1004ron

Thanks for the confirmation. The clear lens is actually glued, just a whole lot better than the original. I highly doubt that you would have been able to remove the lens from the new one without destroying it.

Got to ask, what made you decide against removal of the lens from the new light?

Good job. Agree, removal of the spoiler isn't easy and I had to pause a couple of times to make sure I was doing the right thing, but in the end all it took was a little more brute force than what I was trying in the beginning.

@jacobson has the same gen as mine, and you suggested he purchase a Dorman off eBay and pop the lens off. I bought and installed the Dorman and that is why I commented: "Having done the replacement myself, your comment makes me think that you haven't tried what you're suggesting."

Welcome. If you're not a DIY person and reliant on service shops, then search for a reputable shop because the mechanic you've been using is obviously not qualified and throwing parts at it. When you say that it struggles going uphill - is the engine revving high but not changing up to the next gear - the engine revving high should deliver more power until it reaches maximum revs - maybe a video of what's happening will give us a better idea. Get the stored fault codes read and post them here.

@chr8990 My schedule is much the same. • Oil - Full Synthetic (5k) - same • Brake Fluid (40K) - 2 years • Transmission Flush (30K) - 45K • Coolant Flush (45K) - 2 to 3 years • Spark Plug replacement/Tune Up (45K) - same • PTU (30K) - same • RDU (30K - same time as PTU) - same • I have a catch can on mine - I have the same JLT catch can

@Przemo I replaced those fasteners on my 2017 Sport and after a few months the rattle was back.

Those vulnerabilities exist for all Ford models, and all other manufactures - some have included dual injection for the GDI carbon issue, revised spark plugs, and coil-over-plugs.

Having done the replacement myself, your comment makes me think that you haven't tried what you're suggesting.

2008 in the subject line and posted in the 3.5L section.

Time for some diagnostics - based on the sparse info provided best do a compression test - a blown head gasket could cause over-pressurization of the coolant system and expel the coolant.

It's really difficult, isn't it.

Who would have guessed that one day your Social Security would be at risk?

Opens at home on my iMac with Firefox.

I too can't access that link - Windows Edge browser at work. Active noise canceling retrofit - Printable Version

Please add your Model & Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

112K and no carbon issues on the valves or piston crowns when I looked at around 106K miles. After all my indecision I bought a Catch-can and its working well.

Posted August 28, 2019

OK, tell us what's needed to correct this issue.

Quite likely you added it to your profile in the correct location, BUT the forum has a long outstanding issue with that not displaying, hence the request to add it to your signature. Settings - Ford Edge Forum

Please add your Model & Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Welcome. It sounds more like windshield installer incompetence, which I've experienced a number of times. You could take it to any place like AutoZone and they'll read and clear the codes for you - report back what codes so that we'll know if they're related to the windshield.

Welcome. What specifically scares you about the "EcoBoost" ? - Many Honda's and other brands use turbo chargers these days, and likewise direct fuel injection. BTW the Fuel Pump and EcoBoost aren't really related.

Did you buy OEM replacement parts? What's the part numbers of the ones you're using? How about a photo showing which joints you're having trouble with.

What are you using to read codes? - I ask because I've got first hand experience of other readers coming up with nothing while FORScan Lite did find codes.