chefduane

And one could argue that the water pump placement is a design issue and not a maintenance issue. If a water pump never failed then maintenance of it is irrelevant. But when one does fail, the internal design becomes a SIGNIFICANT issue. Probably just semantics anyway.

Success!! The ELM327 adapter came and I ran the Backup Camera Recalibration procedure (there's a utoob vid out there on exactly how to do it) and my gridlines are back!! Yay! Thanks for all the help guys!! I'll try not to be tempted to start futzing with other stuff with Forscan!

I think you're right about that. I'm not going to try to upgrade. I did get notice that my ELM327 OBDII will be delivered today. When I get it I'm going to try do a camera recalibration and hope to restore the gridlines. I'll post my results.

Omar, man, your posts have been really helpful. Thanks much. I did check the MFT info via system settings in the vehicle and from your post ^ I determined this info for my vehicle: CCPU: 15128 3.8 SyncGen2_3.08:15128.EA.10_Product Released October 02 2015 (Compatible up to A8, B8 & F6 SD Cards) Rev 4 (Patched) latest Nav Version (5.67.6) Released September 2015 Per the link you provided there is one other later version 16180 Sync Gen2_3.10.16180 Released November 2016. The ford.owner.site does not list an update available for my VIN so 15128 3.08 is what I'm staying with. Thanks again for the info. Candurin: I ordered the EML327 reader you recommended. Should be here on Friday and I will address my gridline issue. May start doing some customization stuff if I get brave! Man, I love this group!

Ah, yes. I think I might be confused. Yes, my Edge does have MFT and I am on v2.3 (per the Ford Owner site). Other than the backup gridlines everything is functioning fine now. Once I determine which ELM327 wired USB device I need to get I intend to go into Forscan (I have already downloaded the latest version) and address that. Thanks for the clarification.

Hmmm... In reading all the posts so far what I am perceiving is that doing an upgrade from v2.x to 3.0 provides little additional functionality and a lot of headache with bugs, glitches, and general irregularities. I'm sure there must be some back-end fixes that a user does not see, but my LTD w/ version 2.3 seems to be performing just fine (other than the reverse cam grid lines disappearing) so... what incentives might there be for me to upgrade? Maybe I have a case of 'leave well enough alone.'

Yes, I would like to find one that has a wired USB connection so I can connect it to my wife's laptop.

Omar, thanks for the info here. Really helpful. What ELM327 device do you use or suggest? I was just on the Forscan site and they stated that some of the ELM327 devices on like Ebay and Amazon are clones and don't support the full functionality of Forscan. Do you have a particular one that you use and might recommend?

I assume that it is enabled in the camera settings in MFT. I mean, I assume it was when it was working ok and I did nothing to change that. Might MFT just decide one day to disable gridlines? I'll check it tho. What do you mean my 'calibrate the camera'? The camera function is working fine but the gridlines have disappeared. I don't have a ForScan adapter however I know they are reasonably cheap. If it really gets irritating I might consider it but for now its now that big a deal. Thanks for the info.

The gridlines on my '11 LTD disappeared about 4 months ago. Just up and went one day. Camera still functions fine, the lines just went away, Tried a few things to fix it but nothing has worked. I'm living with it as its really not that big a deal and I certainly don't need a $1200 repair bill from the dealer just to get gridlines back.

Enigma, a reasonable and logical question. My last 2 Explorers were 4WD and I really like 4WD. Here in NTX we get some nasty gully washers and an ice storm or two per season. Also, we go to East Tennessee sometimes for the holidays and it is nice to have the 4WD. Those are a few of the reasons I opted for AWD on the Edge - while I know it is nothing near 4WD, AWD gives/gave me a somewhat better feeling of surefootedness in bad weather and questionable road conditions. That said, if I had it to do over again (in deciding to buy an AWD Edge) I might reconsider getting the AWD due to the issues with the PTU. Knock wood, my PTU has not been a problem in 88k miles so far. And I change the gear oil religiously at 20k mile intervals with full synth (and I think that has a lot to do with not having any issues) but I know that POSSIBLY at any time it could develop a leak or outright failure and be a $4k problem. That, I do not need. I've had a number of FWD cars through the years and known them to be pretty reliable and tough. The transverse mounted FWD 6 cylinder configuration has proven itself to be a winner. And if driven properly, can be sure footed on ice/snowy/etc roads. When/If I do trade/sell this current Edge it certainly will be a Limited (I like the bells, whistles, and amenities) but I will pause to consider if I want to buy an AWD again. If Ford could figure out how to make the PTU more reliable and robust there would be no reason for pause but as it stands today with the current design of the PTU, I may not buy another AWD. Or I might just buy a darned Subaru Ascent Limited w/ their Symmetrical AWD System and not have to worry about it ever again.

I am also willing to trade my strips for racks if anyone is interested. My word is good here and I would think that anyone else's would be also. Unless you are a real putz!

Nice spy post. I just don't like the high mounted 'eyebrow' rear tail lights. I like the gen 1-1.5 rear tail light configuration much more. Front end looks great tho.

Well you know, I suppose I don't have to actually remove the emblem. I just figured it would be easier to remove it and plasti it then re mount it. I've watched a few vids on removing it and it doesn't look that difficult so that's why I decided to do it that way. But in seeing how easily plasti-dip is removed I may re-think removing the badge. hmmm.... It would require masking off the rear hatch but I suppose that's not that difficult to do. I do think that I will use the plasti-dip glossifier however. The Tux Black really looks great after being washed and waxed and I'm thinking that a round oval of flat black might detract from that look. Thanks for responding!

Roots, thanks. That's the info I was looking for. I know that Gorilla makes a double sided spongy tape but wasn't completely comfortable in deciding to use it. I ordered a roll of the 3m VHB tape. Any advice on possibly needing a sealer or UV resistant top coat on plasti-dip? I'm thinking maybe not but as I mentioned, our Texas sun can beat the heck out of car finishes.

OK, thanks for the info but maybe a bit too in-depth for my question. I just need to know once I remove the emblem, will the existing adhesive tape be sufficient to stick it back on and keep it on. If not, I can find something that will. I just wanted to know if anyone had done this already.

I intend to remove the rear emblem from my '11 LTD (Gen 1.5) and plasti-dip it. The chrome ring around the emblem has pretty much peel off completely. I know how to get it removed and painted and all, but I have questions about placing it back on the hatch. I know it just sticks on with double sided tape but will removing it necessitate replacing the double sided adhesive? If so, what kind of tape/adhesive did you all use? If I just stick it back on will it be secure enough to STAY on? Also, I would like to use flat back plasti-dip. Does plasti-dip require putting a sealer over it? Our Texas sun can really beat the heck out of painted finishes and I am wondering of I should use a UV resistant sealer over the plasti-dip. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!

Now THAT would be a great trick!!

Shift pattern/driving style/shift pressure, whatever.... it shifts different after a new battery installation but will relearn the shift (insert favorite word here) and will smooth out relatively soon. Better?

Great lookin' ride! Re; Fog. I used to live in SF above the blue and windy sea, where the morning fog may chill the air. I didn't care.

Same thing happened to me when I replaced my battery. First thing was the selective system shutdown (that can be confusing if you've never experienced it) and then the battery died completely. After I replaced the battery the system had to re-learn my driving pattern (accell/decell) to reset the shift points. Took a while driving around town but it should smooth out after a while.

I put some little blue capsules I found in the garage into my tank once. Darn thing ran at high rev for 4 hours!! 4 hours!! My wife was very impressed.

I don't think they need to be 'made.' I think a spent .40 cal case will simply fit over the valve stem. Unfortunately, I own no .40 cal weapons. Why can't they make valve stems in .45, 9mm, or .38 Spc?

I HATE being low on gas. Anything less that 1/4 tank and I'm looking to fill up. Probably comes from living with my wife for 30 years. She waits until the car is sputtering before she gets gas. Drives me nuts!!

.. be interested to hear how big a job the bearings are and what the total cost is/was. I used the same rationale when I did my brakes - its fairly inexpensive just to go ahead and do new rotors with the pads and its really not that big a job to do. That way you benchmark the item(s) and know exactly what the maintenance intervals are.