unca waldo

I'm obviously coming into this discussion very late, but for those whom this is pertinent, I can offer my two cents worth, based on personal experience. I own a 2015 Titanium with the 2.0 EcoBoost, and my sister bout a 2016 Titanium with the 3.5. The 2.0 in mine provides an amazing amount of power for a four cylinder engine. Even though I knew it was turbocharged, I was still surprised by the performance it gave me. I've made numerous drives between Los Angeles and Phoenix, and can run for hours on end, at 80+, without the slightest problem. If I need to accelerate, I push the loud pedal and there's plenty of power. At 80+ MPH, the fuel mileage isn't anything to write home about, but 24+ MPG is nothing to sneeze at either. The Edge Titanium is quiet, smooth and after 6-7 hours on the road, I don't climb out, feeling like I've been trapped in a 55 gallon oil drum. My only "complaint", if it could be called that, is the 2.0 clatters like an old John Deere tractor at idle. Apparently it's the result of the direct Injection system... Oh well. I don't notice any clatter from my sister's 3.5. As for my sister's 3.5, everything about it, as far as ride etc, is virtually identical to my 2.0, with the exception of performance. It's not bad, but it is different. While the 2.0 in my Edge feels "peaky", the 3.5 feels smoother in its power delivery. It seems to have a bit better low end punch at part throttle, but my 2.0 will run away from hers, if I stick my foot into it. I have noticed, when I start pulling hills in my 2.0, the trans downshifts more quickly than my sister's. This spools the turbos up, and fuel mileage drops like a rock. Overall, I think if I drove mine, then hers, from L.A. to Phoenix and back, I'd be very happy with either one. Both are exceptionally comfortable and quiet, and get the job done with little to no fuss. I'm due for a new ride soon...my current car is 12 years old... and I'm seriously looking at the Edge Sport, or perhaps waiting for the Edge ST, if that ever actually happens.

Prior to having the booster replaced, I found I could mitigate the hypersensitivity of the brakes, particularly when they were cold, by riding them lightly, for a short distance, in order to build some heat into the pads and rotors. It seemed to help a bit. It was a pain in the okole, but it was better than slamming passengers against their seatbelts.

It's made this racket since we bought it, it's been in for service regularly and no mention of low oil levels have been mentioned. The engine cover is in place, but it could very likely be the high pressure injectors clattering. This is the first car I've owned with direct injection, so I'll see if I camn isolate the noise to the top end of the engine. The noises don't seem to affect the performance, so maybe it's just a normal engine sound. Thanks for the ideas... I'll definitely check both possible sources, just to make sure.

We've had our Edge Titanium now for not quite a year, and I must say, of all the vehicles I've owned over my lifetime, it is the smoothest, most pleasant car/SUV/crossover/whatever I've driven. Great power for the vehicle/engine combination (2.0 Eco-boost in a fairly large vehicle). The one thing that kind bugs me is... from the outside, it sounds like a frickin' tractor! Inside, it's quiet... outside, it's like sitting next to an idling John Deere... certainly not in keeping with a almost, near luxury, interstate cruiser. I checked for leaks, like maybe a noisy waterpump, or loose tin, anything that might make such a noise... no joy, can find anything. Any thoughts, or am I just being over-sensitive? Maybe I just need to turn m y hearing aids down...

I like wheel/tire combinations that sit even with the fender openings... tires sticking out beyond the fenders look lame. Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong.

Got my Edge back today... what a difference! No more lurching to a stop, passengers aren't suffering whiplash just because I tried to slow at a Stop Sign.

Several months ago, I asked if anyone had been experiencing "grabby" brakes on their Edge... ours is a 2015 Titanium. Well, today, the dealer advised me they were replacing the brake booster, pursuant to Technical Service Bulletin #SSM 45857 and NHTSA #10081005. I'd researched the issue and supplied the service department at the dealership with the information. To be honest, the dealer was NOT trying to blow me off... but having the information, certainly helped showing them I was an educated customer. If anyone else is having these same issues, you might approach the dealership with this information... it certainly made getting the proper repairs made in my case.

So, if I understand it correctly, Ford engineers designed into the system, a set-up that advances timing to the point pre-ignition becomes a factor, then uses that information to set the engine parameters. As a result, the engine computer will compensate for lower octane by backing down the "base" timing, right. If that is the case, wouldn't it hold true that by using the higher octane fuels, the computer will set the "base" timing at a more advanced state and "listen", then compensate when it detects knock? If true, the engine computer is allowing the motor to run with more advance, producing more power and better economy... or am I missing something?

Well, we've had our Edge Titanium 2.0 for six months now and we're still pleased with the performance. I'm still amazed that a 2 liter engine can drag around such a large vehicle with such ease. Fuel mileage isn't what I'd hoped for, averaging 18.5 to 19 MPG, but that almost exclusively city driving. We'll be driving to Arizona in a month or so, and I'll be interested to see what it'll get on a long, freeway drive, about 800 miles round-trip.

I agree about adding a catch can, though on a turbocharged motor, it's a bit more complicated than installing one on a N/A engine... you've got a pressurized intake tract as opposed to one drawing a vacuum. The Direct Fuel Injection MAY aid in economy, but creates a whole host of other issues, like carbon build-up on the valves and such. I'll admit, I'm not well versed on these heavily computer controlled engines, however I find it hard to wrap my mind around a manufacturer WANTING to induce pre-ignition, just so it can be measured and alter the engine parameters in order to compensate, to stop what it induced to begin with! What exactly would be the point?

Relatively speaking, an engine design for boosted applications will last as long a N/A engine, provided it's maintained religiously, using high quality components and lubricants. Going cheap, particularly on motor oil, it a great way to shorten the engine's life. I'm old school, so whether the manual calls for it or not, I've always used premium grade, synthetic motor oils and filters. The synthetic oils are less prone to "coking" up the turbo. Another practice I've always followed is to idle the engine for approximately 30 seconds before shutting it off. That allows the turbo to spool down, while maintaining a flow of "cool" oil to the bearings. It may not be necessary, but it's cheap insurance. Some might say it's a waste, but I use 91 octane fuel to prevent any chance of pre-ignition. Boosted engines are particularly prone to "knock" due to their high compression. You may not hear it, but pre-ignition will occur before the sensors in the engine retard timing, or whatever these engines do. The problem is, the damage caused by pre-ignition is cumulative, and if allowed to continue, WILL punch a hole in something... usually a piston... at some point. The use of higher octane fuel minimizes this issue. Prior to owning this Edge, I'd had a turbocharged Buick GN... and though I drove it like I stole it, I never had any problems related to the engine. I know the GN was "old" technology, but how I maintained it still holds true today.

I know I probably represent a very small minority but, I end up replacing tires long before the tread is worn... the tires on my cars generally dry rot. I have an '07 Magnum, with just under 30,000 miles on it and have had to swap out tires twice.

I'm sure this is a hassle virtually everyone here, who's ever waxed their ride, has had to deal with. It doesn't seem to matter how careful I am, I still get some wax on the textured areas and it's a pain in the okole to clean it out. I finally had a "DUH" moment and realized, it'd much easier, and ultimately quicker, to just mask the panels off. I got a roll of blue painter's tape, ran it along all the edges next to the paint and waxed away. After buffing the residue off, I pulled the tape and "VIOLA", no ugly white blotches! Now, this is probably obvious to most folks here, but for the few who, like me, are a little slow, that's my tip.

First car was a 1949 Chevy 2dr "slope" (fastback)... 235 6 cylinder, split exhaust manifold and a "Three on the Tree". It was the quintessential, mid 60's So Cal lowrider... dark blue metallic paint, white '64 Impala Super Sport interior, cut down steering column with a late '50's Oldsmobile wheel. Deep reversed, 14", Astro Supremes with 1" white walls. "Bellflowers" (side pipes)... Chromed or re-chromed everything not welded to the car. And, last but not least, an 8-track tape player with "Reverb"! GAWD, I wish I could go back in time... had good times "bumpin'" on Atlantic Ave in Northtown.

I had a similar "smell" in another car I owned, and after much chasing around, finally found that excessive condensation had pooled in the air conditioning plenum. Over time, it went rank and stunk up the car badly whenever I ran either the air or heat. The dealer advised that before ripping the entire plenum out of the car, cleaning or replacing it, running the ventilation system on full, bringing in fresh air ... no air conditioning or heat... in order to hopefully dry the system out. I was told this happens a lot when folks run their vent system in recycle, which draws air from within the cabin, puts it through the cooling or heating coils and returns it to the cabin. The problems lies in that the humidity in the air, isn't removed as efficiently as when fresh, outside air is brought in. I followed through on the suggestion, the smell eventually went away and it hasn't returned. Now, I never put my system on recycle... Just a thought...

There are advantages and disadvantages regarding wheels, regardless of which way you go. One advantage of factory wheels is that they are almost always forged, as opposed to cast and machined. A forged wheel is much stronger than a cast wheel... and virtually always lighter. Aftermarket forged wheels are readily available, however the cost approaches that of a factory wheel. Over time, the heavier wheels will take their toll on suspension components, brakes and such. And because they're heavier, your fuel mileage may go down. All this being said, there's nothing "wrong" with a good set of aftermarket, cast wheels... it's just that comparing them to factory wheels is like comparing apples to oranges In the end, if road conditions are such, that damaged wheels are a constant threat, picking up a set of aftermarket wheels may very well save you $$$'s... and you can save the nice, factory forged wheels, for when you want to show off your ride. Just my two cents worth... adjusted for inflation.

I actually use a dedicated shop-vac to vacuum the water out of crevices and such. When I used a blower, it seemed to just push the water around and deeper into the trim around windows, lights and mirrors... within just a few minutes, I'd have to go back and wipe away the little stream of water running down the sides of the car. In order to prevent scratches, I wrap a small towel around the end of the nozzle.

Sounds like you may have a small leak in the vacuum booster or line leading to it. A leak will allow the vacuum to bleed off and when you start the car, it's re-established and your brakes operate normally. it may just be when the technician was reattaching the vacuum line, he didn't get it fully seated. As long as it doesn't rupture or fall off, you should be Okay, but have it checked ASAP.

I have cleaned my engine with Simple Green, followed by a thorough "misting" of water to rinse it. Rather than using compressed air, which could potentially force water into electrical connections, I used my shop vac to remove the majority of the pooled up rinse water, followed by toweling. Finally, I started the engine to evaporate the remainder of any residual moisture. Years ago, I found out the hard way, to NEVER use Simple Green on a hot or even warm engine... it dried immediately, leaving stains and a chalky look that was impossible to remove.

Back in the day, we used Bonami Cleanser... it contains an abrasive that's much less aggressive than that found in most other cleansers like Comet. You might also try LimeAway... it's available at most supermarkets and is generally used to remove mineral deposits from shower doors, faucets and such. I used it on my boat to remove water spots that had been baked on in the Arizona sun. Be careful around your painted surfaces... it WILL remove all t he wax. I just put it on a terrycloth towel, then wiped the glass down, a small section at a time, then used regular glass cleaner to remove the residue... then moved on to the next section.

Whatever "catch can" you decide on, make sure it has sufficient baffling and some type of stainless "wool" inside. There are some really cheap cans on the market that are nothing more than trick looking, empty containers... designed to look cool, but don't function as advertised. They allow 99.9% of the blow-by fumes to pass straight through and on, into the intake. The baffling and "wool" gives the suspended oil fumes something to condense on, then drain to the bottom of the container. Make sure to mount the can where it is easily accessible, you'll want to empty the can at each oil change... depending on your style of driving, it's surprising how much oil can collect in the container. There's a company called Billet Tech that makes a very good catch can, but they specialize in the Chrysler LX platform. The catch can will work on any vehicle, but unless you can adapt their mounting bracket, you'll have to design and fabricate one of your own. Cheaping out on a can is a waste... with a catch can, you get what you pay for.

Guess it would've been helpful to include a little more info... There are a little over 5,000 miles on it. The problem seems to crop up if the car has been sitting for several hours, or overnight, though it doesn't happen everytime. The only way I've been able to get the trans to "release" is to slow down, sometimes almost to a complete stop. BTW, I've only noticed it occurring when I'm using very light throttle. Once the trans "releases", it then operates normally... until the next time, whenever that might be. As I said, it's intermittent and I haven't been able to see any rhyme or reason to it.

I seem to be having an intermittent issue with the transmission in my '15 Edge Titanium, 2.0 EcoBoost. On occasion, seemingly when the vehicle hasn't been driven for a bit, the trans "hangs" in 1st gear. It won't upshift or downshift, until it suddenly seems to "release" and begins functioning normally. From that point on, there's no problem with it shifting. I don't know if this is an "idiosyncrasy" with this transmission, or if there's a more serious problem. Because it's so intermittent, I'm positive the service folks will say... truthfully... they couldn't reproduce the problem. Has anyone here had a similar experience... and, if so, was it repaired? or, is this something I'll just have to deal with? Thanks for any thoughts...

Thanks for this info.... my 2015 has the most overly sensitive brakes of ANY vehicle I've ever driven. At low speeds, it's as if the brake pedal is an ON/OFF switch, no modulation at all. When I took it in for it's first service and explained the issue, the Service Writer told me he'd never heard of such a problem and that I "just needed to get used to a new car"! Next time I go back, I'll advise him, he "needs to become familiar with the product he's servicing".

I "P-shopped" a body color grill onto a '16 Edge, however I can't quite figure out how to copy and paste the image into this response. I'll post it up on FEWW's Facebook page, so you can see what it looks like. Not knowing what color yours is, I just did a screen grab of a red Edge. Hope it helps...