibration procedure with Forscan Lite but was unsuccessful - waiting for the installer now with his Autel - starting to think he forgot to connect it.

Got a call early this morning confirming that the installer is on his way with an OEM windshield. It's installed and the installer just left after taking it on the road for the camera calibration and when I turned on the car it gave a warning that the calibration still needs to be done - he's on his way back with his Autel device. The installer pointed out that the chrome retainer for the rain sensor was missing - obviously lost by AutoLite - @Haz could you help with a part number for this retaining clip? Wondering if I should try the recalibration with Forscan - is that even possible?

Last week my windshield was damaged by a rock on the same road I71 and I used the Erie insurance app on my phone to initiate a replacement. The Erie app steers you to SafeLite for the replacement but I went with Rite-Way after my past experience with SafeLite. The installer arrived at my home this morning and I noticed it was non-OEM glass made in China, so I put it on hold. It sounds like the insurance limits the cost to around $800 and requires special approval if it exceeds that amount - I'm waiting to hear back from them on that, but looks like I might need to pay in to go with OEM glass.

I've done updates twice with CyanLabs. What will this Hack do for me, or how do I use it once hacked?